THE LIBRARY

OF

THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA

PRESENTED BY

PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND
MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID

Gardening for Pleasure.

A GUIDE TO THE AMATEUR IN THE

FRUIT, VEGETABLE, AND FLOWER GARDEN,

WITH FULL DIRECTIONS FOR THE

GREENHOUSE, CONSERVATORY, AND WINDOW-GARDEN.

BY

PETER HENDERSON,

AUTHOB OP " GARDENING FOB PROFIT," AND "PRACTICAL PLOBICULTUBK,"

JEBSEY CITY HEIGHTS, N. J.

ILLUSTRATED.

NEW YORK:

ORANGE JUDD COMPANY,

751 BROADWAY.

1883.

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1875, by the

ORANGE JUDD COMPANY,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.

36 fr

•
I

CONTENTS.

Introduction 7

CHAPTER I.
Soil and Location 9

CHAPTER H.
Drainage 10

CHAPTER III.
Preparation of the Ground 13

CHAPTER IV.
Walks 14

CHAPTER V.
Manures 16

CHAPTER VI.
How to Use Concentrated Fertilizers 18

CHAPTER VH.
Special Fertilizers for Particular Plants 21

CHAPTER Vm.
The Lawn 22

CHAPTER IX.
Design for Garden 25

CHAPTER X.
Planting of Lawns and Flower-Beds 30

CHAPTER XI.
Fall, or Holland Bulbs 3g

CHAPTER XH.
Propagation of Plants by Seeds 39

CHAPTER Xm.
Propagation of Plants by Cuttings 43

CHAPTER XIV.
Propagating by Layering 45

CHAPTER XV.
About Graf ting and Budding 47

CHAPTER XVI.
How Grafting and Budding are Done 51

(3)

IV GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

CHAPTER XVII.

Treatment of Tropical Bulbs, Seeds, etc 57

CHAPTER XVHI.
The Potting of Plants 6°

CHAPTER XIX.

Winter Flowering Plants 62

CHAPTER XX.
Unhealthy Plants— The Remedy 67

CHAPTER
Plants Suited for Summer Decoration

CHAPTER

Hanging Baskets "^

CHAPTER XXm.
Window Gardening 75

CHAPTER XXIV.
Parlor Gardening, or the Cultivation of Plants in Rooms 77

CHAPTER XXV.
Wardian Cases, Ferneries, Jardinieres 82

CHAPTER XXVI.
Winter-Forcing the Lily of the Valley 84

CHAPTER XXVH.
Greenhouses Attached to Dwellings... 87

CHAPTER XXVIII.
A Detached Greenhouse or Grapery 90

CHAPTER XXIX.
Heating by Hot Water 95

CHAPTER XXX.
Greenhouse or Pits Without Artificial Heat 98

CHAPTER XXXI.
Combined Cellar and Greenhouse 99

CHAPTER XXX11.
Hot-Beds 102

CHAPTER XXXHI.
Shrubs, Climbers, and Trees — 104

CHAPTER XXXI V.
Hardy Herbaceous Perennials 107

CHAPTER XXXV.
Annual Flowering Plants 112

CHAPTER XXXVI.
Flowers which will Grow in the Shade 114

CHAPTER XXX VII.
Insects... ...115

CONTENTS. V

CHAPTER XXXVm.
Mildew 120

CHAPTER XXXIX.
FrozenPlants 121

CHAPTER XL.
Mulching 122

CHAPTER XLI.
Are Plants in Rooms Injurious to Health 124

CHAPTER XLH.
Shading 125

CHAPTER XLTTT,
The Law of Colors in Flowers 128

CHAPTER XLIV.
Pruning 133

CHAPTER XLV.
Hardy Grapes 133

CHAPTER XLVI.
Cold Grapery 144

CHAPTER XLVH.
The Hot-House or Forcing Grapery 150

CHAPTER XLVIIL
The Strawberry 153

CHAPTER XLIX.
Cottage-Gardening— A Digression 175

CHAPTER L.
The Vegetable Garden 177

CHAPTER LI.

Garden Implements 223

Monthly Calendar of Operations 234

INTRODUCTION.

I have endeavored in writing ( ' Gardening for Pleasure,"
to divest it, as far as I was competent to do so, of the
technical terms and phrases which professional gar-
deners use in writing or talking on matters relating to
horticulture ; and to use the plainest language at my
command in describing the simplest methods of culture.
Whether I have succeeded in making the subject as clear
as I have desired to do, those who read the work must
decide.

My aim in writing the book was to make it such as
would be useful to the occupant of a city lot, or to the
possessor of a few window plants, as well as to the owner
of a country residence that is fully appointed in all mat-
ters relating to the cultivation of flowers, fruits, and
vegetables. The necessity for such a book has been made
evident to me by the inquiries from hundreds of ama-
teurs in gardening ; inquiries to many of which neither
of my previous works, ("Gardening for Profit," or
"Practical Floriculture,") furnished proper replies ; the
one being written mainly for information of the vegetable
market gardener, and the other for the commercial florist.

PETER HENDERSON.

JEBSEY CITY, N. JM Oct., 1875.

(7)

Gardening for Pleasure,

CHAPTER I.

SOIL AND LOCATION.

It is rare in determining the site for a residence, that
the soil is taken into consideration, and in consequence,
we sometimes find that the garden surrounding the
house presents a barren appearance, that nothing can
remedy short of the placing a foot of good soil over the
whole surface. This condition is not so often due
to the natural poverty of the soil, as caused by grading
off the surface soil, or by filling up to the desired grade
with the material thrown out in excavating the cellars,
or other subsoil, clay, or gravelly material, and placing
these over the soil intended for the garden. This is
often done for the convenience of contractors, to the
great injury of the proprietor, without either being
aware of the bad results. As a good soil will tend more
than all else to give satisfactory results in garden opera-
tions, it is all important to secure it. When discretion
can be used in deciding on a location, one should be
chosen that has naturally a suitable soil, rather than to
attempt to make it so by carting a foot of good soil over
the bad, which would be found not only very expensive,
but in many situations, next to impracticable. I have
(9)

10 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE.

before said, in some of my writings on this subject, that
the soil best suited for all garden purposes, is what is
known as "sandy loam," not less than ten inches deep,
overlying a subsoil of sand or gravel. Such a soil
rarely requires drainage, is easier worked, and gives bet-
ter results than that known as " clayey loam," which
overlays a putty-like subsoil of blue or yellow clay,
which must be drained thoroughly before a seed is sown
or plant set out, or there will be no satisfactory reward
for the labor. The location, if choice can be made,
should be such as will allow the garden to slope gently,
(say one foot in a hundred), to the south or south-east,
and if protected by hills or timber to the north-west,
so much the better. If not protected naturally, a hedge
of Hemlock Spruce, or Norway Firs, planted on the
northern and western side of the site intended for the
garden, would be of great advantage. These evergreens
can be bought from 2 to 3 feet high, at from $15 to $25
per 100 ; and should be planted according to size, from 2
to 3 feet apart, making a cheap and ever improving screen
or fence, which may be trimmed to any required hight
or thickness.

CHAPTER II.

DRAINAGE.

As drainage will be in many instances indispensable to
success, I will briefly state a few of the simplest methods
that may be adopted, premising that it is utterly useless
to expect to cultivate any soil satisfactorily that does
not freely and rapidly carry off the surface water. An
expert in soils can determine almost to a certainty by
digging down two or three feet, whether or not a soil

DRAINAGE.

11

requires drainage, but the safest guide for the inexperi-
enced is to judge by the growing crops in his neighbor-
hood. If on a similar soil good crops of corn, pota-
toes, or hay, are found on undrain-
ed soil, then it is certain there is
no necessity to drain, for no matter
how cultivated, or how heavily ma-
nured land is, there can never be a
good crop raised in any season, if
the soil is water-logged. If the
place to be drained is of large ex-
tent, and the ground nearly level,
it will always be safer to call in the
services of an engineer to give the
proper levels and indicate the
necessary fall, which should never
be less than half a foot in the hundred, and if more can be
had, so much the better. In heavy, clayey soils, we
make our lateral drains three feet deep and fifteen feet
apart, where there is less clay in the subsoil, we make
them from twenty to thirty feet apart, and four feet
ieep. If stones are plenty on the ground, they may be
profitably used in filling up the excavated ditch to half
its depth, as shown in figure 1, and which is known as a
rubble drain, using the larger stones at the bottom, and

Fig. 2.— HORSE-SHOE DBAIN-TILE.

smaller at top, and covering over with inverted sods, to
keep the soil from being washed in among the stones,
and thus choking up the drain. But when they can be
obtained at reasonable price, the best and most durable
draining is that done by tiles. It makes but little dif-
ference whether the tile used is the round with collars,

12 GARDENING FOE PLEASURE.

or the horse-shoe ; we rather prefer the latter, particu-
larly if the bottom of the drain is " spongy ; " we then
use a board for the bottom of the drain, as shown in fig-
ure 2. This board is a common one of hemlock or
spruce, cut in four pieces ; it is ripped through the mid-
dle, and then these parts split in two, making boards
of five inches wide by half an inch in thickness, thus
making the common hemlock board stretch out to a
length of fifty feet. It is often a very troublesome mat-
ter to get the few drain tiles necessary to drain a small
garden, and in such cases an excellent and cheap substi-
tute can be had by using one of boards. Take ordinary
rough boards, pine, hemlock, or spruce, and cut them into
widths of three or four inches, nail them together so as to

Fig. 3. — TRIANGULAR BOARD DRAIN.

form a triangular pipe, as represented in figure 3, taking
care to " break the joints " in putting the lengths to-
gether; care must be taken that the boards are not
nailed together too closely, else they might swell so as to
prevent the water passing into the drain to be carried
off. These drains are usually set with a - flat side down,
but they will keep clear better, if put with a point down,
though it is more trouble to lay them. Drains made in
this way will last much longer than might be supposed.
Last season I came across some wooden drains that I
had put down over twenty years before, and they seemed
sound enough to last twenty years longer.

PREPARATION OF THE GROUND. 13

OHAPTEK III.

PREPARATION OF THE GROUND

. After draining, (if draining is necessary), comes the
preparation of the soil. Presuming that the ground
where the new garden is to be made is an open space,
clear of trees or other obstructions, there is no cultiva-
tion so cheap and yet so thorough, as plowing and har-
rowing. To do this properly, the ordinary plow should
be followed by the subsoil plow, stirring the subsoil up
about fifteen inches deep, so that the water will pass
through to the drains, natural or artificial, freely. After
the plow and subsoiler, follows the harrow, which should
be weighted, so that the teeth sink six inches into the
soil, in order to completely pulverize it. In Europe, it
would be considered sacrilege to use a plow or harrow in
the preparation of a private garden, and most of old-
country gardeners among us will stand aghast at such ad-
vice, but I have been through all parts of the work, and
am well satisfied, from no limited practice, that plowing
and harrowing will not only do the work at one-fourth
of the cost, but in a better manner than the ordinary
digging or trenching with the spade. Let me here cau-
tion that great care be taken never to plow, dig, harrow,
rake, or hoe ground when wet ; if work must be done,
pull out weeds, or set plants, if you will, but never, under
any circumstances, stir the soil in preparation for a crop
until it is dry enough not to clog. If stirred while wet,
the particles stick together, and the crop is not only in-
jured for the season, but in some soils the bad effects
show for years.

14 GARDENING FOE PLEASURE.

CHAPTEE IV.

WALKS.

It is no unusual thing to see the owner of a neat cot-
tage make himself perfectly ridiculous by the way in
which he lays out the walk from the street to his front
door. There is a prevailing opinion that such walks
should be curved ones, and gentlemen, often otherwise
shrewd and intelligent, place themselves without question
in the hands of some self-styled " garden architect,"
and thus manage to make themselves the laughing stock
of a neighborhood. There was a well marked instance
of this in a garden occupying a block in almost the cen-
ter of Jersey City, where a man pretending to have a full
knowledge of the subject, induced the proprietor to have
a walk running about one hundred yards from the street
to the house, made so curved that its length was nearly
twice that distance. It was hard on the butcher's and
grocer's boys, and it was said that even book-peddlers and
sewing-machine agents, and lightning-rod men, looked
ruefully at it and left him in peace. Some old authority
on this subject says, that there " never should be any
deviation from a straight line unless from some real or
apparent cause." So if curved lines are insisted on, a
tree, rock, or building must be placed at the bend as a
reason for going around such obstacles. It will be evi-
dent to any one who reflects upon the matter, that a
curved walk running a distance of a hundred yards or so
from the street to the house, across an un plan ted lawn,
is utterly absurd. All short foot- walks from the street to
the house should be straight, entering from the street at
as near right angles as possible, and leading direct to the
front door. There should be no necessity for a carriage
road to the front entrance of a house, unless it is distant

WALKS.

15

at least 100 feet from the street, and then a drive is best
made by having an entrance at each side of the lot, as
given in figure 4, presuming that the width of the
ground is 500 feet, and the distance from street to the
front door is 150 feet. Even here the foot-walk should
be direct. The width of the roads or walks must be
governed by the extent of the grounds. For carriage-
way the width should not be less than ten feet, and for
foot-walks, five feet. Nothing is more annoying than to
have a shower-bath in early morning from the dew from

I HOUSE 1

500 Ft

FRONT

STREET

Fig. 4. — APPROACH TO A HOUSE — DRIVE AND PATH.

an overhanging branch in your narrow walk. We often
see gardens of considerable pretentions where the walks
are not more than three feet wide, where it is utterly im-
possible for two persons to walk abreast without getting
their dresses torn or faces scratched by overhanging
branches. Besides, it argues a narrowness in the
owner, particularly if the grounds are at all extensive,
and looks as if he were determined to cultivate every
available foot of land. Of course it is another matter
when the garden plot is limited to the width of a city
lot, (20 or 25 feet) ; then such economy of space is per-
fectly excusable. The character of the soil must in a
great measure determine the manner of making the road.
Every one must have noticed that after a heavy rain, un-
paved streets in some districts remain next to impassable
for many hours, while in others, after the same amount

16 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE.

of rain, the roads will seem firm and comparatively dry.
In the former all carriage roads, and even foot-walks, to
have any satisfaction from them, should have their founda-
tions formed something like that shown in figure 5 ; this
gives thorough drainage for the water at each side, and a
depth of from one foot at center to two feet on sides of
rubble stone and gravel to form the bed of the road or
walk ; but in sandy or gravelly soils, through which the

Fig. 5.— SECTION OP BOAD WITH DRAIN EACH SIDE.

water passes quickly, no such expense is necessary, as an
equally good road may be made by five . or six inches of
gravel. In foot-walks on such soils, I have found that
three or four inches of gravel mixed with one fourth its
bulk of cement to "bind," when watered and well rolled,
makes an excellent smooth walk, and one in which, be-
cause of its hardness, there is no trouble with weeds.

CHAPTER V.

MANURES.

Whether one wishes to cultivate vegetables, fruits, or
flowers, all soils, to give good results, sooner or later need
manure ; this is more particularly the case with what are
known as " vegetables," these being usually quick grow-
ing, succulent plants. No "fertilizer" answers so well
for all purposes as thoroughly decayed stable manure,
whether from horse or cow stable, it makes but little dif-
ference, except that that from the horse stables is best
suited for heavy soils, while that from the cow-stables

MANUKES. 17

suits best for light soils. The quantity used for vegeta-
bles should not be less than would cover the whole sur-
face of the ground at least three inches deep, and it
should be mixed with the soil as thoroughly as possible
by plowing or spading. In the absence of stable manure,
recourse must be had to concentrated fertilizers, the best
of which are Peruvian guano and bone dust. Here a word
of caution is necessary as to the quantity to be used ; as
their fertilizing qualities are concentrated, instead of
being diffused as in stable manure ; if either guano or
bone dust, or fertilizers of similar character, come di-
rectly in contact in large quantities, with the roots of
plants, it injures them beyond remedy, hence in the use
of these the necessity for caution. In our large field
practice in vegetable growing, we use about 2,000 Ibs.
per acre of guano, sowing it on the surface of the ground
after plowing, and then harrowing it in so as to mix it
with the soil to the depth of five or six inches. Now, as
there are 4,840 square yards in an acre, it will be seen that
something more than half a pound of guano or bone dust
is required for every square yard of surface to be fertilized.
This quantity will just nicely cover the surface, about as
thick as the sand on a sanded floor ; after spreading on
the dug surface, it should be mixed with the soil with a
spading fork or long-toothed rake to the depth of five or
six inches, bearing in mind that the more thoroughly it
is mixed with the soil the better will be the result. If
used in "hills" for corn, tomatoes, melons, etc., the
same proportionate quantity is to be applied, and the
mixing must be equally thorough.

18 GARDENING FOE PLEASURE.

CHAPTER VI.

HOW TO USE CONCENTRATED FERTILIZERS.

Whatever kind of concentrated fertilizer may be used,
I find it well repays the labor to prepare it in the follow-
ing manner: to every bushel of fertilizer, add three bush-
els of either leaf -mold (from the woods), well pulverized
muck, sweepings from a paved street, or — in the absence
of either of the above — common garden soil. In every
case the material employed must be as dry as it is possi-
ble to procure it. "When guano is used, be careful to
have it thoroughly pulverized and broken up before mix-
ing with the other ingredients. The fertilizer must be
well mixed with the soil or mold used by turning it at
least twice. This mixing should be done in winter, or
early spring, and the material packed away in barrels
in a dry place for at least a month before using it. The
main object of this operation is for the better separation
and division of the fertilizer, so that when applied, it
can be more regularly distributed over the land ; besides
this, no doubt the fertilizing qualities of the leaf -mold
or other substance are developed by this treatment. Ex-
periment has shown that this method of using concentra-
ted fertilizers of nearly all kinds, materially increases
their value. One of the most successful market-garden-
ers in our neighborhood, has adopted this method for
years, and in extensive experiments with different kinds
of fertilizers, with and without being mixed, finds a sav-
ing of quite one-third in quantity in thus treating them.
He finds that 1,200 Ibs. of guano, mixed with two tons
of garden soil, and sown over the surface after plowing,
and then harrowed in, is equal in effect to 2,000 Ibs.
of guano used without mixing.

HOW TO USE COKCEtfTKATED FEETILIZEES. 19

We have ourselves experimented with guano, blood
and bone, and bone flour, with nearly like results, and as
a top dressing for grass, we think the advantage of mix-
ing is even more marked. When fertilizers are applied
to* corn, potatoes, tomatoes, etc., in hills or drills, it is
not only more economical to mix in this manner, but
much safer in inexperienced hands ; for when any strong
fertilizer is used pure, injury is often done to the roots
by their coming in contact with it in too great quantity
in the raw state, owing to imperfect mixing in the hill
or drill, while, if composted as advised above, the danger
is much less. We are often asked as to the quantity to
be applied to different garden crops. Taking guano as
a basis, we would recommend for all vegetable crops, if
earliness and good quality are desired, the use of not less
than 1,200 Ibs. per acre, (an acre contains 4,840 square
yards, and cultivators for private use can easily estimate
from this the quantity they require for any area), mixed
with two tons of either of the materials recommended.
This quantity is used broadcast by sowing on the ground
after plowing, and deeply and thoroughly harrowing in,
or if in small gardens, forked in lightly with the prongs
of a garden fork or long toothed steel rake. When ap-
plied in hills or drills, from 100 to 300 Ibs. should be
used to the acre, according to the distance of these apart,
mixing with soil, etc. , as already directed.

In regard to which of the fertilizers is most desirable,
we find but little difference, provided each is pure. Gu-
ano at $80 per ton, is relatively as cheap as blood and
bone fertilizer at $65 ; bone flour at $50, or superphos-
phate at $40 ; for in the lower priced articles we find we
are obliged to increase the quantity to obtain the same
results, so that the cost is nearly alike whichever be
used. The all important point is the purity of the arti-
cle, a matter that few working farmers or gardeners ever
attempt to decide except by the results in culture, hence

20 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

we advise each one who has been using a fertilizer that
has proved satisfactory, to experiment but lightly with
anot'^r until the new article has proved its merits. The
competition in the manufacture of articles so much in
use as fertilizers, has in many instances forced down
prices below t_-j point at which they can be produced in
a pure state, hence the widespread adulteration with
" salt cake," "plaster," and other articles utterly worth-
less but to make weight. Next in meanness to the quack
that extracts money from a poor consumptive for his vile
nostrums, is the man who compels the poor farmer or
gardener,, may be a thousand miles away struggling for
an existence, to pay freight on the sand mixed with his
guano, or the plaster in his bone dust. In this relation
I am reminded of a retribution that fell on the " Sands
of Life man," who figured so conspicuously a few years
ago in New York. The advertisement of this philan-
thropic gentleman, it will be remembered, was that " A
retired clergyman whose Sands of Life had nearly run
out," would for a consideration tell how the " running
out " could be stopped in others. A kind hearted fellow
in Illinois, deeply sympathizing with the old gentleman
on account of his loss of " sand," sent him by express —
but forgot to prepay — a thousand pounds of the article !
It is reported that the ' ' retired clergyman " on opening
the cask, expressed himself in a manner not only ungrate-
ful, but utterly unclerical. We counsel no vengeance,
but if some of these sand-mixing guano men could have
the sand sifted out by their victims with compound in-
terest added, and returned to them under the fostering
care of an express company, it would be but even handed
justice,

SPECIAL FERTILIZERS FOR PARTICULAR PLANTS. 21

CHAPTER VII.

SPECIAL FERTILIZERS FOR PARTICULAR PLANTS.

A man called at my office a few years ago with some
dozen bottles as samples of special manures, indispensa-
ble, lie said, as fertilizers for certain kinds of plants.
He had those with him that he claimed to be specially
prepared for cabbage, corn, potatoes, wheat, grass, lawns,
beets, etc. , etc. He even invaded Flora's realm, and de-
clared that his nostrum for roses was a specific for any
languid capers of this sometimes rather coquettish queen
of flowers. His own arguments, which were rather
plausible and glibly uttered, were backed up by numer-
ous certificates — authentic, I have no doubt — where his
"potato fertilizer" had worked wonders with some,
with others his f ' corn manure " had been of undoubted
benefit, and so on all through the list.

Now, I have no reason to say that the vender of these
fertilizers was a quack, except the broad fact, gathered
from an experience of thirty years, that has shown me
that it makes but little difference with what fertilizer a
crop is treated, provided the soil is properly pulverized
and the fertilizer applied in proper proportions according
to its strength. Had all his separate kinds of fertilizers
been taken from the same bag, (provided that bag coa-
tained a good article of bone-dust or guano), the resutt
to his patrons would have been the same, whether he
had used it on one or all of the crops that he had special
prescriptions for.

There are few market gardeners in the vicinity of New
York but who have at one time or another been obliged
to take anything they could get for fertilizing purposes,
and the difference has never been perceptible when ma-
nure from horse stables or cow stables has been applied,

22 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

or when $100 per acre has been expended for bone-dust
or Peruvian guano, and these all used on a dozen dif-
ferent crops without any discrimination. Agricultural
chemistry may be all very well in some respects, but if
it gets down to such hair-splitting niceties as to analyze
scores of special plants, and tell us that we must feed
each with only just such food as the analysis show it to be
composed of, then our common sense, born of practical
experience, must scout and ridicule such nonsense.

Plants, like animals, are not so much kept in good
health by the special kind of food given as by the proper
quantity and conditions surrounding the individual when
the food is received, and what proper temperature and
pulverization of soil may be to the plant, air and exercise
and also proper temperature are the corresponding con-
ditions necessary for healthy animal life. Who will say
that the beef -fed English laborer is in any way the phys-
ical superior of the Irishman or Scotchman whose daily
food has been only potatoes and oat-meal ? You get
usually fine and nearly equal development in each case,
but it is a condition due to a natural use of the muscles
in the open air in a congenial climate rather than to
anything special in the food. It would be quite as rea-
sonable to tell us that a special food, chemically consid-
ered, is necessary for each class of our domestic animals
as for our domestic plants, and none but the veriest
charlatan or ignoramus will do either.

CHAPTER VIIL

THE LAWN.

Since the introduction of the lawn-mowers, the keep-
ing of the lawn has been so simplified that no suburban
residence is complete without one, and there is now no

THE LAWN. 23

more excuse for tall grass " going to hay" in the door
yard than there would be for cobwebs taking possession of
the rooms inside the dwelling. We occasionally see some
parsimonious individual, even now, who remembers that
in his grandfather's days, grass was allowed to grow for
the food of the "critters," and he leaves it for food for
his "critters" still. Though at the same time his furniture
inside, that nobody but himself ever sees, or has an op-
portunity to admire, for such men are not troubled with
friends, may have cost him $5,000 or $10,000. We have
two or three notable examples of this kind in my imme-
diate neighborhood, but it is gratifying to know that
such neighbors are not numerous, for the example of
the majority will soon shame them into decency. To
have a lawn in first rate condition, the ground must be
put in order in the way described under the heads of
te Draining" and " Preparation of the Soil," for if these
are necessary anywhere, they are still more necessary for
the lawn, the soil of which should be as thoroughly pul-
verized and enriched by manure, as any ground intended
for the cultivation of either vegetables or fruits.

Great care must be taken to have the surface of the
ground for the lawn, (unless a very large one), made
perfectly level, for if this is not done before the lawn
is sown, it cannot be altered but at great expense
and inconvenience. After the surface is made level
roughly, it should be further smoothed with the rake,
and all stones of any considerable size removed, so that
the surface will be smooth for the action of the lawn-
mower. Wherever the extent of the lawn does not ex-
ceed 2,500 square feet, and where sods can be obtained
from a suitable pasture near at hand without much cost,
the best way to make the lawn is to sod it, but before
doing so, the ground should be rolled or beaten down,
particularly if any portion of it has been filled in, so that
there may be no " settling " to form hollows or inequali-

24 GARDENING FOE PLEASURE.

ties. A convenient size of sod to lay down is 12 by 18
inches, and of a thickness of 2 inches, in laying see that
the edges are neatly laid together; and the whole firmly
beaten down with the back of a spade. If it is dry
weather when the work is done, it may be necessary to
thoroughly drench the newly-laid sod for a week or so
after planting, every other evening. When the lawn is
too extensive to be sodded, the following mixture of grass
seed may be used, whic]i we have found to make an ex-
cellent lawn :

8 quarts Rhode Island Bent Grass.

3 quarts Creeping Bent Grass.
10 quarts Red Top Grass.
10 quarts Kentucky Blue Grass.

1 quart White Clover.

This mixture is not indispensable to the formation of a
good lawn, though we believe it to be the best. Some of
the fine lawns seen at Newport, R. I., are composed al-
most entirely of Rhode Island Bent grass mixed with
about one-sixth of white clover, but the humidity of the
atmosphere there has no doubt more to do with the rich-
ness of the lawn than the variety of grass it is composed
of. I may here caution the use of spurious seed for this
purpose. It is no uncommon thing that either through
ignorance or short-sighted economy, (( hay-seed " is taken
direct from the hay-loft and sown to form the lawn. If
from good hay, the seed will be principally timothy and
red clover, and vain would be all the attempts to get a
smooth lawn from such a source. It would be about as
reasonable to expect figs from thistles. If the soil is rich,
and has been thoroughly prepared, three bushels per acre
will be sufficient, but if thin and poor, from four to five
bushels had better be sown. If sown in early spring, as
soon as the soil is dry enough to work, a good lawn will
be formed by midsummer the first year, if it has been

DESIGN FOR GARDEN. 25

mown regularly at intervals of eight or ten days. The
seed must be sown as evenly as possible, and for this rea-
son a calm day must be chosen, as a very slight wind will
throw the seed into heaps. After sowing, the ground
may be lightly harrowed if the surface is large, but if
not, give it an even raking, but in either case the ground
should be smoothed down with a roller or patted with a
spade, so to form a smooth surface to be mowed. Al-
though if a choice can be had, it is best to sow the lawn
seed in early spring, yet it can be sown nearly as profita-
bly in September, or in the more southerly states in Oc-
tober, or for that matter, even as late as May and June
in spring, only if so late, it is better to mix one quart of
oats to every bushel of grass-seed, that the oats may
shade and protect the young grass from the sun until it
has root enough to support itself. But if sown in March
or April, or in September or October, there is no need of
using the oats, as no injury will be done by the sun at
these seasons. To keep the lawn in proper condition, it
should be mowed over once every week if the weather is
moist, and not less than once in two weeks, even in dry
weather, for if the lawn has been properly made in the
first place, and " top dressed" with a good coat of well-
rotted manure in fall, and the rough raked off in spring,
the weather must be dry and hot indeed to prevent its
growth.

CHAPTEE IX.

DESIGN FOR GARDEN.

As this book is intended to comprehend all the wants
of a cottage or suburban garden, including flowers, fruits,
and vegetables, it would increase its size too much to

2

GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

200 Feet Front.
Fig. 6. — DESIGN FOB IAY1NG OUT GROUNDS.

DESIGK FOE GAKDEtf. 27

give a great variety of designs for the flower-garden. To
those that require such, some intelligent landscape gar-
dener should be consulted. Intelligent, I say, for nine
out of ten that pretend to be landscape gardeners are
not ; but consult a man able to draw a neat design, for
if he cannot do that he is not a very safe person to be
intrusted with the working out of the plan of another.
You are careful to ascertain that the architect for your
house is a man of education and intelligence before you
entrust yourself in his hands, but when it comes to de-
signing the lawn and flower-grounds, the veriest bog-
trotter, who styles himself a " landscaper," is too often
allowed to display his " art," and at the same time make
you ridiculous. Eest assured that if such a pretender
has not had ambition enough to become fairly well in-
structed, he is not likely to show much taste in design-
ing your grounds.

The design, (fig. 6), shows an area of 200 feet by 350,
or a plot of nearly two acres, about one-third of the
whole facing the street, is used for flower-garden and for
dwelling, the two-thirds in the rear for fruit and vegeta-
ble grounds. There is a point in this sketch, to which I
wish to call attention, as it is one too often lost sight of ;
the flower-garden and lawn face the street, while the fruit
and vegetable grounds are at the rear ; the view of these
from the street is shut out upon one side by a screen or
tall hedge of evergreens, H, and upon the other by a
curvilinear glass structure, G, which may be used either
as a grapery or a greenhouse. The walk, w, passes on
each side of the house to connect with other walks at the
rear ; the beds, F, may be planted in ribbon lines either
with flowering plants or those with brilliant and strongly
contrasting foliage. The flower-beds, F, each side of the
entrance near the front, may be made of any form that
may be preferred ; a simple circle planted as suggested
in the next chapter, will produce a good effect, and be

GARDENING FOE PLEASURE.

200 Feet Front.
Fig. 7.— DESIGN FOB GROUNDS WITH CABBIAGE-DEIVE.

DESIGN FOR GARDEN. 29

more easily cared for than beds of the style here given ;
most persons, where the floral ornamentation is, as in this
case, confined to a few effective masses, prefer to change
not only the manner of planting such beds each year, but
to alter their form occasionally. The unbroken area of
lawn at c is intended for a croquet ground. At the rear
of the house the central walk is spanned by a grape ar-
bor, G A, if one wishes the vines to afford shade, or a
simple trellis may run each side ; the borders next the
fence on each side and at the rear, (not shown in the
plan), may also be used for grapes, or will be convenient
for raspberries, currants, and other small fruits. The
large plots, v F, are for the main crops of vegetables and
fruits ; asparagus, rhubarb, strawberries, and such other
crops as remain year after year without being disturbed,
should be so placed at the outset as to be interfered with
as little as possible in the frequent working of the soil
necessary for other crops. A lot of this size will require
the labor of one man, whose time must be exclusively
devoted to the garden, and to nothing else, to keep it in
proper order. Such is the extent, and something near
the design of the grounds I use for such purposes. I
generally have selected one of my most active men to
take charge of it, and find he has plenty to do to do it
well. A second design (fig. 7) shows a lot of the same
dimensions, with a different arrangement, there being a
stable, s, and no rear entrance, it is necessary to provide
one from the front, and in order to secure a greater
breadth of lawn, the house is placed at one side of the
center of the grounds. The drive, D, in the design is made
to turn around a group of flower-beds of fanciful pattern,
but this may be replaced by a single circle, planted as
suggested in the next chapter, or by a group of ornamen-
tal evergreen or other shrubs. In this design the cro-
quet-ground is at c, and the grape arbor, G A, is used to
shut out the view of the vegetable gronnds from the street.

30 GARDENING FOE PLEASURE.

*

A row of closely planted evergreens at H serves to break
the force of the winds ; the suggestions as to the other
details in the preceding plan, (fig. 6), apply to this also.

CHAPTEK X.

PLANTING OF LAWNS AND FLOWER-BEDS.

The subject of lawn planting, including the proper
setting and grouping of trees and shrubs, and their most
effective disposal, is too extended for the scope of this
book. These matters belong to works upon landscape
gardening, and are ably treated in those by Downing,
Kemp, Weidenmann, Scott, and others. But the plant-
ing of flower-beds comes properly within our limits. The
old-fashioned mixed borders of four or six feet wide along
the walks of the fruit or vegetable garden, were usually
planted with hardy herbaceous plants, the tall growing at
the back, with the lower growing sorts in front. These,
when there was a good collection, gave a bloom of varied
color throughout the entire growing season. But the
more modern style of flower borders has quite displaced
such collections, and they are now but little seen, unless
in very old gardens, or in botanical collections. Then
again, we have the mixed borders of bedding plants, a
heterogeneous grouping of all kinds of tropical plants,
still holding to the plan of either placing the highest at
the back of the border if it has only one walk, or if a bed
has a walk on each side, the highest in the middle, and
the plants sloping down to the walk on each side. The
mixed system still has its advocates, who deprecate the
modern plan of massing in color as being too formal, and
too unnatural a way to dispose of flowers. But be that

PLANTING OF LAWKS AHD FLOWER-BEDS.

31

as it may, we will not stop to argue the matter further
than to state, that in a visit to England in 1872, it was
most evident that the " Carpet Styles" of massing plants
as done at Battersea Park, London, were interesting to
the people in a way that no mixed border could ever be.
Any one who has not yet seen the wonderful effects pro-
duced by the massing of plants in this way, has a treat
before him. Nearly all the public parks in and about
London are so planted, and thousands of cottage gardens
vie with each other in imitation of the parks. But to
plant in patterns or in ribbon lines requires for immediate
effect a large number of plants, for the reason that they
must be so set out that they will meet to form continu-
ous masses shortly after planting.

An illustration in circles (for convenience), is given in
fig. 8, to show what plants can be massed together to give a
pleasing effect. Of course
it will be understood that
a bed of any shape can be
planted in this manner as
well as circular beds, only
keeping in view the width

of the bed. For example,

a bed having a diameter

of ten feet may require

eight or ten different

kinds of plants to form the

necessary contrast, while

that of five feet will not re- Fig' 8-^GB^ <» ™>WEK-BED.

quire more than half that number. The following named

plants are well suited for planting in masses or ribbon

lines ; they are named as nearly as possible in the ordei

of their hight, number one in each case being the tallest.

Many of them will require to be "pinched back" to

keep at the proper hight, so that the outline will form a

regular slope from the center or highest point, down to

GARDEtfl^G FOR PLEASURE.

the front or lowest point — thus in list No.l, Canna Indica
zebrina will grow six feet high, while Lobelia Paxtoni,

Fig. 9. — SECTION OP FLOWER-BED.

the lowest, is less than six inches. The section given in
figure 9 will give an idea of the arrangement of a bed of
this kind.

LIST No. 1.

1. Canna Indica zebrina, leaves green and brown striped 6

2. Salvia splendens, flowers scarlet 5

3. Golden Coleus, leaves orange and brown 4

4. Achyranthes Lindeni, leaves rich crimson 3

5. Phalaris arnndinacea var., leaves white and green 2ya

6. Achyranthes Gilsoni, leaves carmine 2

7. Bronze Geranium, leaves golden bronze iya

8. Centaurea Candida, leaves white 1

9. Alternanthera latif olia, leaves crimson and yellow 3/4

10. Lobelia Paxtoni, flowers blue V»

LIST NO. 2.

1. Caladium esculentum, leaves large green 5

2. Japanese Maize, leaves striped white and yellow 5

3. Coleus Verschaffeltii, leaves chocolate crimson 4

4. Delphinium bicolor, flowers blue and white 3

5. Cyperus alternifolius var., leaves white and green Z1/^

6. Achyranthes Verschaffeltii, leaves crimson 2

7. Mountain of Snow Geranium, leaves white and green iya

8. Tropseolum, Ball of Fire, flowers flame color 1

9. Echeveria metallica, leaves gray, 'metallic lustre 3/4

10. Alternanthera amoana, yellow and carmine Va

PLANTING OF LAWNS AND FLOWER-BEDS. 33

It will be understood that these lists of plants can be
transposed in any way necessary to suit beds of all
widths, keeping in view that where small beds are placed
near walks the lower growing kinds are most suitable,
while for beds at greater distances from walks, or
other points of view, the taller growing kinds must
be used. Very fine effects are produced by plant-
ing on a lawn a single specimen of stately habit, such
as some varieties of the Eicinus, or Castor-oil Bean,
which grow ten and twelve feet in hight in one season,
and are particularly striking plants. Or instead of this,
a mass of six, eight, or twelve plants of scarlet sage will
form a group six feet high by as many in diameter, and its
dazzling scarlet color, contrasting against the green of
the lawn, is superb. Many of the Amaranths are also
well suited for planting in single groups. Amarantus
tricolor gigantea, (Joseph's coat), grows to the hight of
six feet, an,d its leaves in the late summer and fall
months exceed in brilliancy of color anything we know
of in foliage ; scarlet, crimson, and golden yellow pre-
dominating. Another, the Amarantus Ueolor ruler,
grows to the hight of five feet, and is plumed with scar-
let crimson. In contrast to these, plants of a more
somber tint may be used, in individual specimens or in
a group of such as Pampas Grass, (Gynerium argenteum),
or the Eavenna Grass, (Erianthus Ravenna), each of these
attain a hight from six to ten feet, and have a graceful ap-
pearance. The Tanyah, Oaladium esculentum, a tropical
looking plant growing three or four feet in hight, and
producing leaves sometimes eighteen inches across.

THE CARPET STYLE OF FLOWER-BEDS.

Planting, as practised at Battersea and other parks in
London, is as yet but little seen with us ; our public
parks here have shown a lamentable want of taste in this

34

GARDENING FOB PLEASURE.

matter, especially those of New York and Brooklyn ;
Philadelphia and Boston have done better, but all of
these are weak attempts when compared with the grounds
of some of our private gentlemen, notable among whom
are H. W. Sargent, of Peekskill, N. Y., and H. H.
Hunnewell, of Boston. The grounds of Mr. H. are
thrown open to the public, who have the opportunity of
seeing effects in this style of planting, nearly equal
to anything in Europe, entirely at the expense of the
munificent owner. The carpet style, so called, con-
sists in using plants that can be kept down to a few

Fig. 10. — DESIGN FOB SCROLL-PATTEBN.

inches above the level of the lawn. A great variety of
succulent plants are used, such as Echeverias, Sedums,
Mesembryanthemums, etc. , together with numerous low-
growing Alpine plants, such as Ajugas, Cerastiums, Lys-
imachias, Lobelias, Ivies, Alternantheras, etc., etc.
This style of bedding requires an immense number of
plants. One bed in the carpet style at Battersea Park,
containing less than 1,000 square feet, required 4,000
plants to produce the desired effect in the design, and
not a leaf of these was more than six inches above
the lawn. Planting in this style admits of unlimited va-

THE CARPET STYLE OF FLOWER-BEDS. 35

riety in the form of the beds, and contrasts of colors ; so
great is the care exercised abroad in arranging the de-
signs that colored papers, giving the exact tints of the
leading flowers and colored foliage, are supplied by the
dealers, in order that colored designs may be made and

Fig. 11. —ORNAMENTAL DESIGN, AFTER THOMPSON.

studied before putting them into execution ; a single
misplaced color may spoil the effect of the whole. In
works of this kind the parts of the design should be sep-
arated by well defined portions of turf, as the color of
each member of it is brought out more clearly and dis-
tinctly, and the whole has a much better effect if a lib-
eral amount of green is introduced. The two plans, figs.
10 and 11, are introduced to give an idea of some of the

36 GAEDENING FOE PLEASUEE.

simpler designs ; the scroll-work, fig. 10, in various forms
is much used, either near a drive, or as a margin or
frame to more elaborate work.

CHAPTER XL

FALL, OR HOLLAND BULBS.

These bulbs are mainly such as are imported from Hol-
land in the fall, and consist of Hyacinths, Tulips, Cro-
cuses, Jonquils, Narcissuses, Snow-drops, and various
other less known kinds. With few exceptions, all these
bulbs are hardy in our most northern states, though all
are benefitted by a covering of two or three inches of
rough litter or leaves spread over the beds before freezing
weather. The soil best suited for all bulbs is a rich, but
rather sandy loam. All these bulbs may be planted any
time from the middle of September, until the ground is
closed by frost in December. Hyacinths should be
planted at distances of eight or ten inches apart each
way, and from three to four inches deep. Tulips, the
same distance apart, but a little less deep. Crocuses four
inches apart and two inches deep. Jonquils and Narcis-
suses may be planted six inches apart and four inches
deep. Snow-drops the same as Crocuses.

Very fine effects are produced by planting Hyacinths in
lines each of one color, or when mixed colors are placed
in the lines, care must be taken to have them arranged
so that the bed will give harmonious blending of color.
Crosuses have nearly the same range of color as the
Hyacinth, and may be planted either way.

All these bulbs are easily grown in pots. The Hya-
cinth requires a pot six inches in depth and diameter ; in

FALL, OR HOLLAND BULBS. 37

potting it is only necessary to fill the pot rather .loosely
to the brim, and press the bulb down, so that only about
one-fourth of it appears above the soil. The pot should
then be struck smartly on the bench to give the soil
the proper degree of firmness, leaving it, when fin-
ished, about an inch or so below the rim of the pot.
Then water freely to still further settle the soil. The
pots should then be placed where it is cool and dark,
which will encourage a strong development of roots,
before the bud starts to grow at the top. Such a situa-
tion can be made by covering up the pots with four or
five inches of sand in a cool cellar, under the stage of a
cool greenhouse, or in a sunken pit, in each case covering
with sand or leaves, so as to exclude heat and frost, for it
must not be forgotten that a strong development of root
can only be had at a low temperature, say from forty to
fifty degrees, and any attempt to force them to make
roots quicker by placing them in a high temperature,
will most certainly enfeeble the flower. If we will only
observe how nature points out to us this necessity, we
will see how safe it will be to follow her. In all hardy
plants, the roots in spring, (when the temperature is
low), form the rootlets before a leaf or flower is devel-
oped. To show the bad effects when this is not the case,
take a root of any of our hardy lilies and plant it in
March, and take a similar bulb and plant it in May ; it
will be found that the early planted bulb that had an
opportunity to slowly develop its roots before there was
heat enough to start the top, will give a finer growth and
finer flower than the bulb that was planted in May, and
run up into growth before it had an opportunity to
sufficiently push its roots into the soil. The culture of
all the bulbs before named, in pots, is the same as that of
the Hyacinth, only the Narcissuses and Tulips should be
planted three or four in a six or seven-inch pot, and Cro-
cuses ten or twelve in a pot. All these bulbs may like-

38 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE.

wise be grown in moss, or even pure sand, provided that
it is kept damp ; the necessity being a medium wherein
the roots can revel in moisture. But whether potted in
soil, sand, or moss, there will be no need to water, but
at the time of potting, provided the pots have been cov-
ered up as directed, and kept cool and dark. If potted
say the first week in October, they may be removed from
their dark quarters in seven or eight weeks, only before
doing so, turn a few of them out of the pots to see
whether they have rooted around the ball of earth.
They may then be placed in full light and watered freely.

HYACINTHS IN GLASSES.

Although the Jonquils and Narcissuses can be grown in
water in glasses as well as the Hyacinth, they are not
often so treated, hyacinths being the only bulbs largely
flowered in that way, some of which are shown in fig. 12.

Bohemian.
Fig. 12. — HYACINTH GLASSES.

The glasses are made of various styles, from the plain
old-fashioned Belgian to the ornamental Bohemian
glasses, and of clear glass or colored, green, amber, claret,
and other shades. The glasses, which are best of a
dark color, are filled with water just high enough for the
base of the bulb to touch it. The glasses must be
placed in a cool and dark place, just such a situation

PROPAGATION" OF PLANTS BY SEEDS. 39

as recommended for those grown in pots. Care must be
taken that they do not freeze, else the glasses will be
broken, and the Hyacinths more or less injured. Single
Hyacinths are better than double ones for glasses. The
water should be changed every six or eight days.

CHAPTER XII.

PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BT SEEDS.

Nature provides abundantly for the reproduction of
plants, and the difficulty of multiplying by one method
is compensated by the ease with which it may be done
in another. Whenever we find a plant takes root with
difficulty from " slips" or cuttings, in nine cases out of
ten we find that it seeds freely, and gives us a ready
means of increase. Thus we find the much admired
Centaureas, one kind of the " Dusty Millers," the white
leaved plants now so much used in massing and for
baskets, are exceedingly difficult and slow to root from
cuttings, but are readily raised from seeds. Our fine
strains of blotched Petunias are also troublesome as cut-
tings, but make plants quickly from seeds. The Cycla-
men with its turnip-like stem or bulb, could only be
propagated by cutting in pieces, disfiguring its shape, and
requiring years to form a circular bulb again, but here we
have seed coming to our help which germinates freely,
and makes a flowering plant in one year. The Apple
Geranium never affords proper cuttings from which to
make a plant, but it seeds freely, from which splendid
plants can be produced in a few months. So the Pri-
mulas and Cinerarias, both slow and uncertain from cut-
tings, seed freely. Echeveria metallica, one of the beau-

40 GAKDENING FOK PLEASUHE.

tiful plants of the House-Leek family, produces no bud
from the base of the leaf, as nearly all the other species
do, but to make up, it seeds abundantly, and so with
hundreds of other plants to which our space will not per-
mit us to refer. There is no rule by which we can des-
ignate what plants are best propagated by seeds, and
what by cuttings, experience being the only teacher, and
even the experience of a lifetime is too short for those
of us that have had the largest practice.

Seedling plants can be nearly as well raised in the win-
dow of a sitting-room or parlor, provided the tempera-
ture is right, as in a greenhouse, for seeds do not need a
strong direct light while germinating, in fact that is
often a difficulty in a greenhouse, as the surface of the
seed-bed dries up too quickly in the direct sunshine, ne-
cessitating watering, which bakes the surface. The best
thing wherein to sow seeds is shallow boxes ; these need
not be more than two or three inches deep, with open
seams at the bottom through which water will drain
quickly. Fill the boxes within half an inch of the top
with light rich earth ; if it can be procured, nothing is
better than black leaf-mold from the woods, or light
sandy soil mixed with an equal bulk of stable manure, so
rotted as to resemble leaf -mold, it will not answer un-
less rotted as fine as dust. In the absence of either of
these, sweepings from a paved street are excellent, mixed
with light sandy soil, the object in all cases being light-
ness of the soil or mold in which the seed is to be sown ;
for if tiny seeds, as many of our flower-seeds are, are
embedded in a stiff soil, the germ in many of them is too
weak to push its way to the light. When the proper soil
has been secured, pat it down with a smooth board until
it is as smooth and level as it well can be, then sow the
seed carefully over the surface, distributing it evenly,
then take a common kitchen sieve and sift just so much
earth evenly over the seed as will cover it and no more :

PROPAGATION OF PLAINTS BY SEEDS. 41

then take a watering-pot with the finest kind of a rose,
and shower the earth with the spray. Keep the box at a
temperature as near sixty degrees as possible, taking care
to give it a shower of spray only when the surface
appears to be dry ; but few seeds will fail to germinate
under such conditions. But after the seeds have
"brairded," as the Scotch gardeners say, comes another
difficulty; in quite a number of plants, particularly
if sown in the house, just as soon as the seed leaf has de-
veloped, and before the first rough or true leaves have
formed, the seedling is attacked by a minute fungus,
that will often sweep off the whole crop in 48 hours, if not
attended to. The required attention is, that as soon as
there are indications of the " damping off" of these tiny
seedlings, they must be carefully taken up and planted
out in similar boxes, prepared exactly as the seed-boxes
have been ; they may be planted quite closely, not more
than half an inch apart, and let their further treatment
be exactly the same as in germinating the seeds. In the
course of a few weeks they will have grown freely, and
they may then be lifted and placed in similar boxes, but
wider apart, say three or four inches, or potted singly in
two and a half or three-inch pots as most convenient,
until such a time as they are to be planted out in the
open ground, or to be used otherwise. In this way as
great a number of plants may be raised from a 25c. or 50c.
packet of seed as would cost $25 or $50 to purchase, be-
sides the far greater satisfaction of their being the pro-
ducts of your own hands.

42 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

CHAPTER XIII.

PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY CUTTINGS.

There is no more interesting operation to the amateur
gardener than that of increasing his stock of plants by
cuttings or slips. Heretofore, it was accounted a great
mystery, and unless with some of the commonest kinds
of Geraniums, few amateurs ever presumed to invade the
territory of the professional gardeners. Nearly all writers
on the subject had so befogged this simple matter with
technical nonsense, that few, not regularly brought up to
the business, presumed to attempt it. We now consider
it one of our simplest operations, far simpler than raising
many kinds of plants from seed, and though we raise
now over two millions of plants annually, and keep a
man with three assistants doing nothing else the entire
year but propagating plants from slips, yet we could take
any careful, intelligent man from among our garden
laborers, and install him as a competent propagator in a
month. Where plants are propagated from cuttings in
large numbers, we elevate a bench, usually four feet
wide, above the flue or hot- water pipes, to within a foot
or so of the glass at the front, and on this table or bench
we place three or four inches of sand, of any color or tex-
ture, provided it is not from the sea-shore, and contains
salt. This bench is boarded down in front, so as to confine
the heat from the flue or pipes under it, and give what
is called " bottom heat " ; the sand on a bench so formed
will indicate a temperature of perhaps seventy degrees,
while the atmosphere of the greenhouse, particularly dur-
ing the night, will be ten degrees less. Now, if the cut-
tings are in the right condition, and are inserted an inch
or so in this sand, freely watered, and shaded from the
sun from 9 or 10 A.M. to 3 or 4 P.M., cuttings of nearly

PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY CUTTINGS.

43

all kinds of plants are certain to take root in from ten to
twenty days. But the cuttings must be in the right
condition, and this is best shown by the engraving, (fig.
13). It will be observed that the upper portion of the
shoot is snapped or broken, while the other is only kneed
or bent ; this snapping point, as we now term it, is a
true indication of proper condition of the cutting ; where
it bends and does not break, it is too hard, and though a

Fig. 13.— PEOPER AND IMPROPER STATE OF CUTTING.

cutting will root, when in that condition, it will be
slower in doing so, and the roots thrown out from it will
be weaker and more wiry than when emitted from a
cutting taken in the condition in which it breaks. Be-
sides the plant grown from the older cutting will not

44 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

likely be so healthy or vigorous as one made when the
shoot is in the proper state.

In propagating woody plants, such as Boses, Azaleas,
or Camellias, this test of breaking or snapping of the
cutting does not in these indicate the proper condition,
although they also will root if taken in the soft state,
yet we find it is not quite so well to do so as to wait until
the cuttings of these woody plants gets harder ; what
this proper hardness is, it is not very easy always to de-
termine. In roses the best condition for taking the
cutting is reached when the young shoot, (of which the
cutting is made), develops the flower bud to about the
size of a large pea. Although the shoot on which the
flower bud shows, will make a proper enough cutting,
yet if it is not desired to waste the flower, cuttings had
better be made of the (( blind" shoots, i. e., such young
shoots as do not flower. In making the cuttings of
roses, or in fact of almost all plants, (with a few excep-
tions hardly worth noting), there is no need to cut at a
joint, although nine gardeners out of ten still do so, par-
ticularly those who have learned the business in Europe,
where, in this as in many other things in horticulture,
they still follow the dictum of some savant of a century
ago, never questioning why. But our business necessities
here, have caused us to ride rough -shod over many of
their set rules, and in none more ruthlessly than in this
matter of propagating. But as this book is written
mainly for amateurs in gardening, I will proceed to give
a simple method by which any one can propagate plants
from cuttings or slips, even when no greenhouse or hot-
bed is at hand. It is called

THE "MUD" OR "SAUCER SYSTEM" OF PROPAGATING.

Take any common saucer or plate, into which put
sand to the depth of an inch or so, then prepare the cut-
tings in the usual manner, and insert them in the sand

"MUD" on "SAUCER SYSTEM." 45

close enough to touch each other as in fig. 14. The sand
is then to be watered to bring it to the condition of mud.
The saucer with the cuttings is then placed on the shelf
of the greenhouse, in the hot-bed, or in a sunny window
of any room in the dwelling house ; in each case fully
exposed to the sun and never shaded. But one condi-
tion is essential to success — until the cuttings become
rooted, the sand must be kept continually saturated with
water and always in the condition of mud. To do this the
saucers must be watered at least once a day with a very
fine rose watering pot, and the watering must be done
very gently, else the cuttings may be washed out. There
is every probability that ninety per cent of all cuttings
put in will take root, pro-
vided they were in the
proper condition, and the
temperature has not been
lower than 65 degrees nor
above 100 degrees. By
the saucer system a higher
temperature may be main-
tained without injury, as the cuttings are in reality placed
in water, and will not wilt provided the water is not allowed
to dry up. Still the detached slip, until rooted, will not
endure a long continuation of 100 degrees, and we advise
that propagation be done at such seasons that the cuttings,
wherever they may be, will have as near as possible an
average temperature of 75° or 80° in the sunlight. The
cuttings will root (according to kinds and the tempera-
ture), in from six to twenty days. Verbenas, Heliotropes,
Fuchsias, etc. , root in a week, while Eoses, Carnations, or
Azaleas, take two, three, or four weeks. When rooted they
should be potted in light soil, (such as recommended in
the article " Propagating of Plants by Seeds,") in pots
from two to three inches in diameter, and treated care-
fully by shading and watering for two or three days. To

GARDENING FOE PLEASUEE.

such as desire more extended information on the subject
of propagating plants by cuttings, I would refer to my
work, "Practical Floriculture."

CHAPTER XIV.

PROPAGATING BY LAYERING.

Although florists now rarely resort to propagation by
layering, yet now and then it may be desirable for ama-
teurs to increase the number of some favorite plant dur-
ing the summer season, where no other method of propa-
gation can be practised. The only difference between a
layer and a cutting is, that the cutting is entirely de-
tached from the parent plant, while the layer remains
partially connected with it. Although layering may
be done with the ripened wood of vines or shrubs of the

growth of the previous
season, yet it is prefer-
able to use the shoot of
the present year in its
half green state ; for ex-
ample, a rose or flower-
ing shrub is pruned in
the usual way in spring;
by midsummer it will
have made strong shoots
one, two, or three feet in
length from or near the
base of the plant. Take
the shoot then in the
left hand, (after having stripped it of its leaves for a few
inches on each side of where it is to be cut), keep the
fingers under the shoot, and make a cut on the upper part ,

Fig. 15.— PROPAGATING BY LAYERING.

ABOUT GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 47

an inch or so in length, and to about half the thickness
of the shoot, then slightly twist the "tongue" or cut
part to one side, as shown in the engraving, fig. 15; hay-
ing opened a shallow trench, fasten the branch down
with a hooked peg, and cover with earth ; it is a good
plan to place a flat stone over the layer to prevent the
soil from drying out. This plan of cutting the shoot in
layering is rarely shown in illustrations on the subject,
the cuts usually being represented at the under side of
the shoot. When cut at the lower side, the shoot can
not be laid down without danger of breaking it.

CHAPTEE XV.

ABOUT GRAFTING AND BUDDING.

It is often desirable to be able to bud or graft one
variety of plant on another entirely different variety ;
and it is an interesting fact to know that the bud taken
from one plant and inserted so that it grows in another,
and is entirely sustained by the plant into which it has
been budded, in no way changes its character. This
fact is so well known to gardeners that they rarely think
it necessary to mention it in writing on the subject, and
many amateurs interested in horticultural matters have
very confused notions on budding. To illustrate: if a
leaf bud is taken from a white Rose, and inserted in the
stem of a red Rose, all the branches that proceed from
this bud, leaves or flowers, will be identical with the
white Rose from which it was taken. Or if a leaf bud
of the red Rose be inserted in the white, the same result
would follow ; it will be identical in all respects with the
red variety. Or you may take a bud or graft from the

48 GARDENING FOE PLEASURE.

sourest crab apple, and insert it into a branch of the
sweetest apple tree you can find, and the shoot which
grows from the crab apple bud will ever remain a crab,
and will in no way be affected by the sweet apple stock
on which it is growing. Or if the operation is reversed,
and the sweet apple is budded or grafted on the sour,
the result will be the same ; its individuality will be in
no way changed, it will be identical with the variety
from which it was taken.

Still further to illustrate this matter of budding or
grafting, you may take a rose-bush having any number
of shoots, it makes no difference whether one or a hun-
dred ; on each shoot you may bud a distinct variety of
Rose, of all the colors, forms or odors embraced in the
Roses, and each one will hold its distinct characteristic
of color, form, or fragrance, be it crimson, white, pink,
or yellow in color, double or single in form, or of tea or
other odor. Or you may take a young seedling apple
tree, insert a bud of another into it, then after that bud
has made a growth, bud still another variety into that,
and so on as many as is desired, rub of all shoots in the
stem that start below, and the variety last budded will
hold its individuality unchanged, no matter though the
life-sustaining sap flows through the cells of several dif-
ferent kinds. You may mark the space occupied by each
of the varieties, and cut back to any particular variety,
and the fruit that will be produced by that part, which will
then be the top, will hold its character without change.
What is true of roses and apples, is of course equally
true of whatever plant that can be grafted or budded.

The stock does not in any manner affect the individu-
ality of the graft, and I supposed that this was one of
the generally accepted axioms of horticulture, but in a
conversation not long ago with a gentleman whose opin-
ion is entitled to consideration, I found him inclined to
believe that there were some few exceptions to what was

ABOUT GKAFTING AND BUDDING. 49

admitted to be a general law, and in support of his argu-
ment, he referred me for exceptions to Darwin's " Plants
and Animals under Domestication." I have examined
this work, and find only two cases wherein it is claimed
that the graft is influenced by the stock, or the stock by
the graft. The llrst is at page 45 7, Vol. 1, where "Prof.
Caspary describes the case of a six-year-old white Moss
Eose, which sent up several suckers, one of which was
thorny and destitute of moss, exactly like those of the
Provence Kose, (R. centifolia), another shoot bore both
kinds of flowers, and in addition longitudinally striped
flowers. As this white moss had been grafted on the
Provence Eose, Prof. Caspary attributes the above changes
to the influence of the stock, but from the facts already
given, and from others to be given, bud variation with
reversion is probably sufficient explanation " ; and Dar-
win proceeds to give nearly a dozen cases of like variation
where there was no grafting at all. A very marked case
of this "bud variation" is at the present time existing
in my own greenhouses. In a bed of about one hun-
dred plants of the new tea-rose, " La Nankin," all made
from the cuttings from one parent plant, we have had
four distinct varieties. The original flower or bud has
its base or lower half of a nankeen yellow color, while its
upper half is pure white, the separate colors being clearly
defined, yet among our plants from cuttings we have
some flowers that are entirely of the nankeen color, with-
out white ; then again pure white with no nankeen, and
on one shoot the flowers came of a light pink or blush
shade. Now had Prof. Caspary a grafted plant of " La
Nankin " playing these freaks, he no doubt would have
concluded that it was the influence of the graft on the
stock. There are other instances in grafting where an
amalgamation of individualities apparently occurs ; these
cases are familiar to all horticulturists of much experi-
ence, and are also alluded to by Darwin in the work above
3

50 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

referred to. He gives a number of instances where the vari-
egated Oleander grafted on the plain leaved variety as a
stock, imparts the variegation to the stock, or where a yel-
low-leaved ash tree, grafted on the common green-leaved
variety, produced a blotched or variegated variety. That
most of the variegation in the foliage of plants, is due to
disease, or at least some disturbance of the regular func-
tions of the leaf, there is but little doubt, and it is there-
fore but an accidental condition of the individual. Where
a variegated plant is budded or grafted upon a healthy
subject, the disease is transmitted from the unhealthy
bud or graft to the healthy stock in a manner somewhat
analogous to innoculation of smallpox virus in man. The
character or constitution of the individual is in no way
affected in the one case more than in the other. Marked
instances in which plain-leaved plants become variegated
by being grafted with variegated cions, are afforded by
the variegated Abutilons ; but in all such cases it is sim-
ply the " blotching" or "disease" of the foliage that
occurs, there is no change whatever in the coloring of the
flowers or shape of the leaves, the individuality of these
remains unchanged. That leaf variegation is indicative
of disease, is manifest from another fact. It is quite a
common thing to find a shoot sent out by the silver-
leaved or variegated Geraniums that is pure white in stem
and leaves, not a particle of green, or such golden varie-
gated kinds of Geraniums as " Mrs. Pollock" will send
out a pure yellow shoot ; but all efforts to make plants of
such shoots will fail ; they may feebly root as cuttings,
or they may be grafted on a green-leaved, healthy stock
long enough to drag out a few weeks of existence, but the
disease is here thoroughly established, and all attempts
to propagate these entirely abnormal growths completely
fail. It has been claimed that the Duchesse d'Angouleme
and other pears are much better flavored when grafted on
the quince than on the pear stock, and these are quoted

HOW GRAFTING AND BUDDING AEE DONE. 51

as examples of the influence of the stock on the graft, but
to me this seems capable of another explanation :

We know that the pear stock is a vigorous and
rampant grower as compared with the quince, and
may it not be that this vigor of growth in the tree impairs
the flavor of the fruit in some varieties, just as we find
the flavor of fruits impaired when grown in too rich soil ?
The effect of soil upon quality is particularly marked in
melons. I remember that I once grew a field of three
acres of nutmeg melons, one-half of the patch was rich
bottom land, and the other portion was a rather poor
hillside. The fruit produced on the bottom was much
larger, but so different from and inferior in flavor to
those on the hillside that no one would have recognized
the two as being of the same variety. The same, though
in a less marked degree, probably occurs in other fruits
under similar conditions. From these reasons I believe
it safe to assert that no evidence has yet been shown
wherein the stock in any manner affects the graft other
than that it may cause it to grow stronger or weaker,
just as the stock is strong or weak, and the amount of
such influence will be only such as a rich or poor soil
would produce. In other words, the " stock" is only a
medium or soil wherein the grafted individual grows, and
affects it no more than if it drew its sustenance direct
from the earth — strong, if on a strong stock, as on a fer-
tile soil, and weak, if on a weak stock, as on a sterile soil.

CHAPTER XVI.

HOW GKAFTING AND BUDDING AKE DONE.

After this discussion of general principles, let us
come to the practice of grafting and budding. In what
has been said, they have been used as synonyms, and their

52 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

object is precisely the same — to propagate a particular
plant upon a rooted plant of another kind. Among
fruits we do this because we cannot multiply choice vari-
eties by seed or by cuttings ; stocks are raised from seed,
which if allowed to grow and bear, might produce a poor
and worthless fruit, o: it may be a good kind. To make
matters sure, we graft a twig of a kind that we know
upon a seedling about which we know nothing. With
Camellias, the choice kinds cannot well be propagated from
cuttings, but some of the commoner kinds will grow in
this way, and the choice Camellias are grafted upon stocks
obtained by rooting cuttings of the others ; so in various
cases among fruits and flowers, budding or grafting af-
fords the readiest, if not the only method, by which we
can multiply certain varieties. A graft is a twig contain-
ing one or more buds, and so inserted or planted in the
stock that the new bark and new wood of the two shall
be in close contact ; in budding, a single bud with no
wood, or as little wood as possible, is inserted or planted
below the bark of the stock and in direct contact with its
new or sap-wood. While we give the two operations dif-
ferent names, the French call budding simply a variety of
grafting — shield-grafting. In a general way it may be stated
that in grafting we use buds of a previous year, and in-
sert them upon the stock where they are to grow the
spring after they are formed, and as soon as vegetation
starts, these buds commence to grow. In budding we
use buds of the current season's growth ; the recently
formed buds, near the end of the growing season, are
planted in the stock where they unite, and remain dor-
mant until spring, when the inserted bud pushes into
growth at the time that the natural buds of the stock
start. These statements apply only to out-door grafting
and budding ; when these operations are performed under
glass, the propagator has control of atmospheric condi-
tions, and varies them to suit the subjects in hand. In

GKAFTING.

53

out-door grafting, such as that upon fruit-trees, the cions
are best if cut in the fall and preserved in sand or saw-
dust in the cellar during the winter ; though with very
hardy sorts this is not essential, they should be cut before
any swelling of the buds takes place. The operation suc-
ceeds best when the buds on the cion are perfectly dor-
mant, and those on the stock have swollen and about to
open.

GRAFTING.

The various methods of grafting are too many to describe
here ; the simplest is the cleft graft ; the stock is sawed
off and the end cleft or split for a few inches down
through the center, (fig. 16) ; the cion, (or two if the
stock is over an inch in
diameter), with two or three
buds, has its lower end
smoothly cut to form a
wedge a trifle thicker on
one side than the other,
(fig. 17) ; the cleft in the
stock is pried open by means
of an iron wedge or a wedge-
shaped stick, and the cion
or cions set with the thicker
edge of the wedge outward,
observing to bring the in-
ner bark and new wood
of stock and cion in as
close contact as possible; the opening wedge being
withdrawn, the spring of the stock will hold the cions
in place, (fig. 18) ; the junction is to be covered with
grafting wax, or waxed cloth, taking care to completely
cover every wounded portion of both stock and cion. It
is by this method that most of the grafting is done all
over the country ; it is rude but very successful ; the ob-

Fig. 16. Fig. 17. Fig. 18.

CLEFT GRAFTING.

54

GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

jection to it is that it leaves too great a wound to be
closed over. For small stocks the whip-graft is generally
used ; it is much easier to do it than to describe it ; stock
and cion should be as near of a size as possible ; both are
cut with a similar slope, and in each slope is cut a tongue
asjn fig. 19 ; when the two slopes are put together, the

/

a

Fig. 19. — WHIP GRAFT.

Fig. 20. — SIDE GBAFT.

two tongues are interlocked as in the engraving, taking
care that the inner bark of stock and cion come in con-
tact as completely as possible. In this illustration the
parts are represented as tied with twine, to show the
joint below, but in practice the whole is completely cov-
ered with a band of waxed cloth. This, where practica-
ble, is an excellent graft, there being no large wounds to .
heal over, and the points of union are numerous. This
graft is much used by nurserymen in root-grafting small
apple and pear stocks. A very simple form called the side-
graft is often employed by florists and nurserymen ; the

GRAFTING.

55

cion is cut to a long wedge, and the stock has a down-
ward cut made in its stem into which the cion is inserted
as in fig. 20. In grafting the Camellia and other hard-
wooded plants, a combination of the whip and side graft
is made use of as shown in fig. 21.

Grafting wax used to cover the wounds made in graft-
ing may be purchased at the seed and implement stores,
or the amateur can make it himself. It should be soft

Fig. 21. — GRAFTING THE CAMELLIA.

enough to be molded by the heat of the hand on a cool
day, but not so soft as to run when exposed to the heat
of the sun. It is essentially rosin and beeswax, with tal-
low or linseed oil enough to make it sufficiently soft. A
good formula is rosin 2 Ibs., beeswax T|4 lb., tallow 8|4
Ib. The better way for the amateur to use this is to melt
the whole together thoroughly and then dip in it strips
of well worn cloth, such as may be torn from a worn-out
sheet or calico dress. These waxed strips will tear read-
ily, and may be neatly fitted to the graft to make a com-

56

FOE PLEASUEE.

plete covering; the fingers should be slightly greased
when applying the waxed cloth.

BUDDING

The shoot or stock to be budded upon must be in a
thrifty growing state, so that the bark can be raised
freely from the wood, and the bud to be inserted must
be in such a state that it shows prominently at the axil of
the leaf. Select a smooth portion of the stem of the
stock, strip it of leaves, sufficiently to allow room for
the operation, then make a cut through the bark to the

wood of an inch
or so, with a cross
cut at the top, as
shown in fig. 23 ;
it will be observed
that the illustra-
tion shows that a
slight cut of the
bark is made above
the cross cut, this
is done to allow the
bud to slip in bet-
Fig. 23. Fig. 23. Fig. 24. Fig. 25. ter- this custom we

BUD. OUT. BUD IN. BUD TIED. t6r> tniS C

think is not gener-
al, but we find the
operation is done quicker and better by its use. Then take
the shoot from which the bud is to be cut, and selecting
a properly developed bud, cut it from the shoot as shown
in fig. 22 ; if the portion of the shoot from which the bud
is taken is well ripened, it is best to separate the wood
from the bark of the bud ; but if not it had better re-
main on. Usually it is necessary to take the wood from
buds on the lower part of the shoot, while the upper
part being less ripened, those buds may be inserted
with the wood remaining. The edges of the cut in the

THE METHOD OP BUDDING.

TREATMENT OF TROPICAL BULBS, SEEDS, ETC. 57

stock are lifted by the point of the knife or an ivory at-
tachment to the budding-knife, the bud inserted and
pushed down as in fig. 24 ; the portion of bark attached
to the bud that projects above the horizontal cut in the
stock is cut off, and the tie applied. This is usually bast
matting, though cotton wick or other soft material will
do. The engraving, fig. 25, shows where to place the
tie, but when of bast it quite covers the wound and ex-
cludes water and prevents drying. In two or three weeks
after the bud has been inserted, it will be safe to remove
the tying, and if the operation has been performed on a
Kose in June, it will often make a considerable growth the
same season, but it usually lies dormant until the next
spring. All shoots upon the stock below the bud must
be rubbed off, and when the bud that has been inserted
starts to grow, the stem above it must also be cut back
just above, so that the inserted bud which now becomes
the plant, may get the full benefit of the root.

CHAPTEK XVII.

TREATMENT OF TROPICAL BULBS, SEEDS, ETC.

Any information that can be given in an article short
enough to be suitable for amateurs on a subject so ex-
tended as this must be confined to a few well known and
leading plants most valued for general cultivation. First
may be placed the Tuberose, which in most northern
states must be artificially forwarded to bloom in perfec-
tion in the open air. The seasons are too short for the
full development of the flowers in fall unless the bulbs
are so forwarded. All that it is necessary to do is to
place the dry bulbs in soil in pots or in boxes about May

58 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE.

1st, (not before), keeping them rather dry until they
start to grow freely, when more water may be given.
Plant the bulbs thus started in the open border, the first
week in June. The bulbs while being forwarded may be
kept in any place where the thermometer ranges from
about 65° to 75° at night. We usually piace them un-
der or alongside the hot- water pipes in our greenhouses,
covering them up with paper to keep the heat of the
pipes from them. Light is not necessary until they have
well started to grow. A greenhouse is not essential for
starting them in, as a hot-bed, or even a warm sitting
room, will do nearly as well. Any one wishing to have
their Tuberoses "started" can do it themselves just as
well as a florist can, and as the dry bulb costs less than
half the price of the started one, and is mere safely
transported by mail or otherwise, any one taking the
trouble to do it will save expense and have the bulbs in
better condition for planting.

Some of my readers have seen or cultivated the bulbs
known as fancy or spotted-leaved Caladiums. There are
probably no plants that assume such varied and wonder-
ful markings of the leaves as these, and when properly
grown, they are among the most attractive plants at our
horticultural fairs. The continued high temperature
necessary for the healthy growth of the Tuberose, is
equally indispensable for the Caladium. The bulbs we
treat at first exactly in the same manner as the Tube-
rose ; that is, they should not be started much before
May 1st, and never should they be kept for any length of
time in a less temperature than 65°. They are best
started in small pots, and should be shifted into larger
ones as soon as these get filled with roots. Started in
May, and properly treated, they should be large enough
by August or September to require a flower-pot twelve
inches in diameter, and the plant should be, according to
the variety, from two to three feet in diameter across the

TREATMENT OF TROPICAL BULBS, SEEDS, ETC. 59

leaves. Caladiums require a partial shade, and if kept
in a greenhouse during summer, the glass should be
shaded, but the light of an ordinary sitting-room would
be just about right ; so that even those who have not a
greenhouse can grow these rather rare and beautiful
plants with perfect ease. The only thing necessary if
grown as a window plant, is to turn the pot around every
few days so that each side may get a proper amount of
light — a necessity with all plants grown in windows.
The soil best suited for its growth is that known as sandy
loam, to which should be added one-third rotted manure
or leaf mold.

The same time of starting and a similarly high tem-
perature is required for Begonias of all kinds, Bouvardias,
Cissus, Coleuses, Dracaenas, Euphorbias, Poinsettias, and
all other plants known as " hot-house" or " tropical,"
and the same general treatment will in nearly all cases
lead to satisfactory results. All of the plants or bulbs
referred to will dwindle or die if long kept in a low tem-
perature, and hence it is important that amateurs should
remember that they ought not to attempt the cultivation
of these plants unless they have the means of steadily
keeping up the necessary high temperature. For that
reason we recommend that they should not be started
before May, as then they run less risk of being chilled.

What is true of tropical bulbs or plants is equally so of
tropical seeds. Those who have not had experience or
who have not the means of keeping up the necessary
high temperature, should not sow the seeds of tropical
plants before April 1st. Of vegetable seeds, the
best known of this class are the Tomato, Pepper, and
Egg-plant. I know they are often started in March in
hot-beds or greenhouses with satisfactory results, but let
any one try the experiment of sowing on March 1st and on
April 1st, and note the result in the earliness of the crops,
from the two sowings, and he will find that the chances

60' GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

are that the last shall be first ; if it were always practi-
cable to keep the necessary temperature steadily along,
the first sown would be the first, but this is often
very difficult to accomplish, while there is but little dif-
ficulty with the later sowing, as assistance is then given
by the increasing outside temperature. For this reason
seeds of tropical annual flowers, such as Amaranths of all
kinds, Balsams, Salvias, Double Portulacas, Cannas,
Coxcombs, Zinnias, etc. , should not be sown before April
in the hot-bed, or if in the open ground, in this latitude,
not before May 15th.

CHAPTER XVIII.

THE POTTING OF PLANTS.

This naturally follows the preceding chapter, and I
will briefly state a few of the most important points ; first
of all is soil, or potting mold, often rather a troublesome
thing to get by those who have only a few dozen plants
to repot. The soil used by us, and most florists, for
nearly every plant we grow, is one combining freshness,
richness, and what is called friableness of texture ; this
condition we get by paring off the sod from the roadside,
mixing it with one-third of well-rotted stable manure,
and throwing it in heaps until it rots ; turning it over
two or three times until the whole is well mixed ; if the
plants are small, we run it through a fine sieve before
using it ; if large, we use it rough, without sifting. But
it may not always be convenient to get this material, and
it is by no means indispensable to success ; leaf-mold
from the woods, mixed with any fresh field loam, and a
little rotted stable manure, will answer nearly as well ;

THE POTTING OF PLANTS. 61

or city folks can get sweepings from the pavements, and
these mixed in equal bulk with any good fresh soil, that
from an old cultivated garden is not usually so good,
will make a potting soil in which almost any plant will
grow vigorously ; of late years we have used street sweep-
ings largely in our potting soil, and like it very much.

Now having the soil in proper condition, the next
thing is the pots, which, if they are not new, should be
thoroughly washed, so that the evaporation of moisture
will take place freely through the porous sides. One of
the most common errors among amateur cultivators is to
put their plants in too large pots. If a plant such as a
Kose or Geranium is lifted up out of the ground to be
potted, it should be placed in a pot only large enough to
allow an inch or so of soil to be placed below, and around
its roots, — or to make it better understood, if the plants
are, say a foot high, and a foot in diameter, they should
be pruned back so that the diameter will not be more
than 6 or 8 inches, and for such sized plants the pot
should not be more than 6 inches wide and deep.

The same rule applies to plants that have been grow-
ing in pots ; if it is now in a pot three inches wide, a proper
shift will be to one four or four and a half inches wide ;
if in a five-inch, shift to six and a half or seven-inch,
and so on. In taking a plant out of a pot to place it in
another one, turn it upside down with the fingers of the
left hand spread over the surface of the earth, or top of
the ball ; with the right hand holding the pot by the
bottom, give the rim a smart rap on the edge of a
board, and the ball of earth enveloping the root will
come out, just as a jelly will out of a mold. I am par-
ticular in referring to this simple matter, knowing that
it is no uncommon thing for ladies to break the pot with
a hammer in their endeavors to get at the root, although
they would hardly sacrifice a bowl to get at the jelly.
In shifting, or repotting, place a little soil in the bottom

62 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

of the pot, then place in the ball of roots exactly in the
center, which will leave a space of from half an inch to
two or three inches between this and the sides of the pot,
according to the size of plant to be shifted ; to pack this
space between the side of the pot and the ball of roots
with soil, it is better to use a flat stick with which to
crowd it in moderately firm, filling up the pot to with-
in an inch or so of the rim, this space being required to
enable it to hold water. After potting, give a good
watering with a sprinkler to settle the soil to the bottom
of the pot, but after this be sparing of water until the
plant shows signs of new growth, which will take place
simultaneously with its making roots in the fresh soil.
We use no potsherds or drainage of any sort in our pots,
believing it to be perfectly useless to do so, the evapora-
tion from the porous sides of the pot in our dry climate
giving drainage enough. In the greenhouse we always
spread an inch or so of sand on the bench or table
upon which the plants stand ; this to some extent pre-
vents the plants from being injured when watering has
been too long neglected, as the pots and the soil imbibe
moisture from the sand which is usually more or less wet.
When the plants are placed on bare shelves, either in the
sitting-room where they are well exposed to light, or in
the greenhouse, watering should be done at least once a
day, provided they are growing vigorously.

CHAPTER XIX.

WINTER FLOWERING PLANTS.

The increase in the taste for winter-flowering plants,
within the past five years, has been even more positive
than that for the cultivation of plants out of doors,
formerly it was rare for florists to fill an order in the fall,

WINTER FLOWERING PLANTS. 63

but now, during the months of October, November,
and December, they make shipments daily in large
quantities to every section of the country ; and these
nearly equaling in number those of plants for the open
ground in May and June. The plants best suited for
flowering in winter may be divided into two classes.
First, those requiring a moderate temperature at night,
say an average of 50 degrees. Whether the plants are
grown in the parlor or sitting-room of a private dwelling,
or in a greenhouse especially constructed for their cul-
ture, the conditions should be as nearly as possible the
same ; that is, uniformity of temperature ranging from
45° to 55°, and an avoidance of a dry atmosphere ; it is
easy enough in the greenhouse to get a properly hu-
mid atmosphere by sprinkling the paths with water ;
but in a room in the dwelling house, the only thing that
can be done is to place pans of water on the stove, fur-
nace, or whatever may be the source of heat. If plants
are kept in a sitting-room or parlor, an east, south-east, or
south aspect should be chosen. Plants of the class
that may be grown at an average temperature of 50
degrees, are Azaleas, Abutilons, Ageratums, Carnations,
Cinerarias, Catalonian Jessamines, Cape Jessamines,
Camellias, Callas, Chorizemas, Geraniums of all kinds,
Hibiscus, Hyacinths, Myrsiphyllum, (Smilax), Maher-
nias, Primulas, Stevias, Eoses, Violets, and the various
kinds known as greenhouse plants, which, together with
those above named, can be found fully described in the
florists' catalogues.

The second class, or hot-house plants, require an aver-
age temperature of 60 degrees at night, the range of
which, however, may occasionally run from 55° to 65°
without injury. Of these we name the following : Be-
gonias, Bouvardias, Clerodendrons, Euphorbias, Epiphyl-
lums, Fuchsias, Heliotropes, Poinsettia, Roses, (these
will do in either temperature), Tuberoses, etc. For de-

64 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE.

scriptions of varieties, reference may be made to the cat-
alogues. The necessity for this difference in temperature
is not absolute, as many plants will do partially well in
either ; but we make this distinction as a guide to those
having a choice of temperatures, in order that they may
select the plants that are best adapted to the one at com-
mand. In a greenhouse, particularly if heated by a flue,
there is often a difference of five or ten degrees between
one end and the other ; in such a case the plants named
in the first class must be placed at the cool end, and those
of the second class at the other.

One of the most troublesome pests of plants grown in
the greenhouse, or sitting-room, in winter, is the aphis,
or " green fly/5 as it is termed ; we have no difficulty in
getting rid of it in the greenhouse, when it is separate
from the house ; all that is necessary is to get some to-
bacco stems (such as are thrown out as refuse by cigar
makers), and soak them in water for a minute or two ;
about half a pound or so for a greenhouse 25 x 20 feet is
placed over a small handful of shavings, only enough to
light the dampened tobacco, as too many might injure
the plants by smoke ; the burned tobacco stems give out
a smoke that is quickly fatal to the "green fly." To
thoroughly prevent the least appearance of this insect, the
greenhouse must be fumigated every four or five days.
We fumigate all our greenhouses twice each week during
the entire year ; our rule being that an aphis must never
be seen upon any plant in the houses. If the greenhouse
is attached to the dwelling, so that the tobacco smoke
would find its way into the rooms, recourse may be had
to another remedy ; take these same waste tobacco stems
and steep them in water until the liquid is of the color
of strong tea, with this water syringe the plants freely
twice a week, this will not only effectually destroy the
green fly, but will keep in check most other insects that
infest plants. Where only a few plants are kept in

WINTER FLOWERING PLANTS. 65

rooms, the easiest way is to dip the plants entirely in
the tobacco water, moving them up and down in the
liquid, to wash the insects off if they have a firm
hold. The "red spider" is another pest to winter
blooming plants, and wherever it is seen you may be cer-
tain that the atmosphere has been too dry, and very
likely the temperature too hot, as it is rarely found in
a cool, damp atmosphere. The treatment for this insect
in the greenhouse is copious syringings with water, but
where but a few plants are grown in the house, it is best
to go over the leaves, especially on the under side, with
a wet sponge. The red spider is so minute that it is
hardly distinguishable by the naked eye, but its destruc-
tive effects are quickly perceivable, as the leaves upon
which it works soon become brown, and if the leaves are
closely examined, particularly the underside, the minute
insect will be seen in great numbers.

Another troublesome insect among plants that are
grown in a high temperature is the " mealy bug." The
insect is flat, of whitish brown, usually nestling at the
axils of the leaves, where it is covered with a white pow-
der, making it easily distinguishable ; this is one of the
most annoying of all insects that attack plants, as noth-
ing seems to kill it, unless the remedy is strong enough
to injure the plants ; so that rubbing it off with a small
brush is the only safe remedy that we would care to
recommend to amateurs. We find alcohol thrown on by
what is called an " atomizer," sold by druggists for be-
dewing with perfumes, to be very effective in destroy-
ing the "mealy bug," as the alcohol reaches to every
part of the plant, but we also find that some plants when
in very soft growth are injured by even this light appli-
cation of alcohol. Another pest, not an insect, but a
vegetable parasitic growth known as mildew, affects but
few plants in-doors except the rose, still as it is most in-
jurious to those, we give the most effectual remedy for

66 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

destroying mildew on roses either outside or under cover.
Boil one Ib. of lime and one Ib. of sulphur in two gal-
lons of water, until it is reduced to one gallon ; allow the
liquid to settle until clear, and bottle it for use ; one
gill only, no more, of this liquid, is mixed in five gallons
of water, and this syringed thoroughly over the rose
plants in the evening. If in the house, so that syringing
cannot be done, dip the plants in it as recommended for
the tobacco water. As with most other remedies, we pre-
fer to use this lime and sulphur mixture as a preventive
rather than as a cure, and we apply it to our roses at
least once a week, even though there is no appearance of
mildew. In proportion as plants are kept free from in-
sects and mildew, so will be their vigor and their thrifti-
ness. For more complete information see special chapter
on insects and mildew.

I may here warn the amateur against the too common
practice of placing plants in too large pots. As a gen-
eral thing, when plants are received from the florists,
they are sent without pots, and are usually in a condition
requiring them to be shifted into a pot larger than they
had been growing in; for example, if they have been
grown in a pot of 3 inches diameter, place them in one
a size larger, or 4 inches in diameter ; if they were in 4-
inch pots give them one 5 or 6 inches across, and so on.
Though we entirely ignore the use of crocks, or drainage
in pots in our own practice, where we have always the
proper sizes to use in potting, yet in cases where a suita-
ble sized pot is not on hand into which to shift, (for ex-
ample, if a plant that has been grown in a pot of 3
inches diameter, must be put in one of 6 inches),
then by all means fill up one-third of this too large pot
with broken pots, charcoal, or some such material to
drain off the surplus moisture that would otherwise be
injurious, in consequence of the pot being too large
for the plant ; but if the pot into which it is shifted is

UNHEALTHY PLANTS — THE KEMEDY. 67

properly adjusted to the wants of the plant, the putting
in of crocks for drainage is worse than useless, I care not
what the plant may be. Our greenhouse establishment
now covers nearly two acres, yet not a pot is so " drained."
The need of a larger pot is shown by the earth becoming
so filled with roots that they well cover the outside of the
ball, but shifting into a larger pot should be done while
the roots are yet white ; if left until the roots get thor-
oughly matted, brown, and hard, it is too late, and the
future growth will be seriously retarded. If the plant
has been allowed to reach this condition, which we
call "pot bound," it is best to lay the ball of roots
on one hand and slap it smartly so as to loosen it ;
by this treatment the new fibres strike out more read-
ily from the hard roots than if left with the ball still
compact. After shifting a plant, give it one good water-
ing, so that the soil will be thoroughly soaked to the bot-
tom of the pot ; but after that, keep rather dry until
there are indications of new growth. For manner of pot-
ting, see chapter on "The Potting of Plants." We are
often asked as to the use of guano and other fertilizers on
in-door plants. As a general thing we use none in our
own practice, preferring to shift the plants into fresh soil
at the proper time, rather than to do so, and we would
advise the same to our friends of less experience, for the
use of all such stimulants is, under certain conditions
of the plants, dangerous in unpracticed hands.

CHAPTER XX.

UNHEALTHY PLANTS— THE REMEDT.

Whenever plants begin to drop their leaves, it is cer-
tain that their health has been injured ; this may be due to
over-potting, over-watering, over-heating, too much cold,

68 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

or the application of such stimulants as guano, or to some
other cause which has destroyed the fine rootlets by which
the plant feeds, and induced disease that may lead to
death. The case is not usually important enough to call
in a " plant doctor," so the amateur begins to treat the
patient, and the practice is in all probability not unlike
that of many of our household physicians who apply a
remedy that increases the disease. Having already de-
stroyed the, so to speak, nutritive organs of the plant,
the stomach is gorged with food by applying water, or
with medicine, by applying guano or some patent " plant
food." Now the remedy is nearly akin to what is a good
one when the animal digestion is deranged — give it no
more food until it re-acts. We must then, if the roots
of the plant have been injured from any of the above
named causes, let the soil in which it is potted become
nearly dry ; then remove the plant from the pot, take
the ball of soil in which the roots have been enveloped,
and crush it between the hands just enough to allow all
the sour outer crust of the ball of earth to be shaken off ;
then re-pot in rather dry soil, (composed of any fresh
soil mixed with equal bulk of leaf-mold or street sweep-
ings), using a new flower-pot, or the old one, thor-
oughly washing it, so that the moisture can freely evap-
orate through the pores. Be careful not to over-feed the
sick plant. Let the pot be only large enough to admit
of not more than an inch of soil between the pot and ball
of roots. After re-potting, give it water enough to set-
tle the soil, and do not apply any more until the plant
has begun to grow, unless indeed the atmosphere is so
dry that the moisture has entirely evaporated from the
soil, then of course water must be given, or the patient
may die from the opposite cause — starvation. The dan-
ger to be avoided is in all probability that which brought
on the sickness, namely : saturation of the soil by too
much water. Other causes may induce sickness in

PLANTS SUITED FOE SUMMER DECORATION. 69

plants, such as an escape of gas in the apartment, or
smoke from a flue in the greenhouse, but in all cases,
when the leaves fall from a plant, withhold water, and
if there is reason to believe that the soil has been poi-
soned by gas, or soddened with moisture, shake it from
the roots as before advised, and re-pot in a fresh flower-
pot. Many years ago, when I used smoke-flues in my
greenhouses, some kindling wood, carelessly thrown on
the top of one of them, ignited, and the smoke caused
the leaves of every plant to drop. There were some 3,000
plants, mostly Tea-Eoses, in the greenhouse ; it would
have been too much of a job to re-pot all, but by with-
holding water for some ten days, they started a new
growth again, and very few plants were injured.

CHAPTER XXL

PLANTS SUITED FOR SUMMER DECORATION.

Quite a number of winter-blooming plants can also be
used for flowering in the open borders in summer.
Among these are Carnations, Heliotropes, Fuchsias, Ge-
raniums, and particularly the monthly varieties of Roses.
Also the following, not strictly winter-flowering, are such
as will give a continuous bloom during the whole season,
from June until October or November. Antirrhinums,
(raised either from seeds or cuttings), Dwarf Dahlias,
Erythrina or Coral Plant, Gladiolus, Geraniums of all
kinds, particularly the class known as " Zonal," double
and single, Lantanas, Lobelias, (seeds or cuttings), Petu-
nias, single, (seeds or cuttings), Petunias, double ; Pan-
sies, (seeds only) ; Pentstemons, Passion-flowers, Ronde-
letias, Salvias, (seeds or cuttings) ; Tropasolums, (seeds or

70 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE.

cuttings) ; Verbenas, (seeds or cuttings) ; Veronicas. All of
the above have their principal attraction in their flowers.
The following are only useful for the brilliant color-
ing or other peculiarities of foliage. Alternantheras,
Achyranthes, Artemisias, Cerastium, Centaureas, (seeds
or cuttings) ; Caladiums, Coleus, Cinerarias, (seeds or
cuttings); Dracaenas, Echeverias, Geraniums, (silver, gold,
or bronze) ; variegated Ivies ; Lysimachia, variegated
Grasses ; Peristrophe, Sanchezia nobilis, Vinca major,
etc., etc. For descriptions see florists' catalogues. All
of the above can be raised from slips or cuttings taken
from plants, (or by seeds where noted), during the win-
ter or early spring months — January, February, March,
or April, either from plants that have been kept for
flowering in winter, or from large plants that have been
preserved for the purpose of propagation ; the young
plants raised from slips are in nearly every instance
preferable to the old plants. Our practice is, to grow
the old, or "stock" plants, simply to make cuttings, until
we get enough from them, and then to throw the old
plant away, reserving the young ones only for sell-
ing, or for our own planting in the open borders.
Cuttings are rooted in the way described in the chapter
on " Propagation of Plants by Cuttings," or if by seeds,
as in chapter on "Propagation by Seeds." The young
plants should first be potted in 2-inch pots, and if early
in the season, they will require to be shifted into 3-inch
pots before it is time to plant them out in the open
ground, which it is not safe to do in this latitude until the
middle of May ; nor in any other latitude before the
time when tomatoes or egg plants can safely be planted out.
Nothing is more satisfactory to the lover of flowers than
raising his own plants, no matter how able he may be to
purchase. Those of his own raising, whether for his own
use or to present to his friends, are always more val-
uable than anything that money can buy. One of the

PLANTS SUITED FOR SUMMER DECORATION. 71

most common mistakes made by purchasers of plants in
our city markets, is that of almost invariably choosing
large plants, forced into flower ; such plants are usually
grown under a high temperature to get them in bloom
early, and many a housewife has found that the beautiful
full blooming plant of a Rose, Fuchsia, or Pelargonium,
which she so tenderly carried home, will in 48 hours drop
its flowers and leaves in the cooler and drier atmosphere
of her greenhouse, parlor, or garden. But the florist is
hardly to blame for this, though I know he is often se-
verely censured ; not one in a score of those who pur-
chase plants in spring will buy any plant unless it is in
bloom ; the florist grows plants to sell, and must suit the
wants of his customer. This partial divergence from the
subject in hand, is to show that the small slips or cut-
tings that the amateur may raise himself, are in most in-
stances better than full-blown forced plants, costing
50c. or $1 each. This is particularly so with monthly
Roses, Verbenas, and Petunias ; young plants of these,
set out in May, if not more than 3 or 6 inches high, will
grow and bloom in profusion the entire summer, while
those which have been forced, if they recover at all, wil)
be greatly inferior.

We plant our young Roses in May, usually in beds
4 feet wide, setting the plants 12 inches apart each way ;
they begin to bloom by the middle of June, and con-
tinue without interruption until checked by frost in the
fall ; and so with most other kinds here named ; nearly
all of which are from young plants, propagated during the
winter and spring months. The product of cuttings or
slips from a " stock" plant varies greatly according to the
kind. A good healthy plant of Fuchsia, say 18 inches
high, will easily give 40 cuttings ; while a Rose or Gera-
nium of the same size will not afford half that number.
A fair average for medium sized plants of those named
would be 10 cuttings or slips to each plant, so that start-

72 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE.

ing with 100 plants in the fall, by May 1,000 would be no
unreasonable, increase to expect ; or in that ratio be the
number more or less.

If large quantities of plants are wanted for summer dec-
oration by those who have neglected to propagate them, or
did not wish to do so, they should purchase young plants in
March or April, at which time the florists, to make room
in their houses, sell them at very low rates, usually
not more than one-fourth of the price that the same
plants forced into bloom in May would cost. Such plants
at that season are grown mainly in 2 and 3-inch pots ; if
taken from these pots, say by 1st of April, and kept in
any cool room or greenhouse, where the temperature will
average 45° or 50° at night, by the time of setting out in
May they will have formed far better plants than those
pushed rapidly into flower in May. Or in other words,
$10 expended in March or April, will buy one hundred
plants, which, if cared for as above described, will by the
middle of May be of more value than the plants $50
would buy at that date from the same florist.

CHAPTER XXII.

HANGING BASKETS.

Baskets in which to grow plants are now made in a great
variety of styles, and of different materials. What are
known as "rustic" baskets, (fig. 26), are made with the
receptacle for the earth covered mostly with laurel roots,
which assume an endless variety of grotesque shapes, well
fitted for giving a rustic appearance to the outer covering of
the hanging basket. Then there are the different forms
of wire baskets, (fig. 27), which, when used, are lined with

HANGING BASKETS.

73

moss, and being thus very open, and allowing of com-
plete drainage, are best suited of all for the well being of
the plants. A recent invention is the
"Balloon "hanging basket, (fig. 28),
the trellis part of which is formed of
strips of steel; some are so arranged as
to hold a common flower-pot. Many
beautiful forms
are made from
pottery ware,
colored so as to
imitate stumps
of wood and
other objects.
Thousands of
these baskets
are used in some
of their differ-
ent forms, and
many grow their plants in no other way, as plants are not
only more easily managed in these, but many varieties so
cultivated make a more graceful
growth than is possible when they
are in pots. In hanging baskets,
the fall, or Dutch bulbs, of all
kinds, can be grown, giving them
exactly the treatment recommend-
ed for growing in pots on page 36.
When hanging baskets are hung
on the veranda or porch in sum-
mer, a great quantity of water is
usually required, as the dry air
surrounding the basket on all
sides generally drys up the soil.
The simplest way of watering
them when dry, in summer, is to immerse the basket in a
4

RUSTIC HANGING BASKET.

Fis- 27-

WIKE BASKET.

28.— BALLOON FBAMH.

74 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

pail or tub of water, so that the earth is thoroughly soaked
through ; how often this immerson will be necessary will
depend on the weather, the condition of the plants
and the quantity of earth. If the bowl of the basket is
full of roots, and the weather hot and dry, then once
each day may be necessary ; while if the weather is damp
and cool, it might not require watering more than once
a week. The rule with these as with all plants is — never
water unless they are dry, and then water thoroughly.
Just what this condition of being " dry" is, is not quite
so easy to describe ; as a rule most soils when dry become
lighter in color and crumble freely between the fingers,
and are free from the putty-like consistency they have
when wet. The bowls of "rustic" and "Terra Gotta"
forms of hanging baskets are usually without any holes
for drainage ; when such is the case, the purchaser
should have a few holes, say one-fourth inch in diameter,
made in the bottom of the bowl, else there is dan-
ger that the earth around the roots may become satura-
ted with water, unless unusual care is taken in watering.
There is great diversity of taste displayed in the material
with which these baskets are filled, and no special list of
plants can be given that will not require to be annually
changed and amended as new plants are introduced.
When hanging baskets are wanted for use in shady rooms,
or on shaded verandas, mosses, (selaginellas), are used,
and sometimes exclusively. Then for the same condi-
tions, Ivies of all sorts, Cissus, Tradescantias, Sedums or
Stone Crops, Fittonias, Lysimachia or Moneywort, Vin-
cas, Ivy-leaved Geraniums, Smilax, etc., as plants to
droop over the sides, or to be trained to climb on the
trellis work or supports of the basket, while in the center
there are used upright plants, such as Dracaenas of sorts,
Caladiums, (if for summer), Marantas, Centaureas,
Echeverias, Ferns, Sanchezia nobilis, and other plants of
striking form or foliage. For baskets to be placed in the

WINDOW GARDENING. 75

sun, or in good light, an entirely different class of plants
is needed, for with the light we get flowers. As drooping
plants for the edges of these, may be named Alternan-
theras, Peristrophe angustifolia var., Lobelias, Tropseo-
lums, Mesembryanthemums, Petunias, single and double ;
Passifloras, Kondeletias, Torrenias, etc., while for up-
right or center plants, Achyranthes, Coleus, Begonias,
Geraniums, Zonal, double, single, and variegated leaved,
or any plant of not too large a growth, and which has
brightness of foliage or flower. If hanging baskets are
exposed to the full rays of the sun, or even partially so,
covering the surface of the soil with moss from the woods
will protect it from drying too quickly, and will also give
the basket a neater appearance. The soil used for hang-
ing baskets need in no way differ from that for plants
grown in pots.

CHAPTER XXIII.

WINDOW GARDENING.

"Window gardening during the summer months is much
more successful in England than with us, owing to
a more temperate climate, and hence is there al-
most universally practised. In the cities especially,
where space is economized by placing story upon story,
and the buildings are so close that there is often no
room for even a spear of grass to be grown, the only
garden that is possible is one formed in a box on the win-
dow-sill; this is limited in its extent, as the space afford-
ed is only some 4 or 5 feet in length, from 8 to 10 inches
wide, with a depth for the soil of about 6 inches. These
boxes, are made of a great variety of materials, such
as wood, terra cotta, iron, etc., according to the

76

GAEDENING FOE PLEASUEE.

taste or means of the owner. As the hoxes are usually
too high up to allow of a close examination, and the sides
soon become draped with dropping plants, an ordinary
box of pine, as in fig. 29, will answer as well as a more
expensive one; as it is exposed to the weather, and the
weight of the earth is considerable, it should be put to-

Fig. 29. — PLAIN WINDOW-BOX.

gether very firmly. Having procured the box, then let
a tinsmith make a lining or box of zinc that will exactly
fit inside of it ; this needs only a few tacks at the upper
edge to hold the zinc to the wood. A more expensive
box, (fig. 30), is made of wood, lined with zinc, and the
exterior covered with ornamental tiles, which are kept in
place by a proper molding at the margins. A box of
this kind may be covered with floor oil-cloth, and if a
proper pattern be selected, it cannot at a few yards off be
told from the much more costly tiles. Many of the streets

Fig. 30. — WINDOW-BOX ORNAMENTED WITH TILES.

of London and Edinburgh, during the summer months,
present a pleasing appearance, that cannot fail to inter-
est even those who have no taste for flowers. The plants ,
used are mainly such as we recommend for hanging bas-
kets, those designated for shady positions being used on the
shady sides of the streets, and those for flowering on the
sunny sides. These window gardens in summer produce

PARLOR GARDENING. 77

the finest effect when planted with some drooping spe-
cies. For our climate, during the summer months,
when exposed to full sun, strong, vigorous-growing
plants must be selected, such as Tropseolums, Petunias,
Passifloras, etc. While for the same position, the upright
plants may be double and single Geraniums, Heliotropes,
Mignonnette, and the like. For window boxes on the shady
side, use the plants recommended for hanging baskets in
shade. The soil may be such as is used for pots. Wa-
tering must be given as recommended for hanging bas-
kets, only in the case of the window box it would not be
practicable to immerse it, nor is there the same necessity
for doing so, as the box is less exposed than the hanging
basket, which is suspended and surrounded by drying
air upon all sides. These remarks refer to window gar-
dening outside of the windows, or on the outer sill. If
the boxes are placed inside in winter, which they may
be, the treatment recommended in chapter on " Winter
Flowering Plants," will be applicable.

CHAPTER XXIV.

PARLOR GARDENING, OR THE CULTIVATION OF PLANTS IN
ROOMS.

Parlor Gardening has to some extent been treated of
under the head of winter flowering plants, but a few ad-
ditional general directions for plants not specially de-
signed for winter flowering, may be acceptable. One of
the first conditions essential to success is to start with
healthy plants. Even all the professional skill of the
florist, with all his appliances, will often fail to get a
sickly plant into a healthy condition. What then can

78 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

the amateur florist expect to do in the often unequal
temperature and dry atmosphere of a sitting room or
parlor ? If the plants are purchased from the florist in au-
tumn, to grow in the house, they are likely to be healthy,
and are usually in a condition to shift into a pot one size
larger ; instructions for doing this are given in the chap-
ter on "Winter Flowering Plants." But if the plants to
be cultivated in the house are such as have been growing
in your own flower borders, plants that were set out in
spring, and have now the full summer's luxuriant growth
still on them, then proper precaution must be taken in
lifting them and placing them in pots, or the result is
certain to be most unsatisfactory. "What may seem to
the novice a little singular, is, that the more luxuriant the
growth of the plant in the open border, the more danger
there is that it will wilt or die when lifted in the fall, and
placed in a pot. The reason of this is obvious, when it is
known that just in proportion to the top growth of a
plant is the wide-spread development of roots, and there-
fore when you lift a finely-grown Geranium or Rose in
October, it is next to impossible, if it is to be got into a
suitable sized flower-pot, to do so without such mutila-
tion of the young roots as will certainly kill it, if precau-
tion is not taken to cut off at least two-thirds of its
branches. If the plant is thus potted and kept as dry as
it will stand without actually withering, until it starts
growth, you may hope to have a fairly healthy specimen
by December, if the lifting was done in October. But
this practice, though often one of necessity, is never sat-
isfactory. If the plants that have done service in the
borders in summer are to be used as ornaments for the
parlor in fall, winter, and spring, they must have a dif-
ferent treatment. All plants that are intended for future
culture in rooms, should be potted in the usual way,
into 5 or 6-inch pots, when set out in May or June ;
these pots should be set in the flower borders, but planted

PARLOR GARDENING. 79

or " plunged," as it is called, so that the rim of the pot
is level with the surface of the ground. The plants will
flower if so desired, in these pots, nearly as well as if set
directly in the open ground, but if wanted for flowering
in winter, they will bloom much better to have the flow-
er-buds picked off as fall approaches. It is also indispensa-
bly necessary that the hole in the bottom of the pot be
entirely stopped, so that the roots cannot get through.
The object being to confine the roots completely within
the bounds of the pot, so that when taken up in the fall
to be shifted into a larger pot, the roots will be undis-
turbed, and the plant will grow on unchecked. If this
is not done, and the roots find their way through the
bottom of the pot, there will be the same difficulty with
the roots as if they had not been potted. About the best
time to take plants in-doors in this climate is the middle
of October ; in colder localities, earlier, of course, and in
warmer, later ; always bearing in mind that the longer
they can be kept in the open air, provided they are safe
from frost, the better. Plants suited for parlor culture,
requiring a temperature of from 40° to 50° at night,
with an average of 10° or 20° higher during the day are
as follows. These are known as greenhouse plants. For
descriptions see catalogues of florists and nurserymen.

Acacias, Cupheas,

Azaleas, Daphnes,

*Agapathus, *Echeverias,

*Alternantheras, Ferns, Greenhouse,

*Agaves, Feverfews,

*Abutilons, *Fuchsias,

*Achyranthes, Geraniums— Pelargoniums,

Ageratums, Hoyas, (wax plant),

*Callas, Holland Bulbs of all kinds,

Calceolarias, *Jessamines — Catalonian,

Chorizema, Jessamines— Cape,

Cinerarias, Ivies— parlor and hardy,

*Carnations, *Ixoras,

Cyclamen, Lily of the Valley,

Camellias, Lobelias,

80 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

*Mesembryanthemums, (wax pink), *Primulas, double and single,

Mahernias, *Roses,

Mimulus — Musk, *Scutellarias,

*Myrsiphyllum, or Smilax, Veronicas,

Oranges, Vincas,

Oleanders, Violets,

Petunias, Yuccas.

Pinks,

What are known as hot-house, or tropical plants, re-
quire a higher temperature than the proceeding, and
cannot be well grown unless with a night temperature of
from 60° to 70°, and a day temperature of from 10° to
20° higher. The following, of most of which there are
several varieties, can be found described in the cata-
logues of dealers :

Allamandas, Ferns, tropical,

Allocasias, Heliotropes,

Begonias, Hibiscus,

Bouvardias, Marantas,

Caladiums, Orchids, (of some kinds),

Cissus, Passifloras,

Clerodendrons, Peperomias,

Cobaeas, Poinsettia,

Crotons, Salvias,

Coleus, Sanchezias,

Dracaenas, Torenias,

Euphorbias, Tropaeolums,

Epiphyllums— Cactus, Tuberoses.
Eranthemums,

This matter of temperature has everything to do with
the successful cultivation of plants in rooms, or in fact
anywhere. If you attempt, for example, to grow Bou-
vardias or Begonias in an average temperature of 45° at
night, the plants will barely live, and will not flower,
nor be healthy. On the other hand, if you subject your
Camellias or Geraniums to an average of 65° at night by
fire heat in winter, you are almost certain to have the
flowers drop prematurely. As a rule, there are more of
the plants known as greenhouse that will endure the

PARLOR GARDENING. 81

high temperature necessary for the hot-house plants,
than there are of the hot-house plants that can stand
the low temperature, so when no distinction can be made,
and a high temperature only can be had, all in the list of
greenhouse plants I have marked with a * may be grown
fairly in the high temperature, though they would do
better in the low one. The culture of plants in rooms is
already described in the chapter on " Winter Flowering
Plants," so that I need not further allude to it, except
to hint in regard to the man-
ner of placing the plants.
One of the cheapest and neat-
est contrivances is the "fold-
ing plant stand," (fig. 31).
The sizes are from 3 to 6 feet
wide, and 8 feet high, having
from 4 to 6 shelves, and cap-
able of holding from 25 to
100 plants. It is hinged so ,

, - T-, ,., , T Fig. 31.— FOLDING PLANT STAND.

as to fold up like a camp stool,

the shelves fitting in between the frames, and can be thus
shipped or stowed away when not wanted, with great con-
venience. Boilers can be attached to the feet, so that it may
be moved about as easily as a table. Plants, when placed
on this, or similar stands, may be provided with saucers, so
that the floor or carpet need not be injured while water-
ing. It is not a good plan, however, to keep water in
the saucers. It is always a safer way of feeding the plant
to water the soil on the top, giving only enough for it
to reach the bottom, where, if any water pass through,
it will be held by the saucer. If no saucers are used,
and we think plants are generally grown more safely
without them, the best plan is, to take down the plants
from the stand, (three times a week will usually be
enough), to some place where the water will not do any
injury, and give all such as appear to be dry, a good

82 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

soaking ; those not so dry, water more sparingly, and give
those in which the soil shows that it is wet, none what-
ever. Let the water drain off, pick off any dead leaves,
and replace the pots again on the stand, being careful to
change them as far as possible, so that each side of the
plant may get its fair share of light ; if the same part is
always placed to the light, the plant will soon become
drawn to one side.

CHAPTEE XXV.

WARD1AN CASES, FERNERIES, AND JARDINIERES.

The forms of plant cases for the growth of such -plants
as require a moist, still atmosphere, a condition impossi-
ble to obtain in a room in a dwelling-house, nor even in
a greenhouse, unless it is specially
erected for the purpose, are numer-
ous. The form commonly known
as the Wardian Case, (fig. 32), has
a base or tray usually of black wal-
nut, about 6 inches deep, and lined
with zinc, and glass sides and top ;
these differ in size, some being as
large as 3 feet on the sides. Another
neat and cheaper form is made of
Terra Cotta, (fig. 33), or other
earthen ware ; these are usually
round in shape, and of various Fi^ ^S.-WABDIAN CASK.
sizes, from 9 to 18 inches in diameter. In all these the
plants must be covered with glass ; in the Wardian Case
there is glass all around the sides and top, the top being
hinged to allow the escape of excess of moisture. In the
Jardinieres, or circular form, the plants are covered by a

WARDIAN CASES, FERNERIES, AND JARDINIERES. 83

bell-glass which is tilted up a little at the side, when

there is an appearance of excess of moisture. This con-

dition of excess is known by the glass becoming dimmed

by moisture, and the water trickling down the side.

Usually when this appearance is seen, by raising the glass

lid of the Wardian Case an

inch or so for a day, it will

relieve it enough to enable it

to be kept close, which is the

proper way to keep it for the

well being of the plants. The

plants grown in this way are

of kinds valued for their

beauty of foliage, rather than

for their flowers, and should

be such as are rather of a

slow growth ; all rampant

growing plants, SUCh as Co-

leus, are unsuited. The
effectiveness of these cases depend a great deal on the
arrangement of the plants ; the tallest and most conspic-
uous things should be in the center, with smaller ones
towards the edges, varying the interest by contrasting the
different colorings and forms of leaves. Among the
plants best suited for growing under these glass coverings,
are Dracaenas, Gymnostachyums, Marantas, Caladiums,
some of the ornamental leaved Eranthemurns, and dwarf
growing Begonias, Peperomias, etc. , and Ferns and Lyco-
pods of the finer sorts. The most of these are plants
whose natural habitat is shady woods or marshes ; and
for their well being, the nearest that the Wardian Case or
Jardiniere can be made to imitate such, the better.

The soil used in these cases should be light and porous.
The most convenient, and a very suitable material, is the
leaf-mold, which can be got in any piece of woodland.
After planting, the soil should be watered freely, so that

WTH GLASS

SHADE.

84 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

it is settled around the roots. And to allow evaporation,
ventilation should be given for a few days after the water-
ing, when the glass may be put down close, only to be
opened as before directed, when an excess of moisture
shows on the glass. Other than this there is no trouble
whatever in the management ; the watering given on
planting will be sufficient to keep it moist enough for 6
or 8 weeks. In winter the temperature of the room in
which the Wardian case or fernery is kept may run from
50° to 70° at night. These closed cases of either kind
may be used for growing Hyacinths in winter if de-
sired, for which they are particularly well adapted ;
only, that when brought into the room to flower, the
cases will require daily ventilation. After planting the
Hyacinths in the cases, however, it must not be forgot-
ten that they must be kept in a cool, dark place, until
they root, just as when they are grown in pots, or glasses.
For further instructions on this head see Hyacinths.
Lily of the Valley can also be grown finely in a Wardian
case ; but as it requires some special treatment, we give
it in a separate chapter.

CHAPTER XXVI.

WINTER FORCING THE LILY OF THE VALLEY.

Within the past three years the fashion for the flowers
of Lily of the Valley has increased to such an extent, that
though the importation of roots has probably trebled
each year, the price of the flower is still quite as high as
when the forcing first begun. The failures which attend
the winter flowering of this plant are mainly owing to
the use of improperly developed roots. As with other

WINTER FORCING THE LILY OF THE VALLEY. 85

similar plants, a certain size or development of the crown,
or underground bud, is essential to produce the flower.
What that size should be, is not, even with the most ex-
perienced, always easy to determine. In the Tuberose,
the Japan, and some other Lilies, we find that bulbs that
are less than an inch in diameter, are not certain to

Fig. 34. — LILY OP THE VALLEY BUD— GOOD.

flower. The crown, or "pip," as florists sometimes call
it, of the Lily of the Valley, when sufficiently developed
to flower, should be of the size and shape shown in fig.

34. Those too small to flower are like that shown in fig.

35. But these rules as to size and shape are not given as
certain, for few have had experience enough to say with
accuracy at what size the crown of the Lily of the Valley
will not flower, although we may say with some certainty,
if the crown is large, that it will do so. It is the want
of this knowledge that, in my opinion, has made the

86 GARDENING FOE PLEASURE.

flowering of the Lily of the Valley so uncertain when
forced. As in forcing the Hyacinth, and other similar
bulbs, crowns of the Lily of the Valley should be covered
up outside for a few weeks, before being brought into
the greenhouse or house to force. Those we flower are
put in about the middle of November, packed closely to-
gether in light, rich soil, in boxes three inches deep.
These are covered up outside with hay until the first of

r

Fig. 35.— LILT OP THE VALLEY BUI)— POOR.

January ; they are then brought into a greenhouse, facing
north, where there is no direct sunlight at that season.
The temperature is kept at about 70°, with a moist at-
mosphere, and by the first of February they are in full
flower. The Lily of the Valley could be grown finely in
a Wardian case, as it would there get the proper light,
with the necessary damp atmosphere. When grown in
greenhouses, exposed to sunlight, it is necessary to shade

GREENHOUSES ATTACHED TO DWELLINGS. 87

the glass very heavily. When the flowers are about to
open, they should then have light to give the leaves a
healthy green color.

CHAPTER XXVII.

GREENHOUSES ATTACHED TO DWELLINGS.

The taste engendered by growing plants in rooms often
results in a desire to have more appropriate quarters for
the plants, and a greenhouse follows. This always affords
the most satisfaction when it is so attached to the dwell-
ing that opening a door or window from the dining-
room or parlor, reveals the glories of the greenhouse.
The greenhouse, when attached to the dwelling, should be
always on the east, south-east, south, or south-west sides,
never on the north. It may be of any length or width
desired. If of ten feet width, it will cost for erec-
tion from $4 to $6 per running foot, according to the
character of the work. If 20 feet wide, from $8 to $10
per running foot. This is exclusive of heating, which, if
done by hot- water pipes, will cost for 10 feet wide, about
$4 per running foot ; if 20 feet wide, about $8 per
running foot. Thus to complete a conservatory, with
heating apparatus, shelves, etc., 10 feet wide by 40
feet long, it would cost about $400; if 20 x 40 feet,
about $800. In this estimate it is assumed that the heat-
ing is to be done by the Base Burning Water-heater,
of Hitchings & Co. This heating apparatus is of recent
invention, and is exceedingly well adapted for the pur-
pose, as the fire requires no more attention than any
ordinary base burning stoves. The boiler takes up no
more room than an ordinary stove, and requires no set-

88

GARDENING FOB PLEASURE.

ting ; it is shown in fig. 36, and in section in fig. 37. It is
fed by coal from the top, and can be left with safety 10
or 12 hours without any attention. It must be borne in
mind that in constructing the conservatory it must be
built where a chimney is accessible by which to carry off
the smoke from the boiler or water heater, just as would

Fig. 36.— BASE-BUBNEB. Fig. 37.— SECTION.

be necessary for an ordinary stove. If the green-
house is small enough to be heated from a register from
the furnace that heats the dwelling, much of the cost
may be saved, as it will be seen that nearly half of the
cost of construction is the heating apparatus. Figure
38 shows a front elevation of a conservatory suitable to

GREENHOUSES ATTACHED TO DWELLINGS. 89

Fig. 38.— ELEVATION OF CONSERVATORY ATTACHED TO DWELLING.

-30-

T

Fig. 39.— GROUND PLAN OP CONSERVATORY, FIG. 38.

90 GARDENING FOE PLEASURE.

attach to dwellings ; this is 16 feet wide and 30 feet in
length. Its ground plan showing the arrangement of the
benches and walks, is given in fig. 39. Such a structure
in every way complete, heated with Hitchings Base Burn-
ing water-heater, should not exceed $600.

CHAPTER

A DETACHED GREENHOUSE OR GRAPERY.

In cases where more extended glass structures are de-
sired, they are better if detached from the dwelling.
The structure now given in figs. 40 and 41 is called a
curvilinear span-roofed house, 100 feet in length by 20 in
width ; fig. 40 shows the end view and plan, and fig. 41
gives sufficient of the elevation to show the end and a
part of the side. The ends should face north and south,
so that the distribution of the sun's rays will be equal on
each side. Of course there is nothing arbitrary in the size,
it may be made 50, 75, or 100 feet in length, or 20 to 25
feet in width as desired, and may be used either for the
purposes of a vinery for the growing of foreign grapes, or
for a conservatory as desired. All the walling from the
surface of the ground to the glass of a greenhouse, had
better be made of wood, unless the walls are made very
thick when built of brick or stone ; the continued warfare
in winter between a zero temperature outside, and 60° to
70° inside, will in a year or two destroy brick or stone
walls. When the walls are formed of wood, the best way
is to place locust posts at distances of four feet apart,
and nail to these a sheathing of boards ; against the
boards tack asphaltum or tarred paper, and again against
that, place the weather-boarding. This forms a wall

A DETACHED GREENHOUSE OR GRAPERY. 91

SCALE'

Fig. 40. — END-VIEW AND PLAN OF DETACHED GBEENHOUSE OE GEAPEET.

GARDENING FOB PLEASURE.

Fig. 41.— ELEVATION (IN PAST) OF DETACHED GBEENHOUSE OB GKAPEJBT.

A DETACHED GREENHOUSE OK GEAPEET. 93

which, if kept painted, will last for 50 years, and is
equally warm as a 12-inch brick wall, and costs less than
half. We have had just such a structure in use for the
past five years as a cold vinery, that is having no heating
apparatus, the forwarding being done only by the action
of the sun on the glass, and it has proved a cheap and
satisfactory luxury. A conservatory or grapery of this
style costs from $10 to $15 per running foot, without
heating apparatus. Heated by hot water, it would cost
$20 to $30 per running foot. If heated by a horizontal flue
in the manner here described, the cost will be only about
$15 per running foot. Any good bricklayer should be able
to build a smoke-flue from the following instructions. Let
the bars for the grate be, (if for a glass surface of say 500
square feet), 2 feet in length and about 10 inches in
width ; or in the proportion of about one-half a square
inch of grate surface to one square foot of glass.

Most masons of any experience know how to build a
greenhouse flue, but there are a few important points, the
knowledge of which is absolutely necessary to complete
success. First, the furnace pit, if not naturally dry,
must be made so by draining. After setting the grate-
bars in the usual way by resting them on an iron plate,
let into the brick work at front and back, the sides of
the furnace should be built with fire-brick and fire clay
if at all procurable, to the hight of from 10 to 20 inches,
according to size wanted. On these walls an arch is
turned over to cover the furnace; the "neck" of the
furnace rising at a sharp angle for from 2 to 4 feet until
it is run into the horizontal smoke-flue. The flue must
be raised from the ground an inch or two on bricks or
flagging. This costs perhaps a third more in building,
but it allows all sides of the flue to give off heat. The
cheapest and simplest form of flue is made after the bot-
tom is formed by bricks or flagging ; brick is best near
the furnace, as flagging would crack. Place two bricks

94 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

on edge, the top being covered by a brick laid flat ; this
is the smallest size of flue. Larger grate surface will re-
quire correspondingly greater hight and breadth. Flues
are now commonly made by using cement or vitrified
drain pipe, to connect with the brick flue, at from 25 to
40 feet from the furnace, the pipe not being safe to use
near the furnace, as the greater heat would be likely to
crack it. A flue, to get the full benefit of the fuel, should
be so arranged that it goes all around the greenhouse, the
base of the chimney being the top of the furnace. The
advantage of this plan, (fig. 42), which has only recent-
ly had general publicity, is that the excessive heat given
out from the top of the furnace, drives back the cold air
that would otherwise pass down the chimney ; not only
too FEET

FRONT BENCH 4 FEET V/IDE

t

WALK 2. FEET WIDE.

K>

in: ""^liii" '""* iz li

n
n

WALK p-^ 2 FE.ELT WIDE
FRONT BENCH Fl(KNAj;E ^ FEET W,DE

H
I

Xig. ±A. — PLAN OF GREENHOUSE HEATED BY DOUBLE FLUES.

drives it back, but passing rapidly out, "draws" to it the
heated air that has to pass through the length of the
horizontal flue, causing it to circulate so rapidly that all
parts of the flue become nearly equally heated. In the
case represented in fig. 42, the greenhouse so heated
is 20 feet wide by 100 feet long, having a glass sur-
face of over 2,500 square feet, a size utterly impossi-
ble to heat with a flue unless so constructed that the base
of the chimney stands on the top of the furnace. It will
be seen by the plan that there are two flues running from
one furnace, and entering into one chimney. I only il-
lustrate this to show the power given by this method.
It would do quite as well, if the house was half or
quarter the size, to have it done by one flue instead of
the two. I would here say emphatically that no matter

HEATING BY HOT WATER. 95

what size a flue may be, and whether single or double, it
should in every case be made on the principle of being
carried all around the building until it enters the upright
chimney built on the top of the furnace.

CHAPTER XXIX.

HEATING BY HOT WATER.

Although we describe flues as a means of heating green-
houses or graperies, they should be used only on the score
of economy ; whenever one can afford to have the heat-
ing done in the best manner, by all means let it be
done by hot water. The hot-water apparatus requires
less attention than flues, and its management is so simple
that any one able to take care of an ordinary stove or
furnace can take charge of a boiler for heating the water
in the pipes of a greenhouse. Besides, there is no danger
from smoke or gas, and but little risk from fire. Inside
the greenhouse there is no danger from fire ; if they are
filled with water the pipes cannot be made hot enough to
ignite the most combustible substances that may come in
contact with them. With the smoke flue it is very dif-
ferent, dry wood or other combustible material will ignite
if allowed to touch the brick, anywhere within 20 to 40
feet of the furnace. There are a great many patterns of
boilers, and to recommend one more than another may
seem invidious ; still we have had in use quite a number
of different styles, and have found that, as far as our
experience with them has gone, those made by Hitchings
& Co., of New York, everything considered, have been
most satisfactory. We have several of these boilers in
use that have not cost a dollar for repair in ten years.

96

GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

Fig. 43.— PLAN OF HOT-HOUSE AND GREENHOUSE COMBINED.

HEATING BY HOT WATER.

97

Fig. 44.— FND-VIEW OP FIG. 43,

AT BOILEK PIT.

Figure 43 gives the ground plan of a combined hot-house
and greenhouse, each 20 feet wide and 50 feet long, show-
ing the disposition of the boiler and pipes. If this
plan were shown in full on the page, the width would
be quite too small, there-
fore a portion of the length
is left out of each compart-
ment, as shown by the ir-
regular lines; everything is
given in proper proportion
except the length, and thafc
is stated in figures. The
number of pipes indicated,
(10), is sufficient to give a
temperature of from 60° to
70° at night for the hot-
house, and the number given in the greenhouse, (6), is
such as will keep that compartment at from 40° to 50°
in the coldest weather. A sectional view at the end where

the boiler pit is placed is
given in fig. 44, and an-
other sectional view at
the partition between the
greenhouse and hot-house
is shown in fig. 45. The
cost of such a structure
complete for the reception
of plants, would vary ac-
cording to location, and
the style of finish; in the vicinity of New York at pres-
ent prices, such a combined hot-house and greenhouse,
20x100, erected in a substantial manner, would cost
about $3,000.

Fig. 45. — END-VIEW OF FIG. 43, AT

PARTITION BETWEEN THE TWO

HOUSES.

98 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE.

CHAPTER XXX.

GREENHOUSES OR PITS, WITHOUT ARTIFICIAL HEATING.

The directions given for heating greenhouses by hot
water or by flues, apply of course only to sections of the
country where the temperature during the winter months
makes heating a necessity. In many of the southern
states there is no need of artificial heat. A greenhouse
tightly glazed and placed against a building where it is
sheltered from the north and north-west will keep out
frost when the temperature does not fall lower than 25
degrees above zero, and if light wooden shutters are used
to cover the glass, all those classed as "greenhouse"
plants will be safe even at 10
degrees lower, provided, of
course, that the conservatory
is attached to the dwelling,
as shown in fig. 38. Another
cheap and simple method
of keeping plants during
winter in mild latitudes is by FiS- ^.-SUNKEN PET.

the use of the sunken pit or deep frame, which affords
the needed protection even more completely than the eleva-
ted greenhouse. This is formed by excavating the soil to
the depth of from 18 to 36 inches, according to the size
of the plants it is intended to contain. A convenient
width is 6 feet, the ordinary length of a hot-bed sash,
and of such length as may be desired. Great care must
be taken that the ground is such that no water will stand
in the pit ; if the soil is moist it should be drained. The
sides of the pit may be either walled up by a 4 or 8-inch
course of brick work, or planked up as may be preferred,
but in either case the lack wall should be raised about
eighteen inches, and the front about six inches above the

COMBINED CELLAR AND GREENHOUSE. 99

surface, in order to give the necessary slope to receive the
sun's rays and to shed the water. A section of such a
pit is shown in fig. 46. If a pit of this kind is made in
a dry and sheltered position, and the glass covered by
light shutters of half -inch boards, it may be used to keep
all the hardier class of greenhouse plants, even in locali-
ties where the thermometer falls to zero.

CHAPTER XXXI.

COMBINED CELLAR AND GREENHOUSE.

In connection with the description of the cold pit or
greenhouse without fire heat, may be mentioned the com-
bined cellar and greenhouse. Many years ago an acci-
dental circumstance gave me an opportunity of testing
the utility of such a structure. An excavation of 20 feet
by 40 had been made 7 feet deep, and walled up with
stone and beams laid across preparatory to placing a
building upon it, when the owner changed his plans and
found himself with this useless excavation within a dozen
yards of his costly residence. There seemed to be no al-
ternative but to fill it up or plank it over, but both plans
were objectionable, and in discussing how to get out of
the difficulty, I suggested erecting a low-roofed green-
house over it, as the owner had a taste for cultivating
plants. This suggestion was followed, and the walls were
raised one foot above the surface and a span-roofed green-
house erected over it.

My idea, (which was found to be nearly correct), was,
that the large volume of air in the excavation would at
no season go below 40°, and be sufficient to keep the up-
per or greenhouse portion of the structure above the

100 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

freezing point in the coldest weather. This it did com-
pletely when the glass was covered at night with shut-
ters ; and the plants with which it was filled, of a kind
requiring a low temperature, kept in better health than
if they had been grown in a greenhouse having fire heat.

Now, although I have never seen such a combination
since, I am satisfied that in favorable circumstances such
a structure might be made of great utility and at a
trifling cost, for as it dispenses with heating apparatus,
which usually is more than half of the whole cost in all
greenhouses, the use of a cellar and greenhouse could be
had at probably less than the cost of an ordinary green-
house ; and for half hardy plants — plants that will do
well in winter if kept only above the freezing point — such
a greenhouse will be better for many of them than any
kind of greenhouse heated by fire heat. All kinds of
Eoses, Camellias, Azaleas, Zonal Geraniums, Violets,
Cape Jessamines, Carnations, Abutilons, Verbenas, Prim-
ulas, Stevias, and, in short, all plants known as cool
greenhouse plants, will keep in a healthy, though nearly
dormant condition, during the winter months, but they
will flourish with greatly increased vigor at their natural
season of growth, and flowering as spring advances. Be-
sides, the cellar may be used for the ordinary purposes of
such a place ; or if exclusively for horticultural purposes,
no better place can be had for keeping all deciduous
hardy or half hardy plants, Hyacinths in pots to start to
flower, or any bulbs of similar nature. The great point
to be observed is that the soil where such a structure is
to be erected is entirely free from water, or if not so nat-
urally, must be made entirely dry by draining.

The style that I think would suit best for general pur-
poses would be twelve feet in width, and of any length
desired. The excavation should not be less than seven
feet deep, walled up to about one foot above the surface.
When complete it would show something like the section

COMBINED CELLAR AND GREENHOUSE.

101

in fig. 47. If the glass roof is made fixed it should have
ventilating sashes 3x3, at intervals of six or nine feet on
each side of the roof ; if of sashes, they should be seven
feet long by three feet wide, every alternate one being
arranged to move for ventilation in the usual way. The
position of the structure would be best with its ends north

Fig. 47.— GREENHOUSE AND CELLAR COMBINED.

and south. The shutters for covering the glass at night
should be made of light half-inch pine boards, three feet
wide by seven feet long.

It will be understood that the advantage of this com-
bination of cellar and greenhouse over the ordinary cold
pit is that the air of the greenhouse is warmed or equal-
ized by mixing with the atmosphere of the cellar, which
will rarely be less than 40°. For the same reason, if a
high temperature by fire heat were wanted, say 70°, this
large body of air from below of 40° would make it diffi-
cult to obtain it. It will be necessary, of course, to have
the flooring boards covering the cellar wide enough apart
to freely allow the passage of the air; this will at the same
time give light enough for any operations necessary to be
done in the cellar.

102 GAEDENING FOE PLEASUEE.

CHAPTEE XXXII.

HOT-BEDS.

The sunken pit described on page 98 may be readily
converted into a hot-bed ; all that is necessary to do be-
ing .to place hot manure or other heating material in the
pit and tread it moderately firm with the feet. The ma-
nure should fill the pit to the depth of two feet, and then
be covered with five or six inches of light rich soil, on
which to sow the seed. This sunken pit prevents the
escape of heat from the manure much better than when
the hot-bed is made on the surface in the usual way.
The preparation of the heating material for the hot-bed
requires some attention. It should be manure fresh from
the horse-stable, and when they can be procured, it is
better to mix it with about an equal bulk of leaves from
the woods. If the weather is very cold, the bulk of ma-
nure must be of good size, from five to six wagon loads,
thrown in a compact conical heap, else the mass may be
so chilled that fermentation cannot take place and no
heat generated. If a shed is convenient, the manure
may be placed there, especially if the quantity is small,
to be protected from cold until the heat begins to rise.
The heap should be turned and well broken up before
being used for the hot-beds, so that the rank steam may
escape and the manure become of the proper " sweet-
ened " condition for the healthy germination of the seeds.
After the manure has been packed in the pit to the depth
and in the manner described, the sashes should be placed
on the frame and kept close until the heat is again gen-
erated in the hot-bed. Now plunge a thermometer into
the manure, and if all is right it will indicate 100 degrees
or more, but this is yet too hot as bottom heat for the
growth of seeds or plants, and a few days of delay must

HOT-BEDS. 103

be allowed until the thermometer indicates a falling of
10 or 15 degrees, then the soil may be placed upon the
manure and the seeds sown, or plants set out in the hot-
bed. Amateurs are apt to be impatient in the matter of
hot-beds, and often lose their first crop by sowing or
planting before the first violent heat has subsided. An-
other very common mistake is, in beginning too early in
the season. In this latitude nothing is gained by begin-
ning before the first week in March, and the result will
be very nearly as good if not begun until a month later.
There are two or three important matters to bear in
mind in the use of hot-beds. It is indispensable for
safety to cover the glass at night with shutters or mats
until all danger of frost is over, for it must be remem-
bered that the contents of a hot-bed are always tender
from being forced so rapidly by the heat below, and that
the slightest frost will kill them. Again, there is danger
of overheating in day-time by a neglect to ventilate when
the sun is shining. As a general rule it will be safe in
all the average days of March, April, and May, to have
the sash in the hot-bed tilted up from an inch to three
inches at the back from 9 A.M. to 4 P.M. Much will,
of course, depend upon the activity of the heating ma-
terial in the hot-bed, the warmth of the weather, and the
character of the plants in the bed ; so that we can only
give a loose general rule. Numbers of our amateur
friends come to us every season lamenting that them-
selves or their men in charge had omitted to ventilate
their hot-bed, and on their return home from business at
night, found all the contents had been "boiled" up.
Or the complaint may be on the other extreme, that the
plants are frozen through neglect to cover them at night.
A hot-bed requires a certain amount of attention, which
must be given at the right time, or failure is certain.

104 GARDEtflKG FOE PLEASURE.

CHAPTER XXXIII.

SHKUBS, CLIMBERS, AND TREES.

A place is seldom so small that a few choice shrubs
cannot appropriately find room, and in which climbers
are not desirable, while in the larger places these become
important to its proper ornamentation. Whether its size
admits of the use of trees or not, both deciduous and
evergreen shrubs, climbers as well as evergreen trees of
low growth, are indispensable. "We here append a list of
the leading kinds in each class, but which by no means
exhausts the number of desirable varieties ; for the oth-
ers reference may be made to the catalogues of the prin-
cipal nurseries, where also will be found descriptions of
those here named.

HAKDT DECIDUOUS SHBUBS.

Amygdalus nanafl. pi Flowering Almond.

jffisculusparviflora Dwarf Horsechestnut.

£erberis vulgaris — Barberry.

" " var. purpurea Purple Barberry.

Calycanthus floridus Sweet-scented Shrub.

Cldonanfhus Virginica Fringe Tree.

CytisMA elongatus Laburnum.

Cotoneaster microphyUa Small-leaved Cotoneaster.

Cratcegus Pyracantha Pyracanth Thorn.

" oxyacanthafl. pi Hawthorn double white.

" " coccineafl.pl « « Scarlet.

Clethra alnifolia White Alder.

Deutzia scabra Rough Deutzia.

" crenatafl. pi Double *'

" gracilis Slender "

Euonymus atropurpureus Burning Bush.

" latifolius Broad-leaved do.

Forsythia viridissima Golden Bell.

Halesia tetraptera Silver "

Hibiscus Syriacusfl. pi Rose of Sharon, double.

Hydrangea panlculata grandiflora Great-panicled Hydrangea.

" Horiemia Common "

** Japonica Japan ••

Eerria Japonica Japan Globe-flower.

Lonicera Tartarica Tartarian Honeysuckle.

SHRUBS, CLIMBERS, AND TREES. 105

Magnolia glauca Sweet Bay Magnolia.

" conspicua Yulan Tree.

" Soulangeana Soulanges' Magnolia.

PhUadelphus coronarius Mock Orange.

44 nanus " " Dwarf.

Ribes aureum Missouri Currant.

" Gordonianum Gordon's "

Syringa vulgaris Common Lilac.

" alba White "

ftrsica Persian "

" alba " « White.

Spiraea prunifolia fl. pi Plum-leaved Spiraea.

callosa and var. alba Flat-topped "

Reevesii fl. pi Lance-leaved "

Douglasii Douglas' "

hypericifolia St. Peter's Wreath.

Viburnum Opulus Snowball.

" plicatwn Dwarf Snowball.

Weigda rosea Bush-Honeysuckle, Rose.

" " fol.var " " Variegated.

«« nivea " «« White.

" amabalis " " Lovely.

«* Deboisianna «« " Debois'.

Azalea Dmtica, hybrids Belgian Azaleas.

Cercis Japonica Japan Judas Tree.

Pyrus Japonica Japan Quince.

Prunus trUoba Flowering Plum.

Stuartia pentagynia Stuartia.

Symphoricarpus racemosus Snowberry.

HAEDT EVEKGBEEN SHEUBS.

Andromeda floribunda Free-flowering Andomeda,.

Buxus sempervirens arborea Tree-Box.

Biota orientalis Eastern Arbor-Vitae.

Cephalotaxus Fortunii

Daphne Cneorum Garland Flower.

Ilex opaca American Holly.

Juniperus communis var. Swcica Sweedish Juniper.

" <c Sibernica Irish "

" oblonga pendula Weeping "

" squamata Scaled Juniper.

" prostrata Prostrate "

Kalvnm latifolia American Laurel.

Podocarpus Japonica Japan Yew.

Retinispora dbtusa Obtuse-leaved Retinispora.

" plumosa aurea Golden-plumed ••

Rhododendron Catawbiense, hybrids Rhododrendons.

106 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

Taxus baccata, var. Canadensis American Yew.

" " " erecta Upright "

Thuja occidentalis American Arbor-vitas.

" " var. Sihirica Siberian " "

" " " plicata Plicate " "

" " " nana Dwarf " "

HARDY EVERGREEN TREES OP MEDIUM SIZE.

Abies Canadensis Hemlock Spruce.

" " var. Sargenti Sargent's "

tl excelsa Norway "

•* ** var. Gregoryana Gregory's "

•' " " pygmcea Dwarf "

" " " inverta Inverted "

'* nigra pumila Dwarf Black Spruce.

" Fraseri var. Hudsonica Hudson's Bay Fir.

«* pectinata European Silver Fir.

" u var. fastigiata Erect " "

" PicMa Siberian " "

Juniperus Virginiana Red Cedar.

Plnus Strobus White Pine.

" Cembra Swiss Stone Pine.

44 pumilio Dwarf Pine.

" Austriaca Austrian *'

HABDT CLIMBERS.

Ampelopsis quinquefolia Virginia Creeper.

" tricuspidata, ( VietchO) Vietch's "

Akebia quinata Akebia.

Aristolochia SipTio Dutchman's Pipe.

jBignonia grandiflora Large-flowered Trumpet vine

Clematis Flammula Virgin's Bower.

" ViticeUa " "

" azurea, and the various hybrids.

Hedera Helix European Ivy.

This in its many varieties is scarcely hardy at New York.
Lonicera sempervir&ns .• Trumpet Honeysuckle.

" Japonica Japan

" " var. aurea Golden "

" Ftoidymenum English Woodbine.

" « • var. Belgica Dutch Honeysuckle.

" HaUii Hall's

Tecoma radicans Trumpet Creeper.

Wistaria frutescens American Wistaria.

" Sinensis Chinese "

•• " var. alba White "

" " Attenii Allen's "

" magniflca. Magnificent "

HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. 107

CHAPTEK XXXIY.

HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS.

Herbaceous perennials include those hardy plants, the
stems of which die down at the approach of winter, or
earlier if they have completed their growth ; the roots
being hardy, they remain in the same place for several
years in succession. Plants of this class were formerly
more popular than they have been of late years, the taste
for brilliant bedding effects having caused these former
favorites to be neglected. Eecently the taste for peren-
nials has revived, and while they cannot serve as substi-
tutes for what are known as bedding plants, they are ex-
ceedingly useful for those who wish to have flowers with
but little trouble, as most of them can remain for three
or four years without requiring any other care than to
keep them clear of weeds. "When the clumps become too
large they require to be lifted, divided, and re-set in fresh
soil. For the best results it is advisable to re-set most of
them every third year, while some may remain in place
indefinitely, taking care to give them a yearly manuring,
as the vigorous growing ones soon exhaust the soil imme-
diately around them. In setting out these plants, the
taller growing kinds should be placed at the rear of the
border, or in the center if the bed is to be seen from both
sides, while those of the lowest growth are to be placed
at the edge, and those of intermediate size are to be
placed between. A proper selection of these plants will
give a succession from early spring until frost stops all
bloom. Many of these perennials are unchanged from
their natural state, but bloom in our borders just as they
appeared in their native woods and hills in different parts
of the world, and seem to show no disposition to " break"

108 GARDENING FOB PLEASUKE.

or deviate from their normal form, notwithstanding they
have heen in cultivation for a century or two. On the
other hand many have, by sporting, or by hybridizing,
and crossing, as in the case of paeonies, phloxes, irises,
and others, produced many florists varieties, which show
forms and colors not found in the native state of the
plants, and the frequent occurrence of double flowers
among them shows that cultivation has not been without
its influence.

With such a number to select from, it is difficult to
make a list of 25, or even 50, and not leave out many de-
sirable kinds. Those in the following list are all of gen-
erally admitted excellence, and are usually to be obtained
from florists and nurserymen.

It may be added here that there is no part of the coun-
try which does not afford wild flowers of sufficient beauty
to merit a place in the garden, and most of them, except
perhaps those which naturally grow in a deep shade, will
grow larger and bloom finer in a rich border than in their
native localities.

Perennials are propagated by division of the clumps,
by cuttings of the stems, and sometimes of the roots,
and by seeds. In many cases the seeds are very slow of
germination unless sown as soon as ripe. As most of
them do not bloom until the seedlings have made one
year's growth, the seeds should be sown in a reserve bed,
from which at the end of the first summer, or in the fol-
lowing spring, they may be transplanted to the place
where they are to flower. It is well to give the seedlings
some protection the first winter, not because they are not
hardy, but to prevent them from being thrown out of the
soil by frequent freezing and thawing. A covering of
evergreen boughs is most suitable, but if these are not at
hand, use coarse hay or other litter, first laying down
some brush, to keep the covering from matting down
upon them.

HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. 109

Aconitum Napdlus Monkshood.

" variegatum Variegated Monkshood.

Anemone Japonica Japan Windflower.

" var. Hanorine Jobert White Japan "

" PulsatiUa Pasque Flower.

AquUegia alpina Alpine Columbine.

" coerulea Rocky Mt. "

" chrysantfia Golden-spurred Columbine.

•' vulgaris Garden "

Astilbe Japonica (Incorrectly Spiraea.)

Asperula odorata Woodruff.

Baptisia australis False Indigo.

Campanula Carpathica Carpathian Harebell.

" persicifolia Peach-leaved "

" grandiflora Great-flowered a

and others.

Cassia Marilandica Wild Senna.

Clematis erecta Upright Clematis.

" integrifolia Entire-leaved "

Colchicum aulumnale Meadow Saffron.

Convallaria majalis Lily of the Valley.

Delphinium elatum Bee Larkspur.

nudicaule Scarlet "

and others.

Dianthus plumarius Garden Pink.

" superbus Fringed "

Dicentra eximia Plumy Dicentra.

" spectabilis Bleeding Heart.

Dictamnus Fraxinetta Fraxinella.

Dodecatheon Meadia Am. Cowslip.

ErantJiis hiemalis Winter Aconite.

Erica cornea Winter Heath.

FunkAa ovata Blue Day Lily.

" Japonica Japan u

OypsopMa paniculata Panicled Gypsophila.

Helleborus ntyer Christmas Rose.

Sepatica trttoba Liver-leaf.

" "fl.pl Double do.

Ilcris Gibraltarica Gibraltar Candytuft.

44 sempervirens Perennial

Iris Oermanica German Flower de Luce.

« Iberica Iberian " <l "

« pumila Dwarf

and many others of a great range of colors.

Liatris spicata Blazing Star.

" squarrosa " *'

and others.

110 GAEDENLNG FOE PLEASUEB.

IMium auratum Gold-banded Lily,

this, with many other Japanese species in the catalogues, is perfectly
hardy, and there should be a good collection of them in every garden.

Linum perenne Perennial Flax.

Lobelia cardinalis Cardinal Flower.

This native, (also its hybrids), does perfectly well in the drier soil of
the garden.

Lupinus polyphyllus Many-leaved Lupine.

Lychnis Chalcedonica Scarlet Lychnis,

and several others.

Lysimachia nummularia Moneywort.

Mertensia Virginica Virginia Lungwort.

Myosotis palustris Forget-me-not.

' Azorica , Azorian Forget-me-not.

' dissitiflora Early " " "

Narcissus biftonts Primrose Peerless.

' poeticus Poet's Narcissus.

1 Jonquttla Jonquil.

* Pseudo-narcissus Daffodil,

in double and single varieties.

(Enothera Missouriensis Missouri Evening Primrose.

Pceonia offlcinalis Common Paeony,

and the various hydrids of this and other species, of which there are
many fine named sorts.

Pceonia tenuifcHia Fennel-leaved Paeony.

" Moutan Tree •«

of which there are many named varieties.

Papaver orientale Oriental Poppy.

Pentstemon grandiflorus Large-flowered Pentstemon.

" barbatus var. Torreyi Torrey's "

" Palmeri Palmer's "

and several other hardy species.

Phlox, herbaceous French Lilac.

Under this head a great number of florists named varieties may be had.
New ones are offered every year, and a good selection of colors makes a
grand show.

Phlox subulata Moss Pink.

Also the white variety.

Polemonium reptans Jacob's Ladder.

" cceruleum Greek Valerian.

Primula veris Eng. Cowslip.

This and the Polyanthus varieties need a moist and shady place. P.
cortusoicles is hardy, and P. Japonica probably so.

Pyrethrum carneum Rosy Pyrethrum,

the new double varieties.

Saxifraga crassifolia Thick-leaved Saxifrage.

" cordifdia Heart-leaved "

HAKDY HEKBACEOUS PERENNIALS. Ill

Sedum acre Stone crop.

" Sieboldii (and var.) Siebold's Stone crop.

" pulchellum Beautiful " "

" spectabik Showy " "

and a large number of others, presenting a great variety in foliage and
flowers.

Sempervivum arachn&ideum Cobweb Houseleek.

" calearatum Purple-tipped "

" tectorum Common "

Of these curious plants there are more than 50 species in cultivation,
and all perfectly hardy ; useful on rock-work.

Spiraea Jttipendula, (and double) Drop wort.

" palmata Palmate Spiraea.

" Ulmaria Queen of the Meadow.

" venusta Queen of the Prairie.

Symphytum officinale var Variegated Comfrey.

Thalictrum minus Maiden-hair Meadow Rue.

Tritoma uvaria, (and vars.) Red-hot Poker,

needs covering in winter with litter.

Tunica Saxifraga Rock Tunica.

Yucca JUamentosa Bear-Grass.

PERENNIAL ORNAMENTAL GRASSES.

1. Arundo Donax Great Reed.

3. " " versicolor Variegated Reed.

3. " conspicua Silvery "

4. JEriaanthus Ravenna Ravenna grass.

5. Hkdalia Japonica var Japan Eulalia.

6. Festuca glauca. Blue Fescue.

7. Gynerium argenteum Pampas grass.

8. Panicum virgatum Wand-like Panic.

9. PJidlaris arund inacea picta Ribbon grass.

10. Stipapennata Feather grass.

In the climate of New York, Nos. 1, 2 and 7 need protection ; Nos.
1 and 2 by litter over the roots, and No. 7 by covering it with a cask or
box. In the order of their hight, No. 6 is 6 inches, 9 and 10 a foot, 5
and 8, 3 to 4 feet, and 1, 2, 3, 4, and 7 from 6 to 12 feet, according to the
age of the plants.

112 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE.

CHAPTER XXXV.

ANNUAL FLOWERING PLANTS.

To make a selection from the bewildering number of
varieties now offered in our seed catalogues, is an inter-
esting, though it may be sometimes rather a perplexing
operation. It is not very easy to give specific advice in
the matter, as tastes are so varied. We would say, in
general terms though, be shy of "novelties" until you
see them recommended in the lists the second year ; you
may then know that their merits have been tested and
they are given permanent place. We have been import-
ers of all such "novelties" for over twenty years, and
think ourselves lucky if we get one good thing for every
nineteen worthless ones we try. Still, to get the good
things, all that are offered must be tried, and subjected
to the sifting process — separating the chaff from the
wheat. We can only use space to enumerate a few gen-
erally favorite kinds, which we give in the list below; this
comprises such as are of easiest cultivation, and are
most valued for the beauty or fragrance of their flowers.

Asters, Escholtzia, Nasturtiums,

Balsams, Geraniums, Nemophila,

Candytufts, Globe Amaranths, Pansy,

Cannas, Helichrysums, Petunia,

*Canary Bird Flower, Ice Plant, Phlox Drummondii,

Carnations, *Ipomaea, Poppy,

Clarkias, Lobelia, Portulaca,

Cockscombs, Lupines, Scabiosa,

Collinsia, Lychnis, Schizanthus,

*Convolvulus, Marigolds, *Sweet Peas,

*Cypress Vine, Mignonnette, Stocks,

Delphiniums, (Larkspur) Mimosa, (Sensitive-plant) Zinnias,
Dianthus,

Those Marked * are climbers.

I have used the popular and scientific names indis-
criminately in the way they are given in most seed cata-

ANNUAL FLOWERING PLANTS. 113

logues, as this will facilitate reference to them for
descriptions. The rule for the sowing of seeds already
given in the chapter " Propagation of Plants by Seeds,"
applies to sowing the seeds of annuals whether in the hot-
bed or greenhouse, to obtain plants to set in the open
border, or sowing at once in the open border. The cov-
ering of the seeds should in every case be of a light ma-
terial. Thus, if the soil of your flower-garden is hard
and rough, be sure that the surface on which the delicate
seeds are to be sown is made smooth and level, and that
it is covered with a fine light soil, such as leaf-mold, in
the manner described in the chapter referred to. Proba-
bly three-fourths of all the flower-seeds that are sown by
amateurs never germinate, and for no other reason than
that they have not been properly treated. One sows a
tropical seed, such as Portulaca, in March, and wonders
that it does not start to grow; by May, the time it should
be sown in the ground, the spot has become covered with
weeds, and the tiny plant, if it comes now at all, is
choked and killed. Another reverses the order and
wonders that the hardy Pansy seeds which are sown in
June, fail to grow, or if they grow, fail to bloom in the
dog days. Our seed catalogues are nearly all defective in
not giving more specific directions for the culture of an-
nual plants ; if the space used for description of form and
color was devoted to telling the time and manner of sow-
ing, it would be of far more benefit to the amateur buyer,
but nearly all follow the English practice of giving de-
scriptions of varieties only. There the necessity for such
information is less, the people being better informed as to
flower culture, and the climate is also more congenial for
germination of most seeds.

114 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE.

CHAPTER XXXYL

FLOWERS WHICH WILL GROW IN THE SHADE.

There are few plants that will flower in places from
which sunshine is entirely excluded. Some plants will
grow well enough, developing shoots and leaves, but
flowers of nearly all kinds must have some sunshine. Of
those that do well and flower when planted out in the
open ground where sunlight only comes for two or three
hours during the day, may be named the following :
Calceolarias, Fuchsias, Lobelias, Herbaceous Phloxes,
Pansies, Forget-me-nots, Lily of the Valley, and other
herbaceous plants and shrubs whose native habitat is
shady woods. Perhaps a better effect is produced in
such situations by ornamental leaved plants, such as Co-
leuses of all kinds, Amaranths, Achyranthes, Caladi-
ums, Cannas, and other plants with high colored or orna-
mental leaves. With these may be combined the differ-
ent styles of white or gray-leaved plants, such as Centau-
reas, Cinerarias, Gnaphaliums — plants known under the
general popular term of " Dusty Millers." For our own
part we much prefer to devote shaded situations to such
plants, rather than to see the abortive attempts to produce
flowers made by plants in positions where there is no sun-
shine. It may be here remarked that the cultivator of
plants in rooms should understand the necessity of sun-
light to plants that are to flower, and endeavor to get
them as near as possible to a window having an eastern or
a southern aspect. The higher the temperature, the more
plants suffer for the want of light. Many plants, such
as Geraniums, Fuchsias, or Roses, might remain in a
temperature of 40 degrees, in a cellar for example, away
from direct light for months without material injury,
while if the cellar contained a furnace keeping up a tern-

INSECTS. 115

perature of 70 degrees, they would all die before the win-
ter was ended, particularly if the plants were of a half
hardy nature. If tropical species, they might stand it
hotter, but all plants quickly become enfeebled when
kept at high temperature and away from the light.

CHAPTER XXXVH.

INSECTS.

When insects attack plants in the greenhouse, parlor,
or anywhere under cover, we can generally manage to
get them under control, but when they attack plants in
the open air, it is according to our experience, difficult
to destroy them. Insects are injurious to plants in the
open air in two principal ways : some attack the branches
and leaves, and others infest the roots. When insects
attack the roots of a plant, we have been able to do but
little to stop their ravages. We can manage somewhat
better with those attacking the leaves, but even this di-
vision of the enemy is often too much for us. As a pre-
ventive, we would strongly advise that birds of all kinds
should be encouraged. Since the European sparrows
have favored us with their presence in such numbers, in-
sects of nearly all kinds have much decreased. Most
people will remember the disgusting " measuring worm "
that festooned the shade-trees in New York, Brooklyn,
and other cities ten years ago ; these made their exit al-
most in proportion to the increase of sparrows, and now
hardly one is to be seen. The same is true of the Rose
slug. In my rose grounds, a few years ago, we were
obliged to employ a number of boys for weeks during the
summer to shake off and kill the Rose slug in order to

116 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

keep the plants alive, but since we have had the sparrows
in snch numbers, hardly one of these pests is now seen.
An examination of the crop of a sparrow killed in July,
showed that it contained Eose slugs, Aphis, or green-fly,
and the seeds of chickweed and other plants, proving
beyond question the fact that they are promiscuous feed-
ers. The Eose slug, (Selandria TOSCB), referred to above,
is a light green, soft insect, varying from 1\19 of an inch
to nearly an inch in length. There are apparently two
species or varieties, one of which eats only the cuticle of
the lower side of the leaf, the other eats it entire. The
first is by far the most destructive here. In a few days
after the plants are attacked they appear as if they had
been burned. An excellent application for the prevention
of the ravages of the Eose slug is whale-oil soap dissolved
in the proportion of one Ib. to eight gallons of water, this,
if steadily applied daily for a week with a syringe on Eose
plants, before the leaf has developed in spring, will en-
tirely prevent the attacks of the insect. But we find
that if the slug once gets fairly at work, this remedy is
powerless unless used so strong as to injure the leaves.

The Eose-Bug, (Macrodactylus sulspinosus), or Eose
Chaffer, gets its name from the preference it shows for
the buds and blossoms of the Eose, though it is equally
destructive to the Dahlia, Aster, Balsam, and many
other flowers, and especially grape blossoms. All the or-
dinary remedies seem to fail with the Eose-bug, and it
can only be stopped by picking it off by hand.

Green-Fly, or Aphis, is one of the most common, but
fortunately most easily destroyed, of any insect that in-
fests plants, either in-doors or out. In our greenhouses, as
already stated, we fumigate twice a week, by burning
about half a pound of refuse tobacco stems, (made
damp), to every 500 square feet of glass surface, but in
private greenhouses or on plants in rooms, fumigating is
often impracticable. Then the tobacco stems can be

INSECTS. 117

«

used by steeping one pound in five gallons of water, un-
til the water gets to be the color of strong tea. This
liquid applied over and under the leaves with a syringe,
will destroy the insect quite as well as by fumigating,
only in either case the application should be made before
the insects are seen, to prevent their coming rather than
to destroy them when established ; for often by neglect
they get a foothold in such legions that all remedies be-
come ineffectual to dislodge them. Another means of
preventing the green-fly is to apply tobacco in the shape
of dust. The sweepings of tobacco warehouses, which
can be found for sale in most seed or agricultural
establishments, at a cost of five to ten cents per
pound. This applied once or twice a week to an ordinary
sized private greenhouse, would effectually prevent any
injury from green-fly. No special quantity of this need
be prescribed, all that is necessary is to see that it is so
dusted on that it reaches all parts of the plant and on
both sides of the leaves. It is best to slightly syringe
the plants beforehand, so that the dust will adhere to the
leaves. When applied to plants out-doors, it should be
done in the morning when the dew is on. Fruit-trees
of many kinds, shrubs, and Eoses of all kinds, out of
doors, are particularly liable to injury from some species
of Aphis, but the application of tobacco dust, if made in
time, will be found a cheap and effectual remedy.

Ground or Blue Aphis, is a close relative of the pre-
ceeding, but it gets its living from the roots down in the
soil, while the Green Aphis feeds in the air on the leaves.
The Blue Aphis attacks a great many varieties of plants,
particularly in hot, dry weather, and whenever Asters,
Verbenas, Petunias, Centaureas, or such plants begin to
droop, it will be found on examination, in three cases out
of four, that the farthest extremities of their roots are
completely surrounded by the Blue Aphis. The only
remedy we have ever found for this pest is a strong de-

118 GARDENING FOE PLEASURE.

coction of tobacco, made so strong as to resemble strong
coffee in color. The earth around the plants must be
soaked with this so that the lowest roots will be reached.
The tobacco water will not hurt the plants, but will be
fatal to the insect, and if it has not already damaged the
roots to too great an extent, may prove a remedy.

Ants. — These are not usually troublesome unless in
great numbers, yet when they appear in strong force they
are often yery destructive. About the simplest method
we have found to get rid of them, is to lay fresh bones
around the infested plants ; they will leave everything
to feed on these, and when thus accumulated may be
easily destroyed.

The Red Spider is one of the most insidious enemies
of plants, both when under glass and in the open air in
summer. It luxuriates in a hot and dry atmosphere,
and the only remedy that I can safely recommend to am-
ateurs, is copious syringings with water, if in the green-
house, so that a moist atmosphere can be obtained. This,
of course, is not practicable when plants are grown in
rooms, and the only thing that can then be done is to
sponge off the leaves. It is this insect, more than any
thing else, that makes it so difficult to grow plants in the
dry air of the sitting-room, as it may be sapping the
life blood from a plant, and its owner never discover the
cause of his trouble. It is so minute as hardly to be
seen by the naked eye, but its ravages soon show, and if
the leaves of your plants begin to get brown, an exami-
nation of the under-surface of the leaf will usually reveal
the little pests in great numbers. When they get thus
established there is no remedy but to sponge the leaves
thoroughly with water, or weak soapsuds.

The Mealy Bug, as it is generally called, is a white
mealy or downy-looking insect, which is often very trou-
blesome among hot-house plants, but rarely does any
harm amongst those that can live in a cool room, as no

INSECTS. 119

doubt it is a native of some tropical country, and can
only exist in such a temperature as is required by plants
of that kind. There are various remedies used by floristc,
but the use of nearly all of them might do more harm
than good in inexperienced hands, and I therefore advise
that they should only be destroyed by being washed off
such plants as Gardenias, or rubbed off of more tender
leaved plants with a soft brush ; or where there are but
few, they may be readily picked off by the use of a quill
sharpened like a toothpick.

Brown and WJiite Scale Insects. — These appear life-
less, and adhere closely to the stems of such plants as
Oleanders, Ivies, etc. , and like the Mealy Bug are best
destroyed by being washed or rubbed off.

Tlirips. — This is an insect varying in color from light
yellow to dark brown, and much more active in its move-
ments than the Green-Ply, and more difficult to destroy ;
when it once gets a foothold it is very destructive. It
succumbs to tobacco, in any of the forms recommended
for the destruction of Green-Ply, but not so readily. It
luxuriates in shaded situations, and generally abounds
where plants are standing too thickly together, or where
ventilation or light is deficient. It may be safely as-
serted that in any well regulated place where plants
are kept, no injury from insects will ever become serious
if due attention has been given to keeping the atmos-
phere of the place moist, and using tobacco freely in any
of the forms we have recommended.

The Angle Worm. — This is the common worm seen
in every soil in pots and in the open ground. It is
harmless so far as feeding goes, for it seems never to
touch plants as food, but it bores and crawls around in
a way by no means beneficial to pot-grown plants ; it is,
however, easily dislodged ; by slaking a quart of lime
and adding water to make up ten gallons of the liquid,
and watering the plants with it after it has become

120 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE.

clear, tiie caustic qualities of tlie lime will be quickly
fatal to the worm.

CHAPTER XXXYIIL

MILDEW.

Mildew is a parasitical fungus, often seen on greenhouse
and other plants, and is quickly destructive to their health.
But as with all other plant troubles, it is best to prevent
rather than cure. Care should be taken, particularly
where roses or grape vines are grown under glass, as both
of these are especially liable to be attacked, to avoid a
rapid change of temperature, or a long exposure to sud-
den chill by draughts in ventilating. As soon as spots
of grayish-white appear on the leaves of roses or grape-
vines, either out-doors or under glass, it is certain that
mildew is present, but if it has not been neglected too
long, the following preparation will usually be found a
prompt remedy. Take three pounds each of flowers of sul-
phur and quick-lime, put together and slake the lime, and
add six gallons of water ; boil all together until it is re-
duced to two gallons, allow the liquid to settle until it
gets clear, then bottle for use. One gill only of this is
to be mixed in five gallons of water, and syringed over
the plants in the evening, taking care not to use it on the
fruit when ripe, as it would communicate a taste and
smell which would render it useless. Applied in this
weak state, it does not injure the leaves, and yet has the
power to destroy the low form of vegetable growth, which
we call mildew. "We apply it just as we do tobacco, once
or twice a week, as a preventive, and we rarely have a
speck of mildew.

FROZEN" PLANTS. 121

CHAPTER XXXIX.

FROZEN PLANTS.

"When by any mishap the plants, whether in parlor or
greenhouse, become frozen, either at once remove them,
(taking care not to touch the leaves), to some place warm
enough to be just above the point of freezing ; if there
are too many to do that, get up the fire as rapidly as
possible and raise the temperature. The usual advice is
to sprinkle the leaves and shade the plants from the sun.
We have never found either remedy of any avail with
frozen plants, and the sprinkling is often a serious in-
jury if done before the temperature is above the freezing
point. In our experience with thousands of frozen plants,
we have tried all manner of expedients, and found no
better method than to get them out of the freezing at*
mosphere as quickly as possible, and we have also found
that the damage is in proportion to the succulent condi-
tion of the plant, and the intensity of the freezing. Just
what degree of cold plants in any given condition can en-
dure without injury, we are unable to state. Plants are
often frozen so that the leaves hang down, but when
thawed out are found to be not at all injured ; at another
time the same low temperature acting on the same kind
of plants may kill them outright if they happen to be
growing more thriftily, and are full of sap. When the
frost is penetrating into a greenhouse or room in which
plants are kept, and the heating arrangements are inade-
quate to keep it out, the best thing to do is to cover the
plants with paper, (newspapers), or sheeting ; thus pro-
tected, most plants will be enabled to resist four or five
degrees of frost ; paper is rather better than sheeting for
this purpose.
6

122 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

CHAPTER XL.

MULCHING.

Litter of any kind placed around newly planted trees
to prevent evaporation from the soil, was the original
meaning of mulch, but' it is at present extended to in-
clude a covering of the soil applied at any time, and for
very different purposes. Good cultivators apply hay,
straw, or other litter to the surface of the soil to protect
the roots of certain plants against the action of frost, it
being useful, not so much against freezing as to prevent
the alternate freezing and thawing, that is apt to occur
in our variable and uncertain climate, even in mid-win-
ter. As mentioned under strawberry culture, the mulch
applied in the fall protects the roots during winter, it is
allowed to remain on the bed where, if thick enough, it
keeps down weeds, and prevents the evaporation of mois-
ture from the soil during the dry time we are apt to have
between the flowering and the ripening of the strawberry.
Besides all this, it makes a clean bed for the fruit to rest
upon, and should a driving shower come up as the fruit
is ripening, there is no danger that the berries will be
splashed with mud and spoiled. The utility of a mulch
is not confined to the strawberry among fruits ; raspber-
ries and currants are much benefitted by it, and by its
use a gardener of my acquaintance succeeds in growing
fine crops of the fine varieties of English gooseberries, a
fruit with which very few succeed in our hot summers.
Newly planted trees, whether of fruit or ornamental
kinds, are much benefitted by a mulch, and its applica-
tion often settles the question of success or failure. We
have known a whole pear orchard to be mulched, and the
owner thought its cost was more than repaid by saving

MULCHING. 123

the fallen fruit from bruises. The rooting of a layer is
by some gardeners thought to be facilitated by placing a
flat stone over the buried branch ; the fact being that
the stone acts as a mulch, and prevents the soil around
the cut portion from drying out, and greatly favors the
rooting process. Even in the vegetable garden, mulch-
ing is found useful, especially with cauliflowers, which
find our summers quite too dry. The material of the
mulch is not of much importance, the effect being purely
mechanical, one kind of litter will answer as well as an-
other ; the material will be governed in great measure by
locality ; those living near salt water will find salt-hay,
as hay from the marshes is called, the most readily pro-
cured ; those who live near pine forests use the fallen
leaves, or pine needles as they are called ; in the grain
growing districts straw is abundant, and nothing can be
better ; it can be applied more thoroughly if run through
a cutter, though the thrashing machine often makes it
short enough. Leaves are nature's own mulch, and an-
swer admirably ; if there is danger of their being blown
away, brush laid over them, or even a little earth sprink-
led on them will keep them in place. Tan-bark and saw-
dust may serve for some uses, but they are very bad for
strawberries, their finer particles being about as objec-
tionable as the soil. One of the best materials to use for
summer mulching is the green grass mowed from lawns.
This applied to the thickness of two or three inches
around the roots of all kinds of small fruits, will be
found not only to greatly benefit the crop, particularly in
dry weather, but will save greatly in labor by preventing
the growth of weeds. One of our best private gardeners
in the vicinity of New York has adopted this summer
mulching with the grass from the lawn for nearly twenty
years, and has succeeded in growing all kinds of small
fruits in the highest degree of perfection.

124 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

CHAPTER XLL

ARE PLANTS IN ROOMS INJURIOUS TO HEALTH?

The question whether plants may be safely grown
in living rooms is now settled by scientific men, who
show that whatever deleterious gases may be given
out by plants at night they are so minute in quantity
that no injury is ever done by their presence in the
rooms and by being inhaled. Though we were glad
to see the question disposed of by such authority, ex-
perience had already shown that no bad effects ever
resulted from living in apartments where plants were
grown. Our greenhouses are one mass of foliage, and I
much doubt if any healthier class of men can be found
than those engaged in the care of plants. But timid per-
sons may say that the deleterious gases are given out only
at night, while our greenhouse operatives are only em-
ployed in daylight. This is only true in part. Our
watchmen and men engaged in attending to fires at
night make the warm greenhouses their sitting-room and
their sleeping-room, and I have yet to hear of the first
instance where the slightest injury resulted from this
practice. Many of our medical practitioners run in old
ruts. Some Solomon among them probably gave out this
dogma a century ago, it was made the convenient scape-
goat of some other cause of sickness, and the rank and
file have followed in his train. A belief in this error
often consigns to the cellar, or to the cold winds of win-
ter, the treasured floral pets of a household.

SHADING. 125

CHAPTER XUI.

SHADING.

In mulching the object is to prevent evaporation from
the soil, as well as to shield the roots from sudden
changes of temperature ; it is often necessary to protect
the whole plant in this respect, and this is- accomplished
by shading. Although on a large scale, we can do little
in the way of shading plants in the open ground, yet the
amateur will often find it of great utility, as screening
will frequently save a recently transplanted plant, which
without it would be quite ruined by a few hours' exposure
to the sun. For shading small plants in the border, such
as transplanted annuals, a few shingles will be found very
useful, one or two of these can be stuck in the ground so
as to completely protect the delicate plant and yet not
deprive it of air. Six-inch boards of half-inch stuff
nailed together to form a V shaped trough are very use-
ful in the garden ; they are handy to place over small
plants during cold nights, and may be turned over and
set to make a screen against strong winds, or used for
shading plants in rows. Seedlings often suffer from the
heat of the sun in the middle of the day ; the seedlings
of even the hardiest forest trees are very delicate when
young. The seeds of such trees when sown naturally al-
most always fall where the young plant will be shaded,
and the amateur who experiments in this very interesting
branch of horticulture, the raising of evergreen and de-
ciduous trees and shrubs from seed, will find it necessary
to imitate nature and protect his young seedlings from
the intense heat of the sun. There are several ways of
doing this ; if the seeds have been sown in an open bor-
der, let him take twigs about a foot long, evergreen if

126 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

they can be had, but if not, those from any deciduous
tree, and stick them a few inches apart all over the bed.
This will give the seedlings very much such a protection
as they would naturally have had in the shade of other
plants, and though evergreens will look better for a while,
the dead leaves of deciduous twigs will give quite as use-
ful a shade. It is always safer to sow seeds in a frame,
as the young plants are then under more complete con-
trol. Frames are easily shaded by means of a lattice
made of common laths. Strips of inch stuff an inch and
a half or two inches wide, are used for the sides of the
lattice, and laths are nailed across as far apart as their
own width. One lath being nailed on, another is laid
down to mark the distance, the third one put down and
nailed, and the second lath is moved along to mark the
distance for the fourth, and so on. With a screen of this
kind there is abundant light, but the sun does not shine
long at a time on one spot, and the plants have a con-
stantly changing sun and shade. This lath screen may
be used for shading plants in the open ground if sup-
ported at a proper hight above them. In a propagating
house, where it is necessary, as it often is, to shade cut-
tings, a lattice laid upon the outside of the glass answers
a good purpose. The laths are sometimes tied together
with strong twine, the cord answering the place of slats,
and serving as a warp with which the laths are woven ;
the advantage of a screen of this kind is that it can bo
rolled up. Plants kept in windows during the summer
months will, if in a sunny exposure, require some kind
of a shade, and if the one provided to keep the sun from
the room shuts out too much light, or excludes air as
well as sun, something must be provided which will give
protection during the heat of the day, and still allow
sufficient light and an abundant circulation of air. Any
one with ingenuity can arrange a screen of white cotton
cloth to answer the purpose.

SHADING. 127

The old practice of stripping the greenhouse in sum-
mer is falling into disuse, and by a proper selection of
plants and sufficient shade, it is made as attractive then
as at any other season, but even for tropical plants the
glass must be shaded. For a small lean-to, a screen of
light canvass or muslin arranged upon the outside, so
that it may be wound up on a roller when not wanted
will answer, and if it be desired to keep the house as cool
as possible, this should be so contrived that there will be
a space of six inches or so between that and the glass.
But upon a large house, or one with a curvilinear roof,
this is not so manageable, and the usual method is to coat
the glass with some material which will obstruct a part
of the light. The most common method is to give the
outside of the glass a coat of ordinary lime whitewash ;
this makes a sufficient shade, and is gradually dissolved
by the rains, so that by autumn the coating is removed,
or so nearly so that what remains may be readily washed
off. A more pleasant effect is produced by spattering the
glass with the same wash, which can be done by a dex-
terous use of the brush and flirting it so as to leave the
wash in numerous fine drops, like rain-drops. Others
use whiting and milk for the same purpose. Whatever
may be the means of effecting it, we find that in this lat-
itude shading of some kind is required from about the 1st
of May to the middle of September by nearly all plants
grown under glass. Ferns, Lycopods, Caladiums, Primu-
las, Fuchsias, Begonias, Gloxinias, Achimenes, Lobelias,
Smilax, and plants of that character require the glass to be
heavily shaded, while for Roses, Carnations, Bouvardias,
Poinsettias, Geraniums of all kinds, and nearly all suc-
culent plants, do not need so much. The method of
spattering the glass outside with thin whitewash, allows
the shading to be light or heavy, as required. "When
first done, it is spattered very thinly, merely to break the
strong glare of the sun, just about thick enough to half

128 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

cover ftie surface. As the season advances, the spatter-
ing should be repeated to increase the shade, but at no
time for the plants last mentioned do we entirely cover
the glass. In England, especially for fern houses,
Brunswick green mixed with milk is used, to give a
green shade, which is thought to be best suited to these
plants. The blue glass for greenhouses which was so
highly lauded a few years ago, has not met with much
favor, but recent experiments in glazing with ground
glass have given such results as to warrant a more careful
investigation into the use of this material.

CHAPTER XLIII.

THE LAW OF COLOR IN FLOWERS.

I refer to this matter in the hope that it may be the
means of saving some of my readers, not only from being
duped and swindled, by a class of itinerant scamps that
annually reap a rich harvest in disposing of impossibili-
ties in flowers, but that I may assure them of the utter
improbability of their ever seeing such wonders as these
fellows offer, thereby saving them from parting with
money for worthless objects, and from the ridicule of
their friends who are already better advised. This sub-
ject cannot be too often brought before our amateur hor-
ticulturists. Warnings are given year after year in lead-
ing agricultural and other journals devoted to gardening,
yet a new crop of dupes is always coming up who readily
fall victims to the scoundrels who live upon their credu-
lity. Not a season passes but some of these swindling
dealers have the audacity to plant themselves right in

THE LAW OF COLOE IN FLOWERS. 129

the business centers of our large cities, and hundreds of
our sharp business men glide smoothly into their nets.
The very men who will chuckle at the misfortunes of
a poor rustic when he falls into the hands of a mock
auctioneer, or a pocket-book dropper, will freely pay $10
for a rose plant of which a picture has been shown them
as having a blue flower ; the chance of its coming blue
being about equal to the chance that the watch of the
mock auctioneer will be gold. It has long been known
among the best observers of such matters, that in certain
families of plants, particular colors prevail, and that in
no single instance can we ever expect to see Wue, yellow,
and scarlet colors in varieties of the same species. If any
one at all conversant with plants will bring any family of
them to mind, it will at once be seen how undeviating
is this law. In the Dahlia we have scarlet and yellow,
but no approach to blue, so in the Eose, Hollyhock, etc.
Again in the Verbena, Salvia, etc., we have scarlet and
blue, but no yellow ! If we reflect it will be seen that
there is nothing out of the order of nature in this arrange*
ment. We never expect to see among our poultry with
their varied but somber plumage, any assume the azuro
hues of our spring Blue-bird, or the dazzling tints of the
Oriole ; why then should we expect nature to step out
of what seems her fixed laws, and give us a blue Eose,
a blue Dahlia, or a yellow Verbena ?

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

PRUNING. 133

CHAPTEE XLIY.

PEUNING.

Though the chapter on pruning is placed at the com-
mencement of that division of the work which treats
upon fruits, the fact must not be lost sight of that prun-
ing is often quite as necessary upon trees and shrubs cul-
tivated for their flowers or foliage as upon those grown
for their fruit. In pruning we cut away some portion of
a tree, shrub, or other plant, for the benefit of that which
remains, and whether performed upon a branch six inches
through, or upon a shoot so tender as to be cut by the
thumb-nail, is essentially the same. The operation,
though very simple, is one which the amateur often
fears to undertake, and having no confidence in his
own ability, he often employs some jobbing gar-
dener, who has no fears on this or any other gar-
dening matter. Pruning is done for various ends,
and unless one has a definite reason for doing it, he had
better leave it undone : Many have an idea that pruning
must, for some reason, be done every year, just as it used
to be thought necessary for people to be bled every spring,
whether well or ill. We prune to control the shape of a
tree or shrub, and by directing the growth from one part
to another, obtain a symmetrical form, especially in fruit
trees, where it is desirable that the weight of fruit be
equally distributed. In some trees where the fruit is
grown only on the wood of the previous season, the bear-
ing portions are each year removed further and further
from the body of the tree ; in such cases a shortening of
the growth each year will cause the formation of a com-
pact head instead of the loose straggling that results
when this is omitted. We prune to renew the vigor of a
plant ; the inexperienced cannot understand how cutting

134 GAEDEHIKG FOE PLEASUKE.

away a third, a half, or even more of a plant can improve
it in vigor and fruitfulness, or abundance and size of
flowers. Let us suppose that a stem which grew last year
has 20 buds upon it; if this is allowed to take its own course
in the spring, a few of the upper buds will push with
great vigor, and form strong shoots ; those below will
make gradually weaker shoots, and for probably the lower
third of the stem the buds will not start at all; the most
vigorous growth is always at the top, the buds there were
the last formed in the previous summer, are the most
excitable, and the soonest to grow the next spring, and
getting the start of those below them, they draw the
nourishment to themselves and starve the others. If,
instead of allowing this stem to grow at will in this man-
ner, it had been, before any of the buds started, cut
back to leave only a few of the lower ones, those hav-
ing an abundance of nutriment would push forth with
great vigor and be nearly equal in size, while the flowers or
fruit borne upon them would be greatly superior to those
upon the unpruned stem. Any one can readily be con-
vinced of the utility of pruning by taking two rose-bushes
of equal size, leaving one without any pruning to take
care of itself, and each spring cutting the other back se-
verely, pruning away one-third or one-half of the wood
that was formed the previous season. The result at the
end of two years will be very striking. No general rule
can be given for pruning ; the amateur should use his
eyes, and notice the habit of growth of his trees and
shrubs. He will find that many, like the rose, produce
their flowers upon the new wood of the present season,
and that such plants are greatly benefitted by cutting
back more or less each spring. But there are other
plants for which this .treatment will not answer ; if we
examine a horse-chestnut-tree, or a lilac-bush, and many
others, we shall find that the flowers come from the large
buds that were formed on the end of last season's growth,

PKUSTIKG. 135

and that to cut back such plants would be to remove all
the flower-buds. "With shrubs of this kind, all that need
be done is to thin out the branches where they are too
crowded. These examples will warn the novice against
indiscriminate pruning, and unless as he stands before
his shrub or tree, knife in hand, he knows why he is to
prune and how, let him put his knife in his pocket, and
give the plant the benefit of the doubt. While under
the different fruits we can give directions for the partic-
ular pruning required by each, the proper method of
treating a miscellaneous collection of ornamental shrubs
and trees can only be learned by observation. The term
pruning is generally applied to the cutting away, in whole
or in part, of the ripened wood, but much pruning may
be done by the use of the thumb and finger ; this is
termed pinching, and is practiced upon young shoots
while they are yet soft. This most useful form of prun-
ing allows us to control the form of a plant with the
greatest ease, and is applied not only to soft-wooded
plants, but to trees and shrubs, and may be so performed
on these as to render nearly, if not quite, all pruning of
ripened wood unnecessary. If a vigorous shoot has its
end or " growing point" pinched out it will cease to
elongate, but will throw out branches below, the growth
of which may be controlled in the same manner; the
blackberry illustrates the utility of this kind of pruning ;
the rampant growing shoot which springs up from the
root will, if left to itself, make a long cane six or eight
feet high, and with a very few branches near the top ; if
when this shoot has reached four, or at most five feet,
its end be pinched off, it will then throw out numerous
branches, and*if the upper branches, when they reach the
length of 18 inches, be " stopped," (as it is called), in a
similar manner, by pinching, the growth will be directed
to the lower ones, and by the end of the season instead
of a long, unmanageable wand, there will be a well-

136

QAEDENIKG FOB PLEASURE.

branched busli which will bear its fruit all within reach.
The grower of plants in pots is usually afraid to remove
eyen a single inch of the stem, and the result is usually
a lot of " leggy" specimens not worth the care that is
otherwise bestowed upon them. Plants may be prevented
from ever reaching this condition, if their growth be
properly controlled by pinching ; but if they have once
reached it, they should be cut back severely, and a com-
pact bushy form obtained from the new shoots which will
soon start. The mechanical part of pruning is very sim-
ple, a sharp knife is the best implement, as it makes a
clean cut, without bruising
the bark, and the wound
quickly heals ; but shears are
much easier to handle, and
the work can be done so
much more quickly, that they
are generally preferred, and
for rampant growing bushes
will answer, but upon fruit-
trees, and choice plants gen-
erally, the knife is to be pre-
ferred. The cut should be
made just at a joint ; not so
far above it as to leave a
stub, as in fig. 49, which will die back to the bud, there
being nothing to contribute to its growth ; nor should it
be made so close to the bud as to endanger it, as in fig.
48 ; the cut should start just opposite the lower part of
the bud and end just above its top, as in fig. 50. For
the removal of branches too large to cut with the knife,
as must sometimes be done on neglected "trees, a saw is
required. Saws are made especially for the purpose, but
any narrow one with the teeth set wide will answer ; the
rough cut left by the saw should be pared smooth, and if
an inch or more in diameter, the wound should be cov-

Fig. 48. Fig. 49. Fig. 50.

WHERE TO CUT IN PRUNING.

PRUNING.

137

ered ; ordinary paint, melted grafting wax, or shellac
varnish will answer to protect the bare wood from air and
moisture, and prevent decay.

In pruning it is well to remember that the future
shape of the tree will be materially affected by the
position upon the branch of the bud to which the
cut is made ; the upper bud left on the branch will
continue the growth, and the new shoot will be in the
direction of that bud. If
a young tree is, as in fig.
51, to have all its branches
shortened, and each is cut
to a bud, A, pointing to-
wards the center of the tree,
the tendency of the new
growth will all be inward,
as in fig. 52 ; while if all
be cut to an outside bud,
B, the result will be to
spread the growth, as in
fig. 53. As to the time of
pruning, about which there
has been much discussion,
it may be done on small
stems at any time after the
fall of the leaf, before the growth starts in the spring,
but for the removal of large branches, late in winter is
regarded as the best time. Pinching is of course done
whenever it is needed.

Fig. 51. Fig. 52. Fig. 53.

PRUNING FOB SHAPE.

138 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

CHAPTEK XLV.

HARDY GRAPES.

Grapes can be grown in almost any soil, provided it is
not a wet one, although the grape will take abundance of
water when in a growing state, it must pass off quickly,
else the growth will be impeded. If the ground is not
naturally suitable, (i. e. , at least a foot in depth of good
soil), a border prepared in the manner recommended in
the chapter on " Cold Grapery," will well repay the
trouble. It is imperative that the position where the
vine is planted be such as will enable it to get sunlight
for the greater portion of the day. Ten years ago I
planted an arbor with an arched top and 100 feet long by
16 feet wide and 10 feet high, covering a walk running
east and west ; this gave a south and north exposure.
The crop has always been excellent and abundant on the
south side, and top of the arbor, but on the north
side, (unless the first and second years of fruiting,
when there was not sufficient foliage to impede the light),
it has been nearly a failure. There is much misconcep-
tion as to what should be the age of a grape-vine when
planted ; nine-tenths of our amateur customers ask for
vines three or four years old. If a vine of that age could
be properly lifted with every root unbroken, then there
might be some advantage in its greater strength, but as
vines are usually grown in the nurseries closely together,
with the roots all interlaced, large plants can rarely be got
with roots enough to support the vine and maintain its
vigor after transplanting. As a rule it is better to plant
one or two-year-old vines, which can usually be bought
at half the price of those of three or four years old, and

HARDY GRAPES.

139

which in all probability will give a crop quite as soon, if
not sooner, than the large ones. The manner of plant-
ing the vine is similar to that of setting any other tree or
shrub. The ground must be thoroughly broken up, not
in a mere hole only sufficient to hold the roots, but if a
regular border has not been made, the place where each
vine is to be planted, should not be less than three feet
in diameter, and if double that, all the better, and to the
depth of not less than a foot. On receiving the vine
from the nursery, it may consist of one or more shoots,

Fig. 54. — VINE WITH TWO SHOOTS.

Fig. 55. — VINE WITH ARMS.

but on planting it should be cut back to only two or three
eyes or buds. On starting to grow, all of these buds or
eyes should be rubbed off except one, selecting the strong-
est. Train this shoot perpendicularly to a stake the first
year of its growth, tne next fall, when the leaves drop,
cut it back to nine or ten inches from the ground. When
the vine starts the next spring, rub off all eyes or buds
except two, which during the season will form two canes,
as in fig. 54. These, if they are canes half an inch in

140

GARDENING FOE PLEASURE.

diameter, are in fall to be pruned to three or four feet
long, and the following spring are to be trained hori-
zontally, one to the right, the other to the left. If at
the end of the second year they are still small, it is
better to delay laying down the arms until another
year, and grow two upright shoots again, to get
them sufficiently strong. These will form the base from
which to start the upright shoots, as shown in fig. 55.
These upright growths will be the permanent fruiting
canes, and should be from 15 to 18 inches apart, and
pruned on what is known as the spur system as shown

Fig. 56.— VINE SPUR-PRUNED.

by fig. 56. There is nothing arbitrary as to the hight
these canes should be. It is a matter of convenience or
taste whether they be trained to 3 feet or 15 feet.
Vines thus treated may be allowed to produce a few
bunches the third year, and by the sixth year, may be
fruited to the hight of 10 or 12 feet of cane if desired.
Not more than two bunches of fruit should be allowed to
each shoot. We give this manner of training as one of
the simplest, although the system of training has but
little to do with the crop.

The distance apart at which grape-vines may be plant-
ed, except the Delaware and a few of the weaker grow-
ing sorts, is about eight feet ; the Delaware may be set
one-third closer. Although grape-vines are hardy in
nearly all sections, yet in any locality where the ther-

HARDY GRAPES. 141

mometer falls to zero, it is beneficial to lay them down
close to the ground and cover them up with rough litter
before the approach of severe weather in winter, allowing
it to remain on in spring until the buds begin to swell,
when the vines are uncovered and tied up to the trellis.
If covered in this way they should be pruned before lay-
ing down. Pruning may be done at any time from No-
vember to March. It is a common belief that grape-vines
should be pruned only at certain seasons. The weather
must not be too cold, otherwise it is supposed they may
be injured if then pruned. Again, they must not be
pruned late in the spring, else the sap oozing from the
cuts may bleed them to death. Let me say that both
these notions are utter nonsense. The pruning of any
tree or vine in the coldest weather cannot possibly injure,
and the "bleeding" or running of the sap after any or-
dinary pruning, can no more hurt the vine than the
blood flowing from a pin scratch would weaken a healthy
man. This method of covering up the grape-vine is not
commonly practised, but we are satisfied that in exposed
positions it is well worth the trouble. I have practised
it with vines now ten years old, embracing some 20 vari-
eties ; my soil is a stiff clay very unsuitable for the grape,
yet these vines have kept clear of mildew, when my
neighbor's vines a few hundred yards off have been seri-
ously injured by it. I have long believed that intense
cold, long continued, is hurtful to even such plants as we
call hardy, and the wonderful vigor of these old vines,
so treated, seems a good evidence of it.

The litter used in covering, (which has become well-
rotted by spring), is spread over the border, acting both
as a summer mulch and fertilizer. Mildew is the worst
enemy to the vine ; the same remedy we recommend in
this book for mildew on roses, will be found equally effi-
cacious for the grape. On the large scale dry sulphur is
used, blown upon the vines by a bellows for the purpose.

142

GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

Fig. 57.

CUTTING.

Propagation of the grape is done by nurserymen in green-
houses, similar to that used for propagating
florists plants. But most of the varieties can
be grown with fair success by cuttings in the
open air. The cuttings, (made from the
young, well ripened shoots of the previous
year's growth), may be made with two (fig. 57)
or three buds or eyes, planted in rows, say one
foot apart and three inches between the cut-
tings, and set so that the top eye or bud only
is above ground. The situation where the
cuttings are placed should be well exposed
to the sun, the soil rich and deep, and of
sandy or light character. Care must be
taken that the cutting is well firmed in the
soil. The cuttings may be made from the
primings at any time during winter, and
kept in a damp cellar or buried outside
in sand until planted in the cutting-bed in the spring.

THE VARIETIES OF THE GRAPE

Now number many hundred, and we will recommend
only a very few of the most distinct sorts that have been
grown long enough to allow us to be certain of their
merits.

Concord is perhaps more universally cultivated than
any other. It grows most luxuriantly, bearing bunches
of large size abundantly ; color black, with a rich blue
bloom ; the flavor is of average quality. Eipens during
the month of September.

Hartford Prolific. — Eesembles the Concord in general
appearance, but ripens two or three weeks earlier. It is
valuable on this account, but in light soils drops its fruit
badly, which is quite a drawback.

lona. — Is a seedling of the old Catawba, color pale red,

HARDY GEAPES. 143

flavor excellent, fully equal fco the Catawba, but it is pref-
erable to that variety in ripening fully a month earlier,
or from the 1st to 15th of September. One of the best,
where it succeeds ; it requires a strong soil.

Delaware. — Its entirely distinct character from any of
our hardy grapes, at one time raised the question whether
this was not a foreign variety, but that point we believe
is now settled, and it is conceded to be a native. In
flavor it is unsurpassed, equal to many of our best foreign
sorts. Bunches and berries small, of a dark pinkish red
color.

Rogers9 Hybrids. — These varieties, probably from the
unfortunate mistake made by their raiser in designating
them by numbers instead of by names, have never, we
think, had the popularity they deserve. Some of them
are entirely distinct in color and flavor from any other
native grapes, and form magnificent bunches. No. 4 (now
called Wilder), has berries and bunches of the largest size,
black with rich bloom, flavor excellent, ripens September
first. No. 15, (Agawam), is a beautiful grape of a
bronze color, with pinkish bloom on the side next the
sun. It ripens early in September, and we find every
season that the grape consumers of our household rarely
touch a bunch of any other grape as long as any are
left on No. 15. No. 1, (Gcathe), is about the size and
color of the white Malaga grape of commerce, tinged
with pink on the sunny side, flavor excellent, one of the
latest, ripening here in October. No. 19 resembles No.
4, but of an entirely distinct flavor, by some preferred ;
ripens 15th of September.

144 GARDENING FOE PLEASURE.

CHAPTER XLVL

THE COLD GRAPERY.

I know of no addition to a country home from which
such a large amount of satisfaction can be obtained at so
small an outlay as from a grapery for growing the differ-
ent varieties of foreign grapes. It has been proved that
none of these fine varieties can be cultivated with any sat-
isfaction in any part of the northern or even middle
states, except under glass. In California and some other
states and territories west of the Mississippi the varie-
ties of the European grape have been extensively grown
in the open air. There the conditions of climate are
such as to make their culture a success equal to that at-
tained any where in Europe. Besides the luxury of the
grape as a table fruit, no finer sight can be seen, and there
is nothing of which an amateur gardener may be more
proud than a grapery in which the vines are loaded with
ripe fruit. And as this can be obtained at a trifling
original outlay, and with but little attention in the culti-
vation afterwards, I will briefly describe how to do it.

Our climate is particularly well adapted to the cultiva-
tion of vines under glass without fire heat, and the won-
der is that cold graperies are not in more general use
even by people of moderate means than they at pres-
ent are. We built one for our own use on the plan shown
on page 92; it answering for a greenhouse as well as
for a grapery. The dimensions are 50 feet long by
25 wide. It is finished in very good style, and cost but
little more than $1,000. It was planted in June, and
the third year from planting we cut upwards of 300 Ibs.
of fruit from it ; the next season it yielded nearly double
that quantity. The building was begun by setting locust
posts four feet apart ; on these was framed the sill, on

THE COLD GRAPERY. 145

the front of which were placed upright sashes two and a
half feet in hight, and on these the gutter. From the
gutter was sprung the bars, ten inches apart each way,
running on the east side clear to the ridge pole ; on the
west framed to within 2 feet of it, so as to give room for
lifting sashes. These were two feet wide by six long.
To these sashes, eight in number, were attached Hitch-
ing's patent ventilating apparatus, which by turning a
crank opens these sashes from one to twenty-four inches,
as desired. The front sashes may be made so that
every alternate one can open outward. The glass used
is known as second quality English or French, 8 x 10
inches, and put in without the use of any putty on
the top of the glass, the manner of glazing being to
" bed" the pane in soft putty, pressing it down tightly,
and then tacking in the glass with large glazing points
about the size shown in fig. 58;
we find it an excellent plan in
glazing to turn up the edge of
these points as in fig. 59, so that

they can catch under the edge of Fig. 53. Fig. 59.

the lapping pane to keep it in TIN. BENT TIN.

place, otherwise it would slip down, and give a great deal
of trouble. Glaziers will not use the points in this way
unless compelled to do so, as it takes a somewhat longer
time. Glass should never be lapped more than a quarter
of an inch, if much more, the water gets between the
laps, and when it freezes the glass is cracked. With
these instructions about the erection of the glass and
wood-work, any intelligent mechanic should be able to
build from the plan given. Provision for water should be
made by building a cistern inside the grapery, say four
feet deep by eight feet in diameter, or that capacity in an
oblong shape would be better. This cistern can be sup-
plied by water from the roof, having a waste-pipe for
overflow. These general directions for such a structure
7

146

GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

as shown in the cut, are equally applicable for almost any
size or kind of grapery. Many are built in the form of a
"lean-to," that is, placed against any building or fence,
using such for the back wall of the grapery. This would
necessitate only the low front wall, which need not be
more than one foot from the ground, if the width is but
ten or twelve feet, but a path would require to be sunk
inside to give room to stand upright. The sketch, fig.

Fig. 60.— LEAN-TO GRAPERY.

60, shows an outline of a "lean-to" grapery twenty feet
wide, nine feet high at back and two feet in front. Such
a structure, (exclusive of the " border,") may be put up
roughly at a cost not exceeding $4 per running foot,
without heating apparatus. Its aspect may be any point
from east to south-west.

I recollect that some dozen years ago a German jeweler
in Jersey City, N. J., grew a splendid crop of Black Ham-
burgs on vines which had been planted against the
rear fence of his city lot, by placing against the fence
some old sashes eight feet long. It was rather a bung-
ling sort of an arrangement and awkward to get at, but
it served the purpose of ripening the Hamburg grapes,
which could not have been done without the glass. When
one contemplates the erection of a complete range of gra-

THE COLD GRAPERY. 147

peries, the services of a competent garden architect should
be engaged. The border of the one we have in use was be-
gun by excavating the natural soil to the depth of twenty
inches and fifteen feet in width, for the length of the
grapery on each side. The inside was left untouched,
the borders being entirely outside. The bottom of the
excavation was graded from the front of the building to
the outside of the borders, with a fall of about an inch
to a foot, so that thorough and rapid drainage would be
sure to be attained. At the extremity of each border a
drain was built to carry off the water. The whole bot-
tom was then cemented over so as to prevent the roots
from penetrating the subsoil. This pit was then filled to
the depth of about two feet, (four inches being allowed
for settling), with a compost which was previously pre-
pared by mixing about three parts of turf taken from the
surface of a rather shaly pasture, one part of rotten stable
manure, and one part of lime rubbish.

It is one of the popular errors that vines for graperies
should be two or three years old; the age of a vine usually
has but little to do with its size, and if grape-vines are
properly grown the first year from cuttings, they will be
quite as good for planting as if two or three years old.
In fact it is a question whether a vine grown from a cut-
ting in March, and planted in June, is not quite as good
as one a year older. Our experience has shown that there
is hardly a perceptible difference in the two at the end of
the season ; as such vines, however, are too tender to be
shipped far, we generally recommend buying one year old
vines that may be planted in April, May, or June, hav-
ing ripened shoots about three feet in length. These
vines are all grown in pots the previous season, and when
received the soil should be shaken off entirely, and the roots
spread out in the border without injuring them. The
root, it will be understood, is planted outside in the bor-
der, and the shoot taken inside, through an . opening in

148 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

the walls. This is made of brick or stone, and should be
left open at every three feet, the distance at which the
vines should be planted ; if the wall is of wood, it can
easily be cut to suit the size of the vine. The plants we
used were strong one-year-old vines, and were set about
June 1st. By October they had grown to over twenty
feet in length. The varieties used were nine-tenths
Black Hamburg, with a few Muscats and Frontignans,
all of which have done exceedingly well.

In November they were cut back to the bottom of the
rafter, or about three feet from the ground, and quickly
reached the top again the second year, with firm, well-
ripened wood. In November they were again pruned
back to about three feet above the foot of the rafter, or
six feet from the ground. On this shoot was produced
the fruit referred to, (the third year from the time of
planting). We prune any time in November or Decem-
ber after the leaves have fallen, and cut the shoot back
to about four feet from top of the rafter, or about sixteen
feet from the ground.

Every December we lay the vines down along the front
wall after being pruned, covering them completely with
soil until May, when they are then taken up and tied to
the wires, which are 1\16 galvanized iron, and run across
the rafters 15 inches apart and 15 inches from the glass.
The training followed is what is called the "spur" sys-
tem, which is simply to allow one cane or shoot to each
rafter, (or at three feet apart), and pruning the side
shoots or " bearing wood " annually back to one eye. In
the summer treatment of the cold grapery, the principle
must never be lost sight of, that to keep the vines in per-
fect health, a temperature of not less than 70° at night,
with 10° or 15° higher during the day is always necessary.
Any rapid variation downward is certain to result in mil-
dew. The floor of the grapery should be kept dashed
with water at all times, unless in damp weather, from the

THE COLD GBAPEEY. 149

time the buds start in May, until the fruit begins to
ripen in September, except during the period the vines
are in flower, when it should be dispensed with until the
fruit is set. If the weather is dry, copious watering is
necessary for the border outside. The summer pruning
of the grapery consists simply in pinching off the laterals,
or side shoots which start from where the leaf joins
the stem, to one leaf. Every winter three inches of
the best well-rottel stable manure is spread over the
border, and over that six inches of leaves or lit-
ter ; this is raked off in spring, and the manure forked
in, the object being to feed the roots from the top of the
border. This same treatment we give our hardy grapes
with excellent results.

I am a good deal of a utilitarian, and am very apt to
make even my luxuries " pay" when it is practicable to
do so ; and though we would hardly think of selling our
grapes that have been grown for private use, yet I do not
scruple to make the glass that shelters them do double
duty by using it in winter to shelter our half-hardy roses
from November to May. Those that do not make rose-
growing a business, as I do, can nevertheless profit by my
example, and use the cold grapery for many purposes
during the winter months when it is not needed for the
grape-vines. Besides roses, all plants of a half-hardy
character may be kept there, such as Pomegranates,
Crape Myrtles, Pampas Grass, Tritomas, Carnations, etc.,
care being taken that the pots or tubs in which they are
planted are plunged in leaves, tan, or some such sub-
stance, so the roots do not freeze. The cold grapery
makes an excellent poultry-house in winter, only if put
to that use, care must be taken that the buried vines are
secure against the scratching of the hens.

150 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

CHAPTER XLVIL

THE HOT-HOUSE OR FORCING GRAPERY.

When grapes are forced by artificial heat, probably the
best plan is that of the "lean-to" structure shown by
the illustrations, figs. 61, 62, and 63. Fig. 61 gives the
plan, which, as in some former engravings, it is not prac-
ticable to show on the page at full length; it is accord-
ingly "fractured" portions, as shown by the irregular
lines, being taken out of each compartment ; the figures
give the proper proportion. Fig. 62 is a part of the front
elevation, and fig. 63, a section at the division between
the two houses. The house is 100 feet long by 16 feet
wide, divided into two compartments for early and late
forcing, each 50x16 feet, and both heated by one boiler
with valves in the furnace pit to shut off and taps to draw
the water from the pipes not in use ; a matter to be looked
to when vineries are not in use, for if the water is not drawn
out of the pipes it may freeze and burst them. When grapes
are to be forced, it is essential that a sufficient covering
of manure or leaves be placed on the border to prevent
frost from reaching the roots, as to apply heat to the vines
inside while the roots are frozen, would seriously in-
jure them. For very early forcing, when the vines are
started as early as January, it is usual not only to put
covering enough to secure from frost, but also to
slightly ferment, so as to throw some warmth into the
border. No matter at what season the grapery is started
for forcing, the temperature should not run over 50° or
55° at night, with a day temperature of 10° or 15° higher,
increasing 10° when the buds have opened, which will be
in four or five weeks from the time of starting. In five
or six weeks the fruit will be set and the temperature is to
In forcing, moisture is of equal im-

THE HOT-HOUSE OR FORCING GRAPERY.

151

r 61. — PLAN OF FORCING GRAPERY

152

GARDENING FOB PLEASURE.

portance with heat, for if this is not attended to, you
may expect red-spiders and thrips, and then all your labor
may be in vain ; to keep up this moisture, tanks are usu-

Fig. 62.— ELEVATION OF FBONT OF FORCING GBAPEBT (IN PABT).

Fig. 63.— SECTION OF FORCING GBAPEBT.

ally placed on the hot- water pipes for graperies, and these
are kept filled with water, keeping up a continued evap-
oration, except at the time the vines are in flower ; it

THE STRAWBERRY. 153

should be then discontinued until the fruit is set. When
there is no such arrangement for evaporation, dash water
over the floors and use the syringe. To secure fine berries
and bunches, one- third of the berries should be thinned out
when of the size of peas, using scissors made for this
purpose.

CHAPTER XLVIII.

THE STRAWBERRY.

Of all small fruits, none perhaps stand so high in
general favor as the strawberry. Its culture is simple,
and as it grows freely in almost any soil or location, no
garden of any pretensions should be without it. If
a choice of soil can be had, nothing is so suitable as a
deep, rich, but rather sandy loam, though it will yield
returns sufficient to warrant its cultivation on any soil,
from almost pure sand to clay, providing that it is drained
naturally or artificially. In all soils, deep spading or
plowing is essential to the production of fine crops ; and
this should not be less than a foot, and if 18 inches, all
the better. A coat of thoroughly rotted stable manure
at least three inches in thickness, should be dug in and
well mixed with the soil to a depth of six or nine inches.
In the absence of stable manure, any of the concentrated
fertilizers mentioned in chapter VI, " How to Use Con-
centrated Fertilizers," used in the manner and quantities
there described, will do as a substitute. Where muck
from the swamps, or leaf-mold from the woods can be
obtained, twenty bushels of either of these mixed with
one bushel of ashes, will make an excellent fertilizer for
strawberries, and may be spread on as thickly as stable
manure, and on sandy soils is probably better.

154 GARDENING FOE PLEASURE.

Strawberries may be planted either in the fall or spring.
If the plants are to be set in the fall, it should not be
done if possible in this latitude before the middle of Sep-
tember. This, of course, refers to the plants from run-
ners taken up from the bed in the usual manner, and
there is nothing gained in time over planting the next
spring, as the plant must grow for one season before it
can bear a full crop of fruit. In private gardens it is

Fig. 64— STRIKING STKAWBEBBIES IN POTS.

much better to have the plants layered in pots, as they
may then be set at almost any time. These pots may be
from two to three inches in diameter ; when a lot of
strawberry plants are wanted for a new bed, all that is
necessary to do is to fill these small pots with soil, and
" plunge " or plant the pot just to the surface level, plac-
ing the unrooted "runner" of the strawberry plant on
the top of the soil in the flower-pot, and laying a small
stone or clod on it to keep it in place. This method of
striking in pots is shown in fig. 64. The runners so

THE STRAWBERRY. 155

treated will form plants in two or three weeks, and may
be planted out with safety any time from August to Oc-
tober. If strawberry plants are treated in this way, and
planted in August, and care taken that all runners that
come from them be cut off as soon as formed, so that the
whole force of the root is thrown into the main crown,
a full crop of berries will be gathered the season follow-
ing, or in nine or ten months from time of planting. We
have practiced this system of layering strawberry plants
in pots for what we need for our own use, for the past
twenty years, and the results have been so successful that
we have many converts to the system among our neigh-
bors. Plants grown in this manner cannot often be ob-
tained from the nurseries, as the necessary labor and ex-
pense of the pots makes the price five times more than
that of ordinary plants rooted in the open bed. When
strawberry plants are set out in the fall, unless under
favorable circumstances, many will fail to grow, for the
reason that each young plant or runner is sustained in
part by the old plant, and when detached, feels the shock
more than a rooted cutting or seedling plant does, that
has been growing for weeks on its own account, for that
reason we have always advised all that were intending to
plant fresh strawberry beds, to prepare their plants a few
weeks ahead by layering them in pots. Two to four hun-
dred plants are all that an ordinary family will need, and
two or three hours' work would be all the time required
to layer the plants in the pots. One hundred plants so
prepared, will give more fruit the first season than 1,000
plants planted in the usual way, and the plant forms
a stool quicker, and much less time is expended in keep-
ing them clean. The use of layered plants is recom-
mended specially for fall planting, and the sooner it is
done in fall the better ; plant in August if possible.

In spring the use of potted plants would have no spe-
cial advantage, as if planted in April or May, they would

156 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

have all the summer to grow, but of course no fruit can
be expected the season of planting. For this reason, it
will be seen that to secure a crop quickly, the time to
plant is in August or September, and from plants that
have been layered in pots. There is no arbitrary rule for
the distance apart at which strawberry plants should be
set, but if the ground has been prepared as advised,
the finest fruit will be had by giving them plenty of
room. For our own use we usually set 400 plants annu-
ally in August, at two feet apart between the rows, and
eighteen inches between the plants, and gather about 200
quarts of splendid fruit. If the ground is limited they
may be planted at half the above distance, particularly if
set late in fall. There is one very important point in
strawberry culture that should never be neglected ; that
is, that the beds be entirely covered with hay, straw, or
leaves, to the depth of three or four inches. This cov-
ering should not be put on, however, before the approach
of severe weather, in this district about the middle of De-
cember. This covering should not be taken off in spring ;
it is only necessary to go over the beds as soon as growth
begins in spring, and pull the covering back from the
plants only sufficient to expose the crown, allowing all to
remain on the bed. This covering serves several purpo-
ses. It keeps the roots warm until the plants start to
grow, it keeps the fruit clean when ripe, it prevents the
growth of weeds, and finally acts as a mulch to keep the
soil from drying in hot weather. Although strawberry
beds will remain in bearing for a number of years, the
fruit is always largest and finest the first season of bear-
ing, gradually getting smaller as the '-plants get older,
hence it is desirable to provide for a succession, if not
every year, at least every second year. For garden cul-
ture in this, as in all other fruits, it is unwise to use any
but fully tested varieties, three or four of which, are
Sufficient.

THE STRAWBERRY. 157

VARIETIES OF THE STRAWBERRY.

Triomplie de Gand is one of the favorite varieties ; it is
of large size, fine flavor, and a fair bearer. It requires a
heavy soil.

Wilson's Seedling is a variety better known than any
other sort ; it bears large crops, but is very sour. It is
much used for preserving.

Champion. — A berry of an immense size, and beautiful
dark crimson appearance, an abundant bearer, but not
so rich in flavor as some others.

Charles Downing. — This variety is likely to take the
place of the Wilson, as it has all the productiveness of
that ; succeeds on all soils, and a much better berry.

Kentucky. — Is the latest variety, and by planting it
with earlier sorts, will extend the season several days.

Black Defiance. — This is a first-class fruit in every re-
spect, large, productive, and of high flavor ; while it3
dark color unfits it for market, it is one of the best for
the private garden.

Seth Boy den. — One of the largest berries, very produc-
tive, sweet, but not very high flavored ; its long neck
allows it to be hulled very readily.

FORCING STRAWBERRIES.

Those who have a greenhouse often wish to force straw-
berries into fruit several weeks in advance of the time
that they will be ripe in the open air. It may be done in
a frame or pit. The young runners must be first layered
in pots, as already described, as early as runners are
formed, and as soon as the small pots are filled with roots,
they must be shifted into larger ones, say six inches in
diameter, the runners being pinched off as they appear,
so as to throw the whole strength of the plant into the
fruiting crown. The soil in which to pot strawberries for

158 GAEDENIKG FOE PLEASUEE.

forcing is the one we recommend for nearly all plants ;
three parts rotted sods, and one part rotted manure.
The potted strawberries should be placed on boards,
flagging, or a layer of coal ashes, to prevent the earth-
worms from getting in at the bottom of the pots. At
first, after being shifted, they should be set closely to-
gether, but as they grow they must be spread apart, as it
is necessary that the air pass around the pots to ripen the
roots. Of course the necessary attention to water is aa
important with these as with other plants in pots. They
may thus stand in the open air until November, when
the pots may be plunged in dry leaves to prevent their be-
ing broken by frost ; and the tops also covered an inch or
two with the same material ; as cold weather advances,
they may be taken in at intervals of two weeks or so and
placed on the shelves of a greenhouse, near the glass,
where the temperature will average at night 50 degrees,
and if due attention to watering has been given, a crop
will be the result, such as will well repay the labor,
not only as fruit, but the plants so loaded will them-
selves be beautiful greenhouse ornaments. Good vari-
eties for forcing are Triomphe de Gand and Champion.

RASPBERRY.

To have the Raspberry in perfection, the same prepara-
tion of soil is necessary as for the Strawberry. The canes
or shoots of the Raspberry are biennial ; that is, the cane
or shoot that is formed one season, bears fruit the next
season, and dies off after fruiting, giving place to the
young cane that is to fruit the following season, and
so on. The distances apart to plant the Raspberry for
garden culture, may be, if in rows, five feet apart, with
the plants two feet apart in the row, or if in separate
stools or hills, they may be set four feet each way. If
planted at distances of four feet apart, three plants may
be put in each "hill," which will quicker secure a crop.

KASPBEEEY. 159

They may be set either in fall or in spring ; if in fall, a
covering of four or five inches of litter should be spread
over the roots to prevent them from getting too much
frozen. And even when the plants are established and
growing, it is necessary in many cold sections, to bend
down the canes and cover them with pine branches or
some covering that will shield them from severe freezing.
On the large scale the canes are bent down and covered
with a few inches of earth, an operation that may be
rapidly performed by two persons. One bends down the

Fig. 65.— LAYING DOWN RASPBERRY CANES.

canes, (using a pitchfork or other implement), as shown
in the accompanying diagram, (fig. 65), while the other
throws sufficient earth near the tips to hold the canes in
place ; after a row is thus bent over, the two go back
and cover with earth more completely. All the
pruning that is necessary for the Raspberry is to
thin out the shoots in each hill to four or six ; this
is best done in the summer after the fruit is gathered, and
at the same time the old canes that have borne the
fruit should be cut out, so that the young shoots, coming
forward to do duty next season, may have room to grow
freely, and develop and ripen the wood. When the leaves
drop in fall, the canes may be shortened down a foot or
so, which will complete the pruning process. To get the
full benefit of all the fruit, it is very necessary to stake
the Raspberry, this may be done either by tying the canes
of each plant separately to a stout stake, driven two feet

160

GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

or so in the ground, or if grown in rows they may be
tied to wires running along the rows ; the wires should
be stretched between two stout posts, one at each end of
the row, and three feet more or less above the ground,
according to variety ; to prevent the wire from sagging,
stakes should be driven into the ground directly under it,
at intervals of six or ten feet ; the wire is attached to
these by means of staples placed over it and driven into
the ends of the
stakes. The di-
agram, fig. 66,
shows the meth-
od of training
to the wire j the
longer canes at
the right and
left are the
canes which are
to fruit the cur-
rent year ; these
are tied out as
there shown,
while the new
shoots, which

Fig. 66.— TRAINING RASPBERRIES TO A WIRE.

are to furnish canes for the next year's fruiting, grow up
in the center, and as soon as tall enough are tied to the
wire ; after the outer canes have fruited, they are cut
away to give the others more room.

The varieties are very numerous, those named below
are such as will be most satisfactory for private use.
From 100 to 200 hills or plants, of all varieties, will usu-
ally be sufficient for most families.

Fastolff. — A large crimson fruit of delicious flavor.

BrinckWs Orange. — An orange colored berry of large
size, very productive, and of excellent flavor.

Clarice. — Not quite so large as the Fastolff, but of

BLACKBERRY. 161

strong, robust habit, enduring well the extremes of heat
and cold.

Philadelphia, — One of the hardiest and most produc-
tive, growing in soils and situations where the others
would fail. It is of rather poor quality, but is useful for

'the above reasons.

/ Catawissa. — A fall-bearing variety of medium size,
color purplish crimson, medium flavor.

BLACK CAPS.

Black-caps or Black Kaspberries have become very
popular of late years, many persons being fond of their
peculiar flavor. They belong to a distinct species from
the ordinary Kaspberries ; the plants make no suckers,
but propagate themselves by taking root at the ends of
the long branches, which in the fall, if allowed to grow
at will, bend over and reach the earth. They throw up
shoots from the base of the plant which take the place of
those which have already borne a crop. In gardens
where there is no desire to propagate the plants, the
growing shoots should be pinched off when they get
three or four feet high, and any side-shoots they may
throw off are stopped by pinching when they are about
18 inches long. The bearing wood is thinned oat after
the fruit is off.

Mammoth Cluster is considered the most productive
of all the numerous varieties.

Thorriless. — This is preferable to the others in being
nearly free from spines, and though the fruit is not quite
so large, it is much more easily gathered.

BLACKBERRY.

The cultivation of the Blackberry is nearly similar to
that of the Kaspberry, except that it should be planted
about one-third farther apart, and it being hardier, there
is no need for covering it in winter. As it has a more

162 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE.

vigorous growth, it is sometimes set in any out of the
way corner, and in almost any soil ; but it will amply
repay generous cultivation with finer fruit. The man-
ner of growth is the same as the Raspberry, and when
the fruit is picked, the old canes are to be cut out to give
the new ones a chance. The new shoots are very vigorous
growers, and when they reach the hight of five, or at
most, six feet, they should be stopped by pinching ; this
will cause an abundance of side shoots to start which are
to be pinched when about 18 inches long. This treat-
ment increases the productiveness of the plants and keeps
the fruit within reach. The bushes should be kept tied
to stout stakes or wires, as advised for the Raspberry.

The following are a few of the popular kinds :

Kittatinny. — An immensely large berry of excellent
flavor, of deep, shiny black color, one of the very best
for family use.

Wilson's Early. — One of the earliest varieties, ripen-
ing a week or more before the Kittatinny, quite as large,
and of excellent quality.

Cut-leaved. — The merit of this variety is its lateness of
ripening, coming in just when the others are done fruit-
ing. It is of large size, and esteemed by many, while
others do not like its very distinct and peculiar flavor.

CURRANTS.

The Currant is useful both for dessert and for preserv-
ing purposes. An immense weight of fruit is obtained
for the space it occupies, and the ease of its culture makes
it common in every garden. The red and white varieties
of Currants may be planted three or four feet apart each
way, the black at four or five feet apart. Pruning is
done in fall by cutting off about one-third of the young
growth of the previous summer, and thinning out old
shoots when the plant gets too thick. All are trained in

GOOSEBEREY. 163

low bush form, the whites and reds usually from three to
four feet high and wide, and the black four to six feet.
An insect known as the currant-worm is often very de-
structive. On its first appearance, if confined to a few
leaves, these should be cut off, shoot and all, and de-
stroyed. If they threaten to be troublesome, powdered
white Hellebore, either dusted on, or mixed four ounces
to a pailful of water and applied with a syringe, will de-
stroy them at once.

Black Naples. — This is the favorite black variety, and
is used almost exclusively for jams and jellies. The
black varieties are much less grown here than in Europe,
but the taste for them is increasing.

Red Dutch. — Color of berries deep red, of average size,
flavor excellent.

White Grape. — Berries large, of a yellowish-white
color. The flavor of this variety is less acid than any
other ; excellent for dessert.

Versailles. — The fruit much larger than the Eed
Dutch, and the best flavored of all the large-berried kinds.

Cherry. — Berries larger than that of any other sort,
but too acid for most tastes ; only suitable for jelly.

GOOSEBERRY.

The Gooseberry is a fruit better suited for the climate
of Britain than for ours, and it is never seen here in the
perfection it attains there. It ripens just when our hot-
test weather occurs, forcing it unnaturally to maturity,
and hence the absence of the size and flavor it attains
when ripened at a lower temperature. The native varie-
ties, though far inferior in quality, are usually more free
from mildew, and are therefore most desirable for culti-
vation here, as the fruit with us is more used in the green
than in the ripe state. Gooseberries are planted from

164 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

three to four feet apart, and are treated in all other re-
spects like Currant bushes.

Downing. — A native variety of medium size, greenish-
white when ripe, excellent quality.

Houghton's Seedling. — Also a native variety, size me-
dium, color red, flavor average.

Of the foreign varieties among Reds may be named as
leading sorts, Warrington, Champion, Waterloo; of
Greens, Green Globe, Melville, Green Gage ; of Yellows,
Sulphur, Champagne, Golden Drop ; of, Whites, Crystal,
Whitesmith, Dutch.

FIGS.

The Fig on account of it not being hardy in the north-
ern states, is but little cultivated unless in tubs, which
are placed in cellars or sheds to protect them during the
winter months, or occasionally on the back wall of lean-
to graperies ; but in all parts of the country where the
thermometer does not get lower than twenty degrees
above zero, they can be grown freely in the open air
without protection. It is hardly ever necessary to prune
the Fig, except to regulate its shape by cutting back any
extra strong shoots. In sections of the country such as
Maryland, or West Virginia, or Delaware, where it may
require slight protection when grown in the open air, it
should be planted against a wall or fence, and trained
against it ; on the approach of cold weather it should be
laid down and covered as recommended for hardy grapes.
When grown in tubs to be kept in cellars, sheds, or green-
house pits, they should be placed under cover in this
latitude early in November, kept as dry as possible with-
out shrivelling, and set out in the open air again in
May. The soil and general treatment for plants grown
in the open air in pots or tubs will be suitable for them.

QUINCE — CHERBY. 165

There are numerous sorts in cultivation from which we
select the following :

Wliite Genoa. — Large roundish, yellow skin ; flesh red-
ish-pink, excellent flavor.

Brown Turkey. — Pear shaped, average size, brown
skin ; flesh red, rich flavor.

Early Violet. — Skin brownish-red ; flesh reddish-crim-
son, delicious flavor; fruit rather small; one of the hardiest.

Brown Ischia. — Size large, skin yellowish-brown ; flesh
violet, sweet and luscious, very prolific.

QUINCE.

A few Quince trees should be planted in every garden
where there is any pretension to a collection of fruits. It
is a tree requiring but little attention, and for that reason
is often neglected, and very unsightly specimens are seen.
The tree is very ornamental in flower and fruit, and by a
little attention to pruning, a handsome head may be
formed, though equally luxuriant crops are seen on
trees that have been untouched for years. They may be
planted eight or ten feet apart. In varieties the kind in
most general use is the

Apple-shaped or Orange. — A large round variety,
bright golden-yellow.

Pear-shaped is larger, color greenish-yellow, and its
shape being more pear-like, readily distinguishes it from
the other and better variety.

Rea's Seedling. — A variety not very abundant as yet,
is the largest and finest of all.

CHERRY.

The Cherry-tree begins to bear usually in two or three
years after planting trees of the size sold at the nurseries,

166 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

and continues to annually enlarge in growth and produc-
tiveness until it often attains a larger size than most of
our fruit-trees. The Cherry grows freely in almost any
soil that is free from moisture, preferring, however, like
most other fruits, a deep loamy soil. The tree may be
trained as desired, either in pyramidal form or with a
round top, by pruning and directing the shoots. The
distance apart may be ten or twelve feet. Varieties :

Black Tartarian. — Deep purplish -black, very large ;
fine flesh, unsurpassed in quality ; last of June.

RocJcport. — Very large, amber-yellow, dotted red ; flesh
firm, sweet and excellent ; ripens in June.

Coe's Transparent.- — Color pale-amber-yellow ; spotted
with pink ; flesh tender, sweet, and of fine flavor ; ripens
middle of June.

May Duke. — Color dark-red, size medium, quality ex-
cellent ; ripens early in June.

Morello. — A sub-acid variety of medium size, color
bright-red, changing to darker color when fully ripe ;
hangs long on the tree, mainly used for pies and pre-
serving.

PLUM.

The cultivation of the Plum is rendered nearly useless
in most places by the attacks of the Curculio, or Plum
Weevil. Every conceivable application to the trees has
been tried without any satisfactory result. The only
thing which will effectually save a crop in the districts
infested by this insect, is to jar the tree in the morning
or in cool days, first spreading sheets under the trees to
catch the weevils, after which they may be burned. If
this is begun as soon as the plums are formed, and per-
sisted in every few days until they are ripe, a large share of
the crop may be saved. This may be thought to be pay-
ing rather dear for a crop of plums, but it is really the

PLUM. 167

only way it can be secured. Many years ago the crop of
a plum orchard under our charge numbering over a hun-
dred large trees, was saved by this process, while all other
plums in the district where the jarring of the trees was
not resorted to, were completely destroyed. This plan
was recommended nearly half a century ago, and no
other practicable method has since been presented.
It has been recommended by some to plant the trees on
the bank of a pond or running stream, and train them to
overhang the water, also to pave or cement around the
roots so that the insect cannot burrow, but these plans
would be often impossible, and are useless. Trees upon
stiff, clayey soils are more exempt from the ravages of the
Curculio than those upon light ones, probably for the
reason that the insect in the grub or larvae state cannot
penetrate them so readily, as they must enter the ground
to become perfect insects. The average distance at which
the Plum maybe planted is from ten to twelve feet. The
following are distinct and fine sorts.

Orleans. — Color purple, with a rich blue bloom, size
medium ; flesh deep yellow, flavor of first quality ; cling-
stone ; ripens in August.

Washington. — Color yellow, marbled with red next the
sun ; large size ; flesh firm, sweet, and rich ; freestone ;
ripens first of September.

Green Gage. — A well known variety, rather small in
size, but of exquisite flavor, color greenish-yellow, spotted
with red on the sunny side ; freestone ; ripens early in
August.

Columbia. — Of the largest size, color brownish-purple ;
flesh yellow, sweet, and finely flavored ; freestone ; ripens
the last of August. *

Golden Drop.- — A very old and well known sort, color
golden-yellow with red spots next the sun ; large, oval ;

168 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE.

rich and sweet yellowish flesh ; clingstone ; ripens middle
of September.

PEACH.

The Peach prefers the light, dry, and warm soils,
known as sandy loams. The tree is shortlived in most
sections, and attains its best fruiting condition usually
when from five to nine years old. The tree is greatly
benefitted by pruning ; the growth of the previous sea-
son should be shortened about one-third ; this, if annually
followed from the time the trees are set, will give them
compact heads instead of open, straggling ones, the
branches of which will break down with the first full
crop of fruit. In the peach-growing districts the culti-
vators do not expect more than three crops in five years,
and if they get two full crops in that time they are con-
tent, and amateurs should expect no more. When a crop
sets at all there is usually more fruit than the tree can
carry and ripen ; no fruit needs severe thinning more
than the peach. In bearing seasons half or two-thirds of
those which set may be removed with benefit to the rest.
"When a tree appears sickly with yellow foliage, dig it up
at once. The distance apart may be from eight to ten
feet. Among the favorite varieties for garden culture
may be named

Early Beatrice.— One of Mr. Eivers' seedlings, and so
far as tried in this country promises to be a valuable
early sort ; its size is small, but quality good ; freestone.

Holds Early. — A very early peach, of fair size and
great beauty, but has the fault that it in some localities
rots just as it begins to ripen, a difficulty probably due to
overbearing rather than to locality ; freestone, excellent.

Columbia. — Large, round, color yellow and red,
streaked with dark-crimson ; flesh yellow, rich, and juicy,
flavor excellent ; freestone ; ripens in September.

NECTARINES. 160

Crawford's Early. — Large, roundish, color yellow,
tinged with red ; flesh yellow, rich, and sweet ; ripens
last of August ; freestone.

Crawford's Late. — Similar in appearance, but ripening
three weeks later.

Cooledge's Favorite. — Size medium, roundish oval,
color clear white with crimson cheek ; flesh rich, juicy,
and of first quality ; ripens in August ; freestone.

Honest John, or Early York. — Large, roundish, white
with red cheek ; flesh white, very juicy, excellent flavor ;
middle of August; freestone.

Morris White. — A well known variety, size medium,
color greenish-white, flavor average. The variety mostly
used for preserving ; middle of September ; freestone.

Malacatune. — Fruit large, yellow, with dark red cheek ;
flesh orange-yellow, flavor excellent ; middle of Septem-
ber ; freestone.

NECTAEINES.

Nectarines are only smooth skinned peaches, requiring
in all respects similar treatment to the peach. They are
but little grown in this country, as they are equally lia-
ble to injury by the attacks of the Plum Curculio, with
the Plum itself. The same treatment recommended
for its destruction in Plums, must be applied to the
Nectarine. There is a peculiarity in the flavor of some
varieties of Nectarines differing from that of any of the
peaches, and by some they are greatly preferred to any
peach in flavor. The successful varieties are not numerous.

Early Newington. — Large, roundish oval, greenish-
yellow mottled red; flesh yellowish-white ; September;
cling.

Hunfs Tawny. — Large, round, amber-yellow with red
cheek ; flesh orange, melting, flavor excellent ; ripens in
August ; freestone.
8

170 GARDENING FOE PLEASURE.

Boston. — Large, oval, yellow with mottled crimson
cheek ; flesh yellow, excellent quality ; September ; free-
stone.

APRICOT.

The Apricot is closely related to the peach, but belongs
to another species ; it is less juicy, and has a flavor
quite distinct from, and by some preferred to, that of the
peach. The blighting Curculio attacks the Apricot also,
and its culture can only be successful by combating the
difficulties that attend that of the plum, unless in special
locations that seem few and far between. The varieties are

Moorpark. — Size large as an average peach, yellow
with red cheek ; flesh orange, sweet, and of exquisite
flavor ; ripens in July.

Orange. — Pale yellow with red cheek, size medium ;
ripens end of July.

Turkey. — Large, deep yellow, shaded orange ; flesh
pale-yellow, firm, rich, and sweet ; ripens in August.

APPLE.

The apple can only be grown in gardens as a dwarf,
either kept in a bush form or trained as a pyramid or
other shape. The dwarf trees are made so by grafting on
dwarfing stocks, while the varieties are the same as those
found in the large trees of the orchard. Two sorts of
dwarfing stocks are used by nurserymen, the Doucin and
Paradise. Trees upon the Doucin will ultimately grow
quite large, and as the Paradise is the only stock which
makes really dwarf trees, the amateur who wishes to
grow dwarf apple-trees should make sure that they are
worked on Paradise stocks. Of course trees of this kind
are not advised as a source of fruit, but there can scarcely
be a handsomer object in the garden than a bush three
feet high, and about the same through, loaded with enor-

APPLE — PEARS. 171

mous apples. Dwarf apple-trees may be planted six
feet apart each way, while ordinary trees in the orchard
are given 15 to 30 feet, or even 40 feet. The following
sorts are recommended for garden culture. For descrip-
tions see nursery catalogues. Red Astrachan, Alexander,
Sweet Bough, Fall Pippin, Gravenstein, Maiden's Blush,
Porter, Eambo, Northern Spy, Mother, Twenty Ounce,
Beauty of Kent, Hawthornden, Spitzenberg, Jonathan,
King of Tompkins County, Keswick Codlin, Lady Apple,
Eed Canada, Swaar.

PEARS,

Like apples, are grown as dwarfs and standards. The
former being planted from eight to ten feet apart, the
latter from ten to twelve feet. The dwarfs, budded on
the quince stock, are mostly used for garden culture, as
from their habit they are more suitable, besides having
the invaluable quality of coming quicker into bearing.
Time was when the adage went, " He that plants pears,
plants for his heirs," but this is now no more applicable
to the pear than to the peach, for we now have fine crops
of pears budded on the quince in three to five years from
the time of planting. The trees may be grown as
pyramids, or in the bush form, or in small gardens,
pear, peach, and other trees are successfully trained
in what is called the oblique cordon, which allows
a number of varieties to be grown in a small space.
Only a general outline of the method can be given
here, referring for fuller details to Barry's and other
works on fruit culture. A trellis is built about 8 feet
high, by nailing a strong top and bottom rail to posts,
which should be about 8 feet apart. Slats of inch
stuff are put on between the two rails at an angle of 30° ;
these are fastened on with screws, as when the trees
have reached the top, the slats are to be brought down to
45°, and they should be long enough to allow for doing

172

GARDENING FOB PLEASURE.

this. Young trees are set in an inclined position in a
line with these slats, which are three feet apart. Each
tree is cut back to a few buds, and one shoot allowed to
grow from the strongest bud, all the others being re-
moved. This shoot as it grows is kept tied to the slat,
and when it throws out side-shoots, as it soon will,
they are pinched back to three or four leaves, whenever
the shoot is sufficiently developed to allow the number
of the leaves to be seen. By growing in this inclined

Fig. 67.— CORDON-TRAINING OF PEAR TREES.

position, and by pinching every shoot back to three or
four leaves, the tree is dwarfed and made to bear early,
and when properly managed, forms a perfect cordon or
garland, with fruit along its whole length. Fig. 67
shows a portion of a trellis of this kind. The following /
varieties are recommended for either kind of training.
For descriptions see nursery catalogues. Bartlett, Beurre
d'Anjou, Duchesse d'Angoul6me, Lawrence, Clapp's
Favorite, Beurre Bosc, Dana's Hovey, Vicar of Wink-
field, Howell, Urbaniste, Seckel, Winter Mis, Brandy-
wine, Doyenne d' Ete, Louise Bonne de Jersey, Belle
Lucrative, Doyenne Boussock.

VEGETABLE GARDEN.

COTTAGE GARDENING — A DIGRESSION. 175

CHAPTER XLIX.

COTTAGE GARDENING— A DIGRESSION.

Before taking up the subject of vegetable culture, I
will relate an incident connected with cottage gardening
that may interest if it do» not benefit some of those into
whose hands this book may fall. About a dozen years ago
I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of a gen-
tleman whose duties compelled him to be at his desk in
a close office in the City of New York, from 9 o'clock A. M.
to 4 P.M. Being naturally of a weak constitution, his
sedentary life soon made him the victim of dyspepsia to
such a degree that he felt that he must soon resign his
situation. He was then a man of forty, entirely ignorant
of anything pertaining to country life, and it was with
great misgivings and reluctance that, by the advice of
his physician, he changed his home from a closely built
part of New York to a cottage in the then country-like
suburb of Bergen Heights, N. J. His means enabled
him to purchase a modest cottage built on a lot 50 by
150 feet ; he did not want the land, he said, but the cot-
tage was such as he fancied, and the ground had to go
with it. It was about this time that I formed his ac-
quaintance, through some business transaction, and he
asked my professional advice as to what he could do with
his land, which he had already begun to consider some-
what of an incumbrance. I replied to him that, if I was
not greatly mistaken, in his little plot of ground lay a
cure for all his bodily ills, and that besides it could add
to the comforts if not the luxuries of his table if he would
only work it. ( ' I work it ! " he exclaimed. " You don't
suppose that these hands could dig or delve," holding up
his thin and bloodless fingers, "and if they could I know

176 GARDENING FOE PLEASURE.

nothing about gardening." I told him I thought neither
objection insurmountable if he once begun.

The result of our conversation was, that he resolved to
try, and try he did to a purpose. Our interview was in
March, and before the end of April he had his lot all
nicely dug over, the labor being done by his own hands
during an hour and a half each morning. His custom
was to get up at six o'clock and work at his garden until
half past seven. This gave him ample time to dress, get
breakfast, and be at his desk in the city by nine. The
labor of merely digging was (to him) heavy and rather
monotonous, but he stuck to it bravely, and when he
again presented himself before me for plants and seeds
and information as to what to do with them, it was with
some pride that I saw my prescription had worked so
well, for my friend then looked more like a farmer than
a pallid clerk. The regulating of his little garden was a
simple matter, and was done according to the following
diagram :

Cauliflower, cabbage and lettuce.

Strawberries.

Cucumbers, onions, and parsley.

Raspberries.

Beets, carrots, and parsnips.

Tomatoes.

Bush beans.

Asparagus and Rhubarb.

During his first season, of course, he made some blun-
ders and some failures, but his interest in the work in-
creased year by year. His family was supplied with an
abundance of all the fresh vegetables and fruits his lim-
ited space could admit of being grown — a supply that it
would have taken at least $150 to purchase at retail, and
stale at that. But the benefit derived from the cultiva-

THE VEGETABLE GAKDEtf. 177

tion of this cottage garden was health — strong, rugged
health — that for the six years he was my neighbor, never
once failed him.

I know this case is an extremely exceptional one, for I
never knew another man who so resolutely worked him-
self into health. There are hundreds of business men,
book-keepers, salesmen, clerks, and the like who live in
the suburbs of all great cities, many of whom can ill
afford to pay for the keeping of the plots surrounding
their cottages, but who think they can far less afford to
do the work themselves. As a consequence, in nine cases
out of ten, the rear, at least, of their suburban plots is a
wilderness of weeds. But this is not the least of the
evils, the owner has a certain amount of muscular force,
and this, be it more or less, being unused, its possessor
pays the penalty of his laziness in dyspepsia, and a host
of other ills. The proofs are apparent everywhere that
garden operations are conducive to health and longevity.
The work is not unduly laborious, and when fairly en-
tered into has a never-failing interest. The growing and
the watching of the great variety of plants gives a
healthy tone to the mind, while the physical labor de-
manded by cultivation takes care of the body.

CHAPTER L.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

It is perhaps best that the space allotted to vegetables
should be at one side of the garden, and that for fruits
at the other, at least in the beginning, though a rotation
of crops or change of position may be advantageous in
course of time. I will give in brief the culture of each

178 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

vegetable in general use, placing them alphabetically for
easy reference, and enumerate the leading varieties.

ASPARAGUS— (Asparagus officinalis.)

Asparagus should be planted the first spring that the
owner comes into possession of the land, and if the house
is yet to be built, let the Asparagus-bed be planted at
once, as it takes the roots two or three years to acquire
sufficient strength to give a crop. For an ordinary family
a bed of six rows of fifty or sixty feet in length, and three
feet apart, will be sufficient, the plants in the rows
being set nine inches apart. In planting it is custo-
mary to use two-year-old plants, but it often happens
that as large a plant is raised from seed in good
soils in one year as in a poorer soil in two years ; in
such cases the one-year-old plant is preferable. The
preparation of the Asparagus bed should be made with
more care than for most vegetables, from the fact that
it is a permanent crop which ought to yield as well at
the end of twenty-five as of five years, if the soil has been
well prepared. The asparagus bed, to start with, should
be on ground thoroughly drained, either naturally or ar-
tificially, and if choice can be had, on a rather light sandy
loam. This should be trenched and mixed with suffi-
cient manure to form a coating of at least six inches
thick over the bed ; this manure should be worked into
the soil by trenching to the depth of two feet, as the roots
of the plant will reach quite that depth in a few years.
In setting, the crowns of the plants should be placed at
least three inches below the surface. It makes but little
difference whether it is planted in spring or fall ; if in
spring, it should be done as early as the ground is dry
enough to work, and if in fall, just as soon as the
plants can be had, which is usually in the early part
of October. We prefer fall planting on light,; well-

ASPARAGUS.

179

drained soils, for the reason that if it is done then, young
roots are formed, which are ready to grow on the ap-
proach of spring, but if the planting is done in March or
April, this formation of new roots has to take place then,
and causes a corresponding delay in growth. Plants are
sold by market gardeners and seedsmen, and as it will
save a year or two, to purchase them, it is not worth
while to raise them from seed in a private garden. The
edible portion is the undeveloped sfcems, which if cut
away as soon • as they appear, are followed by others,
which start from the crown of the plant. The cutting,

Fig. 68.— ASPARAGUS.

if continued too long, would finally exhaust the root,
hence it is customary to stop cutting as soon as early peas
become plenty, and allow the remaining shoots to grow
during the remainder of the season, and thus accumulate
sufficient strength in the plant to allow it to produce an-
other crop of shoots the next season. The engraving,
(fig. 68), represents a strong plant with the earth re-

180

GARDENING FOB PLEASURE.

moved from the roots ; the shoots are shown in different
stages of development, and it will be seen how readily
careless cutting may injure the buds which are ready to
produce a succession of shoots.

The surface of the Aspargus bed should have a top-
dressing of three or four inches of rough stable manure
every fall, (November),
which should be lightly
forked into the bed in
spring. The best variety
is what is known as
"Van Sicklen's Colos-
sal." In some localities
Asparagus is attacked
by an insect called the
Asparagus Beetle. The
best method of getting
rid of this pest, that we
have found, is to coop
up a hen and let the
chickens pick up the
insects and their eggs.

ARTICHOKE-GLOBE—

(Oynara Scolymus.)

Fig. 69.— GLOBE ARTICHOKE.

The portion used of
this plant is the unde-
veloped flower cluster,
or the portion which is known as the scales of the
involucre. They are boiled and served with drawn
butter, but outside of France do not seem to be very
generally appreciated. The plants are propagated first
by seeds, sown in a hot-bed in March, and planted out
at distances of from two to three feet. It is not
always hardy enough for our winters in the northern
states, though it proves so in all latitudes south of Wash-

ARTICHOKE — BEAN. 181

ington. Here it is necessary on the approach of winter
to draw the leaves together and earth up around them,
and later to cover the tops with litter.

ARTICHOKE, JERUSALEM— (Helianthus tiiberosus.)

This is an entirely different plant from the above, but
as the two are sometimes confounded, we give engravings
of both. The edible portion of this is the tuber, while
that of the Globe Arti-
choke is the scales sur-
rounding the flowers.
The tubers of the
Jerusalem Artichoke
somewhat resemble the FiS- ^.-JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE.
potato in appearance, and the plant produces immense
crops. But few persons in this country like the flavor,
and it is rarely grown unless for stock or as a curiosity.
Its culture is similar to the potato ; it has stems, leaves,
and flowers, much like the common sunflower.

BEAN, (Phaseolus vulgaris var. nanw.)— BUSH, SNAP, OR KIDNEY.

An indispensable vegetable, of easy cultivation, grow-
ing freely on almost any soil, though on well enriched
land, it will be more prolific in quantity and more tender
in quality. It is a plant of tropical origin, and like all
such, should not be sown until the weather is settled and
warm, and all danger from frost is past. In this latitude,
the time of sowing should not be sooner than the 15th of
May. Sow at intervals of two or three weeks, all through
the season, if wanted for use. Seed may be sown in drills
18 to 24 inches apart, and three inches deep, dropping
the seeds at distances of two or three inches in the drills,
and covering to the general level. To such as use them
all through the season, three or four quarts would be re-

182 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

quired, although a quart at one sowing would give an am-
ple quantity for any average family. The varieties most
in use at present are Early Valentine, Early China, Mo-
hawk, Fejee, Black Wax, and Refugee.

BEAN— POLE OR RUNNING, (Phaseolus vulgaris), AND LIMA,
(Phaseolus lunatus).

Pole Beans are usually cultivated in hills three or four
feet apart. The poles, (which are best made of young
cedar trees), should be nine or ten feet high, and firmly
fixed at least eighteen inches deep in the ground, and the
hills formed around them by digging up the soil and
mixing it with a shovelful of well rotted manure, or an
ounce or so of guano or bone-dust, if the stable manure
is not attainable ; but in either case let the mixing be
thorough. The hills should be but two or three inches
above the general level, and at least eighteen inches in
diameter. The term "hill" is an unfortunate one, as it
often leads inexperienced persons to suppose that a tall
heap must be made, and it is a common mistake to form
miniature hills often a foot or more in hight, upon which
to sow seeds or set plants ; the effect of this is to confine
the roots to this small high and dry space. When the
word " hill" is used in this work, it is to indicate the
place plants are to occupy, and unless some hight is
mentioned, it is not above the general level. After the
hill has been properly formed around the pole, from five
to six beans should be planted around it at a depth of
two inches, but the planting should never be done in this
latitude before the 20th of May. In all our experience
as seedsmen, we know of no seed that is so universally
replanted as Lima Beans. I think it safe to say, that at
least half of all the people who buy, plant before the
ground is dry and warm, and then tell us that the seed
must have been bad, because it rotted in the ground. In

BEAN — BEET. 183

the hurry of business we have not always time to explain
why they rotted, and would here state for the sake of our-
selves and cotemporaries, that the reason why the Linias
fail to grow in 99 cases out of 100, is, that they are planted
too early, and that it is no fault of the seed, which is
rarely imperfect. The proper method of planting Lima
Beans is to push each one singly into the soil, with the
eye downward ; the embryo is so very broad and flat that
it is difficult for it to turn itself as smaller seeds do when
placed in a wrong position.

The Large White Lima is the variety that is most
prized.

The Giant Wax makes pods nine inches in length,
and is a very productive variety.

The London Horticultural is used as snaps or shelled.

The Scarlet Runner is a highly ornamental variety,
producing dazzling scarlet flowers during the whole
summer. It is used mainly as a snap bean. Lima Beans
are usually only planted once in this latitude, as they
take nearly the whole season to mature. From thirty
to fifty poles are sufficient for ordinary use ; this will re-
quire from one to two quarts of seed.

BEET, (Beta vulgaris.)

Sow in shallow drills twelve to eighteen inches apart
in April or May, dropping the seeds so that they will fall
an inch or so apart. When the plants have grown to the
hight of about two inches, thin out, so that they will
stand four inches apart. When the roots are three inches
in diameter, they are fit for use. Of course they are used
when much larger, but the younger they are, the more
delicate and tender. The varieties cultivated are lim-
ited to a few :

184

GARDENING FOR PLEASUEE.

Early Egyptian. — A round, deep red variety, is the
earliest.

Early Bassano. — A light salmon colored variety.

Early Blood Turnip.
— Later than either of
the above, but best for
general crop.

Long Smooth Red. —
A long variety, best for
winter use. About six
ounces of seed will give
300 feet of row; enough
for ordinary use unless
succession crops are
wanted, then double
the quantity will be
required.

BORECOLE OR KALE,

(JBrassica oleracea var.)

The rather indefinite
name of " sprouts" is
given to this vegetable
about New York. It
is sown here in Sep-
tember, in rows one foot apart, treated in every way as
spinach, and is ready for use in early spring. Four
ounces of seed is sufficient to sow 300 feet of row. Two
varieties of this, but little grown here, are the " Scotch
Kale," or " Curled Greens," and the " Dwarf German
Greens." The former is of a deep green color, the latter
bluish purple, both varieties are much curled, almost
like parsley. The seeds of these are sown in May, and
transplanted in July, just as we do late cabbages, at dis-
tances of two feet apart each way. These " Greens," of

Fig. 71. — EGYPTIAN BEET.

BKOCCOU. 185

either variety, when touched by frost, are the most ten-
der and delicate of all the cabbage tribe, and it has al-
ways been a matter of wonder to me, why their cultiva-
tion has not been more general in this country. In
Britain they are used very extensively as a winter vege-
table. The most popular German variety is Purple Bore-
cole. The most popular English variety is Cottager's
Kale, very hardy and profitable, more weight being grown
of it in the same space than of any other variety.

BROCCOLI, (Brassica deracea var.)

We persist in growing under the two distinct names of
Broccoli and Cauliflower, plants which at best are noth-
ing more than very nearly related varieties. The main
difference between them is, that what we call Broccoli,
is planted for fall use, while that which we call Cauli-
flower is planted for spring or summer use ; though in
this respect they are frequently reversed without seeming
to mind it. For fall use the seed should be sown in the
early part of May, which will give plants large enough to
be set out in July. Further south the sowing of the seed
should be delayed from four to six weeks later, and
the plants be set out correspondingly later. Here we
put them out in July, though further south it may be
delayed to August or September. In the mild autumn
weather of those latitudes this vegetable may be had in
perfection from November to March, while with us, if
planted out in July it matures during October and No-
vember. The plants are set at two and a half to three
feet apart, and as a hundred plants are all that most
families would use, it is cheaper to buy them, if in a
section where they are sold, than to raise the plants
from seed. It requires an abundance of manure. The
varieties are :

White and Purple Cape. — There is no difference in

186

GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

flavor, though the white is the most pleasant looking
vegetable when cooked.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS, (Brassica okracea var.)

This vegetable, as the engraving shows, is a variety of
the cabbage which forms scarcely any terminal bud or
head, but the buds along the stem, which in the ordi-

Fig. 72.— BRUSSELS SPROUTS.

nary cabbage remain small, are in this developed into
small heads, which are the edible portion. This is much
more used in Europe than with us ; though it is not suffi-
ciently hardy to endure our northern winters, it will
stand in our latitude until Christmas. Its cultivation
is exactly similar in all respects to that of Broccoli, ex-

CAULIFLOWER. 187

cept that it may be planted closer, say from one and a
half to two feet apart.

CAULIFLOWER, (Brassica okracea var.)

There is quite an ambition among amateur gardeners
to raise early cauliflower, but as the conditions necessary
to success with this are not quite so easy to command as
with most other vegetables, probably not one in three

Fig. 73.— CAULIFLOWER.

who try it succeed. In England, and most places on the
continent of Europe, it is the most valued of all vegeta-
bles, and is grown there nearly as easily as early cabbages.
But it must be remembered that the temperature there is
on the average ten degrees lower at the time it matures,
(June), than with us ; besides their atmosphere is much
more humid, two conditions essential to its proper devel-
opment. I will briefly state how early cauliflowers can
be most successfully grown here. First, the soil must
be well broken, and pulverized by spading to at least a
foot in depth, mixing through it a layer of three or four

188 GARDENING FOE PLEASURE.

inches of strong, well rotted, stable manure. The plants
may be either those from seed sown last fall and
wintered over in cold frames, or else started from
seeds sown in January or February, in a hot-bed or
greenhouse, and planted in small pots or boxes, so
as to make plants strong enough to be set out as
soon as the soil is fit to work, which in this latitude
is usually the lirst week in April. "We are often applied
to for cauliflower plants as late as May, but the chances
of their forming heads when planted in May, are slim
indeed. The surest way to secure the heading of cauli-
flowers is to use what are called hand-glasses, some of
which are described in the chapter on Implements.
These are usually made about two feet square, which
gives room enough for three or four plants of cauliflower,
until they are so far forwarded that the glass can be taken
off. When the hand-fflass is used, the cauliflowers may
be planted out in any warm border early in March and cov-
ered by them. This covering protects them from frosts
at night, and gives the necessary increase of temperature
for growth during the cold weeks of March and April ;
so that by the first week in May, if the cauliflower has
been properly hardened off by ventilating, (by tilting up
the hand-glasses on one side), they may be taken off
altogether, and then used to forward tomatoes, melons,
or cucumbers, at which date these may be started, if
under the protection of hand-glasses. If the weather is
dry, the cauliflowers will be much benefitted by being
thoroughly soaked with water twice or thrice a week ;
not a mere sprinkling, which is of no use, but a complete
drenching, so that the water will reach to the lowest
roots. Those planted later are set out and treated in the
same manner as cabbages. The two best varieties of
cauliflower we have found as yet, are the Dwarf Erfurt
and Early Paris.

CABBAGE.

189

CABBAGE, (Brassica oleracea var.)

The cabbage is so easily raised that but little space
need be devoted to it
here ; like all of its
tribe, it requires an
abundance of manure
for its full develop-
ment. The early va-
rieties should be either
raised in cold-frames
or in hot-beds, as
stated for cauliflow-
er, and planted out at Fi^ ^.-CABBAGE-EARLY WINNINGSTADT.
distances of from twenty to thirty inches apart each way,

Fig. 75.— CABBAGE— SAVOY.

as early as the ground is fit to work in April. The best

190

GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

early varieties are Early Summer, Early Wakefield, Early
York, and Early Oxheart. As an intermediate variety
the Winningstadt is very popular ; it has a sharply con-
ical head, and sometimes grows quite large.

For late varieties, the seed should be sown in May, and
the plants set out in July at two to three feet apart. For

winter use the
large Drum-
head is usually
grown, to the
exclusion of all
others, and
while the Curl-
ed Savoy is
vastly better
flavored, not
one Savoy is
planted for
every thousand
Drumhea d.
The flavor of
the Savoy is as
superior to that
of the Drum-
head, as that
of a Bartlett
to that of a choke pear, and it is altogether the best late
cabbage for family use.

CARROT, (Daucus Carota.)

Carrots are sown any time from April to June, in rows
one foot apart, covering the seed two inches deep. If the
soil is light, they will be better flavored. When the plants
are an inch or so high, thin out to three or four inches
apart. The varieties most in use are Early French Forcing,
Early Horn and Long Orange. Eight ounces of seed will

Fig. 76.— VAEIETIES OF THE
CABBOT.

Fig. 1.— EARLY FEENCH FORCING.
Fig. 2.— EARLY HORN.
Fig. 3.— LONG ORANGE.

CELERY. 191

sow 300 feet of row, which, for most families, would be
an abundance, both for summer and winter use. Carrots
are much prized as food for horses and cows, and if
wanted for this purpose in quantity, they should be sown
with a seed-drill, in rows one and a half to two feet
apart ; about four pounds of seed per acre is required.

CELERY, (Apium graveolens.)

If I am fitted to instruct on the cultivation of any veg-
etable, it is this, as for many years I have cultivated
nearly half a million roots annually, and this experience
has resulted in greatly simplifying the operation. The
seeds are sown on a well pulverized rich border, as early
in the season as the ground can be worked. The bed is
kept clear of weeds until July, when the plants are set
out for the crop. But as the seedling plants are rather
troublesome to raise, the small number wanted for private
use, can usually be purchased cheaper than they can be
raised on a small scale, (they rarely cost more than $1 per
100), and if they can be procured fresh from the market
gardeners in the neighborhood, it is never worth while to
sow the seed. The European plan is to make a trench
six or eight inches deep, in which to plant celery, but
our violent rain storms in summer soon showed us that
this plan was not a good one here, so we set about plant-
ing on the level surface of the ground, just as we do
with all vegetables. Celery is a " gross feeder," and re-
quires an abundance of manure, which, as usual, must be
well mixed and incorporated with the soil, before the cel-
ery is set out. When the ground is well prepared, we
stretch a line to the distance required, and beat it
slightly with a spade, so that it leaves a mark to show
where to place the plants. These are set out at distances
of six inches between the plants, and usually four feet
between the rows. Great care must be taken in put-

192

GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

ting out the celery, to see that the plant is set just to
the depth of the roots, if much deeper, the " heart"
might he too much covered up, which would impede the
growth. It is also important that the soil he well packed
to the root in planting, and if the operation can be done
the evening, and the plants copiously watered, no

in

farther attention will be required.

If planted in July, nothing is to be done but keep the
crop clear of weeds until September ; by that time the
handling process is to be begun, which consists in draw-
ing the earth to each side of the celery, and pressing it

Fig. 77.—" HANDLING " CELERY.

tightly to it, so as to give the leaves an upward growth
preparatory to blanching for use. Supposing this hand-
ling process is done by the middle of September, by the
first week in October it is ready for " banking up," which
is done by digging the soil from between the rows and
laying or banking it up on each side of the row of celery;
after being so banked up in October, it will be ready for
use in three or four weeks if wanted at that time. But
if, as is usually the case, it is needed for winter use only,
and is to be put away in trenches, or in the cellar, as
will be hereafter described, all that it requires is the
operation of " handling." If the celery is to be left in
the open ground where it was grown, then a heavy bank

CELEET.

193

must be made on each side of the rows, and as cold
weather approaches — say in this latitude by the middle
of November — an additional covering of at least a foot
of leaves or litter, must be closely packed against the
bank, to protect it from frost.

Perhaps the best wav to keep celery for family use, is
in a cellar ; this can be done by storing it in narrow box-
es, of a depth a little less than the hight of the celery.
A few inches of sand or soil is placed in the bottom of
the box, and the celery is packed upright ; the roots
being placed on the sand at the bottom, none being put

Fig. 78.—" BANKING UP " CELERY.

between the heads. Boxes thus packed and placed in a
cool cellar in November, will be blanched fit for use dur-
ing January, February, and March, though for succes-
sion, it will be better to put it in the boxes from the
open ground at three different times, say October 25th,
November 10th, and November 20th. Or if boxes are
not at hand, the celery may be put away on the floor of,
the cellar in strips of nine or ten inches wide, separated
by spaces of the same width, divided by boards of a
width equal to the hight of the celery. The reason for
dividing the celery in these narrow strips by boards, is to
prevent the heating, which would take place if placed
together in too thick masses. The dates above given
9

194

GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

apply, of course, to the latitude of New York ; if
further south, do the work later ; if further north,
earlier. If one has no suitable cellar, the celery can be
very readily preserved in the manner followed by market
gardeners.

After it has been " handled" or straightened up, as
before described, what is intended for use by Christmas,
should be dug up by about October 25th ; that to be
used in January and February, by November 10th, and
that for March use, by November 20th, which latter date
is as late as it can be risked here ; although it will stand
quite a sharp frost, the weather by the end of November is

Fig. 79. — STORING CELERY IN TRENCHES FOR WINTER.

often severe enough to kill it, or so freeze it in the ground
that it cannot be dug up. The ground in which it is
to be preserved for winter use, must be as dry as possi-
ble, and so arranged that no water can remain in the
trench. Dig a trench as narrow as possible, (it should not
be wider than ten inches), and of a depth equal to the
hight of the celery, that is, if the plant of celery be
eighteen inches high, the trench should be dug eighteen
inches deep. The celery is then packed exactly in the
manner described for storing in boxes to be placed in the
cellar ; that is, stand it as near upright as possible, and
pack as closely together as can be done without bruising

CELERIAC, OR TURNIP-BOOTED CELERY. 195

it. As the weather becomes cold, the trenches should be
gradually covered with leaves or litter, to the thickness
of six or eight inches, which will be enough to prevent
severe freezing, and enable the roots to be taken out
easily when wanted. Fig. 79 represents this method of
storing celery in trenches for winter use.

From. 200 to 500 roots is the number usually required
by an ordinary
family. The va-
rieties we recom-
mend, are the San-
dringham White
and Dwarf Red.
The red is as yet
but little used
in this country,
though the flavor
is better, and the
plant altogether "/^A1^ W^^Jmii^S^^}

than the

CELERIAC, OR TUR-

NIP-ROOTED CEL-

ERY, (Apium graveo-

lens var.)

Is grown almost
the same as the
common celery,
and as it requires
but little earth-
ing-up, the rows
may be nearer to-

gether. ItS tur- ^' 8°'~ <!ELERIAO» °B TURNIP-ROOTED CELERY.

nip-like root is used as a salad, mostly by the French and
Germans. It is sometimes stewed, but usually simply
boiled, sliced, and dressed as a salad for the table.

190 GARDENING FOE FLEASUEE.

CORN-SALAD OR FETTICUS, (Fedia olitoria.)

This is sold to a considerable extent in spring in the city
markets for use as an early salad.
For mode of cultivation, etc., see
Spinach, as it is grown in exactly
the same manner.

CHIVES, (Allium Sehoenoprasum.)

An entirely hardy onion - like
plant, of easy culture ; it will grow
on almost any soil for years, with-

, , . , i -i mi i Fig- 81.— COB1T-SALAD.

out being transplanted. The leaves
are the part used, and may be shorn off every two weeks
during summer. It is propagated by tearing to pieces the
old clumps and setting the divisions in rows a foot apart.

CRESS OR PEPPER GRASS, (Lepidium sativum.)

A spring and summer salad plant ; sow in early spring,
and in succession, every week or so if desired, in rows
one foot apart. The curled variety is the best, as it can
be used for garnishing, as well as for salad.

CRESS- WATER, (Nasturtium officinale.)

A hardy aquatic plant, which can only be properly cul-
tivated where there are running streams. If there is a
brook on the place, all that would be wanted for private
use may be had by setting a few plants or sowing seeds
in spring on the margin of the water.

CORN, (Zea Mays.)

The varieties known as ' ' Sweet," are the kinds cultiva-
ted to be used in the green state. Corn may either be
planted in "hills," dropping three or four seeds in a hill
four feet apart each way, or in rows five feet apart, drop-

CUCUMBER. 197

ping the seeds at distances of eight or ten inches in the
rows. In this latitude it is useless to plant corn before
the middle of May. For succession crops it should be
planted every two or three weeks until July first ;
after that date it will not mature here. Corn requires a
rich light soil to be early. The leading varieties are
Dwarf Early Sugar for first early, Crosby's Early Sugar
for second, and Stowell's Evergreen for main crops. Three
or four quarts is required, if succession crops are sown ;
if only one crop, two or three pints will be sufficient.

CUCUMBER, (Oueumis sativus.)

In most places where the Cucumber is grown out-doors,
it is more or less troubled with the " Striped Bug," but
if only a few dozen hills are cultivated, it is not a very
troublesome matter to pick them off, which is about the
only sure way to get rid of them. The safest method of
raising cucumbers, however, is to cover the seeds when
first sown, with the hand-glass described in chapter on
Implements ; which by the
time they are wanted for
cucumbers, are no longer
needed over cauliflowers. If
such hand-glasses are not ob-
tainable, a simple method is
to use a light box ten or
twelve inches square, to place
over the seeds after sowing,
covering it with a pane of BRTANT'S PLANT PKOTECTOB-
glass ; this will not only forward the germination of the
seeds, but will protect the plants against the bugs, until
they are strong enough not to be injured by them.
Bryant's Plant Protector, a simple article, made of light
strips of wood, covered by mosquito netting, may be used
instead of a hand-glass. This will be found equally

198 GARDENING FOP. PLEASURE.

valuable for protecting all plants liable to the attacks of
flying insects, and against the light frosts, so often inju-
rious to tender plants. Light, sandy soil is rather best
for cucumbers; the "hills" should be prepared in the
same manner as for Lima Beans, but set three feet
apart, dropping five or six seeds in each hill. Cucum-
bers may be sown about the middle of May, and in suc-
cession, every three or four weeks, until July. The
White Spine and Long Green Prickly are favorite varie-
ties. The Gherkin or Burr is by some used for pickling.

EGG PLANT, (Solanum Melongena.)

This is always an interesting vegetable to cultivate,
being worthy of a place as an or-
namental plant, as well as being
much prized for culinary use. It
is a native of the Tropics, and
peculiarly tender. We find the
seeds will not germinate freely
under a temperature of seventy
degrees ; and even then, often
tardily, unless the conditions are
just right. Nothing suits them
so well as a warm hot-bed, and to
get plants of the proper size to be
set in the open ground by the end
of May, the seeds should be sown
early in March, and the plants
potted into small pots when an
inch or so in hight. But as only
a dozen or two plants are needed
for a family, whenever the plants Fig 83--EGG PLANT-
can be purchased conveniently, it is never worth the
trouble to attempt the raising of them from seeds, unless
indeed there is room in a hot-bed, or hot-house used

EKDIVE— HEIIBS. 199

for other purposes. Do not plant out sooner than the
25th of May, unless they can be protected by hand-
glasses. Set at distances of four feet apart, preparing
the hills as described for Lima Beans. Each plant should
average a dozen fruits, which will weigh from ten to
forty ounces each. The best flavored variety in our
opinion is the Black Pekin, but the most prolific is the
New York Market. A pure pearly white variety is highly
ornamental, and also of excellent flavor. The Egg Plant
is usually fried in slices, but there are other methods to
be found in the proper authorities in such matters.

ENDIVE, (CicTwrium Endivia.')

A plant related to the lettuce. If sown in early spring,
either in hot-bed or in the open ground, in April, it will
be ready in May. Set out at distances of fifteen inches
apart. It is mostly used towards fall, however, and when
wanted at that time, should be sown in June or July, and
set out in August and September ; nothing further is
done after planting but hoeing to keep down the weeds,
until it attains its full growth, which is from twelve to
eighteen inches in diameter. It is then "blanched,"
either by gathering up the leaves and tying them by
their tops in a conical form, or by placing a slate, or flat
stone, on the plant to exclude the light and effect the
blanching. It is used as a salad. The varieties are the
Moss Curled and Plain-leaved Batavian.

HERBS— SWEET.

Thyme, Sage, Basil, Sweet Marjoram, and Summer
Savory are those in general use ; the seeds of all ex-
cept the last named, should be sown in shallow drills,
one foot apart in May, and the plants will be fit for use

200

GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

in September and October. Summer Savory does better
if the seeds are sown where the plants are to grow.

GARLIC, (AUium sativum.)

Is used mostly by Europeans ; it grows freely on any
soil ; the sets, obtained by breaking up the old bulbs, are
planted in early spring in rows one foot apart, and five or

Fig. 84.— GARLIC BULBS. Fig. 85.— HORSERADISH ROOT.

six inches between the plants. When the leaves wither,
the bulbs are taken up and hung in a dry, cool place.

HORSERADISH, (Nasturtium Armoracia.)

For family use a few roots of this should be planted in
some out-of-the-way corner of the vegetable garden ; a
dozen roots, once- planted, will usually give enough for a
life-time, as it increases and spreads so that there is never
any danger of being without it ; the trouble is, if it is
once admitted into the garden, it is difficult to be got
rid of if so desired.

KOHLRABI — LEEK.

KOHLRABI, OR TURNIP-ROOTED CABBAGE, (Brassica oleraceavar.)

This vegetable resembles a turnip, but is regarded as a

variety of the cab-
bage, with a fleshy
edible stem. Seeds
should be sown in
rows fifteen or eigh-
teen inches apart, in
May or June, and
when an inch high,
thinned out to nine
or ten inches. It is
a favorite vegetable
with the Germans,
and immense quan-
tities are sold in the

ig. 86. — KOHLRABI.

markets of New York in
the fall. There are two va-
rieties, White and Purple.

LEEK, (AUium Pbrrum.)

Sow in April, and plant
out in June or July, in
rows one foot apart and
six inches between the
plants. It is used mainly
during the winter months ;
it is an entirely hardy
plant, yet in order that it

Fig. 87.-.

GARDENING FOE PLEASURE.

may be handy to get at in winter, it is better to put it in
trenches, as advised for preserving celery.

LETTUCE, (Lactuca sativa.)

Lettuce should be sown in a hot-bed or greenhouse if
wanted early ; seeds sown there in February will give nice
plants to set out in April, to mature in May, or if it is
sown in the open ground in April and planted out in
May, it will mature in June, and so on through the
summer season if succession crops are desired, as it only
takes from five to six weeks to mature. The great excel-
lence of lettuce consists in its freshness, and it can rarely
be purchased in perfect condition ; hence, those who
would enjoy it in its best state should raise it themselves.

For early use, to be ready in May, the Curled Silesia
and Boston Market are the best ; while for summer use,
the Curled India and Plain Drumhead should be sown,
as they do not readily run to seed. The Cos varieties are
mainly used in Europe, and are by far the best flavored ;
but from their tendency to run to seed in our warmer
climate, are but little cultivated, though they might be
safely grown in the cool weather, in spring, or in fall.
An ounce of seed of each variety will be ample.

MARTTNIA, (Martynia proboscidea.)

The unripe pods taken when perfectly tender, are used
for pickling. They must be gathered every day or two,
or some will become hard and useless. Sow in open
ground in May, and transplant to two feet each way in
June.

MELON, MUSK, (Cucumis Mek.)

The cultivation of the Melon is almost identical with
that of the cucumber, to which reference may be made.

MELON.

203

The varieties are numerous, those named below are the

most popular.

Green Citron. — Medium size, deeply netted, almost

round in shape,
flesh green, de-
licious flavor.

White Japan.
— A distinct and
white - skinned
sort, flesh yellow,
richly flavored.

Ispahan. — A
valuable variety
for the southern
states, but too
late to mature
in the north. It
grows to upwards
of a foot in
length ; skin,
when fully ripe,
light yellow ;
flesh yellowish-
white, with a rich
perfume and fla-

~ ,

vor. Cassaoa is
a related variety, and in most seasons ripens with us.
Ward's Nectar and Skillman's Netted, are among the
best for the family garden.

MELON, WATER, (OitruUus vulgaris.)

The cultivation of the Water Melon is in all respects
similar to that of the Musk Melon, except that being a
larger and stronger growing plant, it requires to be
planted at greater distances. The hills should not be

. 88.— MARTYNIA.

204 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

less than eight feet apart each way. It delights in
light sandy soil, and will not grow satisfactorily on
heavy, clayey soils. The leading sorts are :

Mountain Sprout. — A large-sized, red-fleshed variety,
of excellent flavor.

PMnney's Early. — Flesh of a deep red, very sweet.

Fig. 89.— WATER-MELON— PHINNEY'g EABLT.

Ice Cream. — A white-fleshed variety, and one of the
earliest ; best to be grown in northern or eastern states.

Orange. — So called because the flesh parts readily from
the rind when ripe. The flesh is red, and rather coarse ;
it keeps longer than any other.

Rattlesnake, also called Joe Johnson, is a fine variety
for the southern states, and is largely grown for shipment
to the northern markets.

MUSTARD, (Sinapis alba.)

For use and cultivation see Cress.

MUSHROOM, (Agaricus campestrls.)

Many who have a taste for horticultural pursuits grow
mushrooms as much for the novelty of the thing as for
the use, for it is certainly very gratifying for an ama-

MUSHROOM. 205

teur to find that he has succeeded with a crop of this cu-
rious vegetable in mid-winter, when everything outside
is frost-locked and snow-bound. I have said that the
novelty is attractive, for in growing all other plants the
cultivator sees something tangible to start with, either
seeds, plants, or roots, but with the mushroom it may be
said he sees neither, for no seeds can be discovered either
with the naked eye or with a magnifier, and it requires
some faith to believe the minute thread-like substance
we call " spawn," to be either plants or roots.

Mushrooms are always raised in the dark, and any
cellar, stable, or an out-house of any sort, wherein a
temperature of 45° to 65° can be commanded, will grow
them. There are various methods followed by mushroom
growers, but I will only give one, premising that if the
directions given are strictly followed, success is just as
certain as in growing a crop of peas or potatoes. Let
horse droppings be procured from the stables each day,
in quantities not less than a barrow load ; to every bar-
row load of droppings, add half the quantity of fresh
loam, from a pasture or sod land, or soil of any kind
that has not been manured, (the objection to old ma-
nured soil being that it may contain the spores of spuri-
ous fungi.) Let the droppings and soil be mixed to-
gether day by day, as the manure can be procured ; or
if they can be had all at once in sufficient quantity, so
much the better. Let the heap, (which should be under
cover), be turned every day, so that it is not allowed to
heat violently until you have got together a sufficient
quantity to form a bed of the desired size. From the
prepared droppings and soil, begin to form the bed. A
convenient width is four feet, and the length may be as
great as desired. First spread a thin layer of the com-
post, pounding it down firmly with a brick or mallet,
layer after layer, until it reaches a depth of eight inches.
Be careful that the thickness is just about eight inches,

206 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

as if more, it would heat too violently, and if less, it
would not heat enough. Into this bed plunge a ther-
mometer ; in two or three days the bed will heat, so that
the thermometer will rise to 100° or over. As soon as the
temperature declines to 90°, take a sharp stick and make
holes an inch or so in diameter all over the bed, at about a
foot apart, and six inches deep ; into these holes drop
two or three pieces of " spawn," and cover up the hole
again with the compost of which the bed is made, and
beat it slightly again, so that the bed will present the
same level surface as before the spawn was put in. Let
the bed remain in this condition for ten or twelve days,
by which time the spawn will have run all through it.
Now spread evenly over the surface of the bed about two
inches of fresh loam, press it down moderately with the
back of a spade, and cover up the bed with hay or straw
to the thickness of three or four inches. If this opera-
tion is finished in November or December, and the place
has an average temperature of 55°, you may look out for
a crop in January or February. The bed will continue
bearing about three or four weeks, and the crop is usually
enormous, often producing a bushel on two square yards
of space. After the first crop is gathered, a second, and
even a third, can be taken if desired, from the same bed
without further trouble than to spread a little fresh soil
on the surface, giving it a gentle watering and covering
up with hay as before. Great care must be taken that
after placing the spawn in the newly made bed, the
earth covering is not put on sooner than ten or twelve
days ; in my first attempt at mushroom growing, I failed
two years in succession, because I put on the soil
when the spawn was first put into the bed ; by so doing,
the steam arising from the manure was prevented from
passing off, and the result was, that the spawn rotted. I
believe this very common error is the cause of most of
the failures in raising mushrooms.

NASTURTIUM — OKKA.

207

NASTURTIUM— INDIAN CRESS, (Trapceolum majm.)

A liiglily ornamental plant, cultivated in flower-gar-
dens as well as in the kitchen garden. The shoots and
flowers are some-
times used in
salads, but it is
mainly grown for
its fruit or seed
pods, which are
pickled in vine-
gar and used as
a substitute for
capers. The plant
is of the easiest
culture. Sow in
shallow drills in
May. The tall
variety will reach
a hight of ten or
fifteen feet if
furnished with
strings or wires,
and makes an
excellent screen
for shade, or for
quickly covering
up and conceal- Fig- 90.— OKRA.

ing any unsightly place. The dwarf variety is grown
like peas, and staked with brush.

OKRA OR GUMBO, (Abelmoschus esculentus.)

A vegetable of the easiest culture. Sow in drills in
May, three feet apart for dwarf, and four feet for tall
sorts, in drills two or three inches deep. The long pods
when very young and tender, are used in soups, stews,
etc. , and are very nutritious.

208 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

ONION, (Alliurn cepa.)

Onions are raised either by "sets," which are small
dry onions grown the previous year, or from seeds. When
grown from the sets, they should be planted out as early
in spring as the ground is dry enough to work ; plant
them in rows one foot apart, with sets three or four
inches apart. When raised from sets, the onions can
be used in the green state in June, or they will be
ripened off by July. When raised from seeds, these are
sown at about the same distance between the rows, and
when the young plants are an inch or so high, they are
thinned out to two or three inches apart. It is import-
ant that onion-seed be sown very early. In this lati-
tude it should be sown not later than the middle of
April, for if delayed until May, warm weather sets in
and delays, or rather prolongs the growth until fall, and
often the bulbs will not ripen ; we find that unless the
onion-tops dry off and the bulbs ripen by August, they
will hardly do so later. The best known sorts are White
Portugal or Silver Skinned, Yellow Dutch or Strasburg,
and Wethersfield Eed.

Two kinds are grown exclusively from bulbs ; one of
these is the Potato Onion, or " Multipliers," which in-
crease by the bulb splitting up and dividing itself into
six or eight smaller bulbs, which in turn form the sets
to plant for the next crop. The other variety is what is
called "Top Onion," which forms little bulbs on the
stem in the place of flowers ; these are in clusters, and
about the size of hazel nuts. These small bulbs are
broken apart and planted in spring at the same distances
as the "sets" referred to above ; all mature in August.

PARSLEY, (Carum Petroselinum.)

But a very small quantity of this is usually wanted in
the family garden. Sow in shallow drills in April or

PAKSNIP — PEA.

209

May. A good plan is to sow in shallow boxes as much as
may be needed ; they can be placed wherever there is
moderate light, and no frost ; by this means a fresh
supply may be kept on hand in hard winter weather,
when it is most desirable to have it, either for garnish-
ing dishes or for other uses. The best variety to grow is
the Moss, or Double Curled.

PARSNIP, (Pastinaca saliva.)

For mode of cultivation of parsnips, see carrot, as their
culture is identical, except that this
being hardy, can be left out in
winter, while in this latitude carrots
cannot. A portion of the crop may
be dug and stored in the cellar or
in trenches, and the remainder may
be left until spring. The Hollow
Crowned is best for general use.

PEA, (Pisum sativum.)

The pea is indispensable in the
garden, and there is more satisfac-
tion in growing it on one's own
ground, than there is in raising any
other vegetable. If too old when
picked, or stale, which is too often
the case when purchased from the
dealers, peas have but little resem-
blance to those taken directly from
the vines. For an early crop peas

•u ij-u *ru A J.1-U- Fig. 91.— PARSNIP.

should be one of the first things sown
in the spring. We prefer to sow in double rows, which saves
half the labor in staking or bushing up, and gives nearly
the same crop to the row as if sown in single rows.
Double rows are made at eight or nine inches apart, and

210 GAKDE^IKG FOB PLEASUKE.

four feet from other rows. Set a line and draw the
drills with a hoe three or four inches deep ; the seed
should be sown to lay as near as possible an inch or so
apart. The Sidney Seed-Sower, mentioned in the chapter
on Implements, is a most convenient affair for sowing
peas ; one can with a few minutes practice distribute the
seed with great regularity. In order to have a succession
of crops of peas, they should be sown every two or three
weeks until July. If succession crops are grown, an
average quantity for a family would be twelve quarts ; if
only first crops of early and late, from four to six quarts
will be sufficient.

The varieties of peas are almost innumerable, and new
sorts — or at least sorts with new names — are sent out
every year. They may be classed in two groups, the
round and the wrinkled peas. The round varieties are
the earliest, but they are as much inferior to the wrinkled
or marrow kinds, as field is to sweet corn; these two
groups are subdivided according to hight. The earliest
pea is Daniel O'Rourke, under some of its dozen or more
names, for most of the "early" and "extra early" peas
are only selected strains of this, which, under other names,
dates back into the last century. It is of medium hight,
productive, and valuable as yielding the earliest crops.
The earliest of the wrinkled sorts is the Alpha, of medium
hight. The standard late sort is the CJiampion of Eng-
land, an old variety, which has not yet been superseded.
The dwarf sorts, which grow only about a foot high and
need no brush, are very handy in the family garden, as
they may be used to occupy odd spaces. The leading
dwarfs are Tom Thumb, early but round, and Little Gem,
productive and of the best quality. The catalogues give
the merits of numerous other sorts, early, medium, and
late.

PEPPER — POTATO — PUMPKIN. 211

PEPPER, or CAPSICUM, (Capsicum annuum.)

The Pepper is sown and cultivated in all respects the
same as the Egg-Plant, which may be referred to. The
varieties are the Bull-Nose, or Bell, and the Cayenne.

POTATO, (Solanum tuberosum.)

Potatoes are grown by planting the tubers, either cut
or whole, it makes but little difference which ; if large,
cut them ; if small, leave them uncut. They are usually
planted in drills three feet apart, and four or five inches
deep. The ground should be prepared by first spreading
in the drills a good coat of stable manure, say two inches
deep, upon which are planted the tubers or sets, at dis-
tances of eight or ten inches apart. In a warm exposure
planting may be begun early in April, and the crop will
be fit for use in June. Some of the small-leaved varieties
such as the Ash-leaved Kidney, were formerly grown un-
der hand glasses, or in frames, to forward them, but now
this is hardly worth the trouble, as our supplies from
southern latitudes are so early that it is no longer desir-
able to force the crop. The generally favorite variety for
early crops is still the Early Rose ; and for general crop,
Peach-Blows; but there are scores of other varieties,
which have a special or local reputation.

PUMPKIN, (Oucurbita Pepo.)

Pumpkins are still grown in many gardens with a te-
nacity that is astonishing, when it should long ago have
been known that they have no business there, as their
first cousins, the squashes, are eminently superior for
every culinary purpose whatever. The Pumpkin is a val-
uable product for the farm, as a food for cattle, but for
nothing else. If people will waste valuable land in rais-
ing pumpkins, they may plant them the same as directed
for squashes.

212 GARDENING FOE PLEASURE.

RADISH, (Raphanw sativus.)

One of the first vegetables that we crave in spring is
the Radish, and it is so easy of culture that every family
can have it fresh, crisp, and in abundance. The
smallest garden patch of a few feet square, will give
enough for a family. It is sown either in drills or
broadcast, care being taken that the seed is not put
in too thickly ; from one to two inches apart either in
drill or broadcast, being the proper distance, as usually
every seed germinates. The best varieties are the Red
and French Turnip, and the Short Top Long, Red, or
White. If wanted specially early, the above sorts are
best for hot-bed forcing ; for summer and winter use the
yellow and gray varieties are preferred.

RHUBARB OR PEE PLANT, (fiheum Shaponticum.)

Rhubarb may be planted in either fall or spring, using
either plants raised from the seed, or sets obtained by di-
visions of the old roots, taking care to have a bud to each.
Set at distances of three or four feet apart each way.
The place where each plant is to be set, should be dug
eighteen inches deep and the same in width, and the
soil mixed with two or three shovelfuls of well-rotted
stable manure. Two dozen strong plants will be enough
for the wants of an average family. If desired in winter
or early spring, a few roots can be taken up and placed in
a warm cellar or any such dark and warm place. The
roots, if the cellar is dark, may be put in a box with
earth around them, or if in a light cellar, they may be
put in the bottom of a barrel with earth, and the top
covered. The only care needed is to see that the roots
do not get too dry, and to water if necessary, when it
will grow with but little care The useful portions is the
long and thick leaf-stalks, and these when forced are
much finer in flavor than when grown exposed to air and

FALSIFY. Zlo

light in the open garden. The plants in the open ground
should have the flower-stalks cut away as they appear.

Fig. 92.— BHUBAKB.

In gathering do not cut the leaf -stalks, as they will read-
ily come away by a side-wise pull, and leave no remnant
to decay. The varieties are Hyatt's Victoria an d Linnaeus.

SALSIFY, OR OYSTER PLANT, (Tragapogon porrifolius.)

The culture of this vegetable is the same in all respects
as for carrots, which see. Like the parsnip, it is hardy,
and can be left out during winter in any district without
injury from frost. It is rapidly becoming more popular.

214 GARDEKIKG FOR PLEASURE.

It is stewed like parsnips or carrots, is used to make soup,

Fig. 93.— SALSIFY. Fig. 94.— SCOBZONEBA..

which has a decided flavor of the oyster, or is first boiled
and then fried. There is but one kind.

SCORZONERA— BLACK SALSIFY, (Scorzonera Hispanica.}

This is somewhat different in flavor from Salsify, and

SEA KALE. 215

is preferred to it by many ; it has much broader leaves,
but it is cultivated and used in the same manner.

SEA KALE, (Crambe maritima.)

Sea Kale is a favorite vegetable in European gardens,
but here, as yet, almost unknown. Anticipating that at
no distant day it may be as generally cultivated as it de-
serves to be, I briefly describe the mode of culture. The
seeds of Sea Kale should be sown in the greenhouse, or
in a slight hot-bed in February or March, and when the
plants are an inch or two in hight, they should be potted
into two or three-inch pots and placed in a cold frame to
harden, until sufficiently strong
to be planted in the open
ground. It should then be set
out in rows three feet apart,
with two feet between the
plants, on land enriched as for
any ordinary cabbage crop. If
the plants and the soil in which
they have been planted are both
good, and cultivation has been
properly attended to, by keeping
the plants well hoed during the
summer, it will have " crowns"

•, . Fiff. 95 — SEA KALE

strong enough to give a crop the

next season. In the northern states it will be necessary
to cover the rows with three or four inches of leaves, to
protect the plants from frost. Sea Kale is only fit for
use when te blanched," and to effect this, on the approach
of spring the " crowns" should be covered with some
light material, such as sand or leaf -mold, to the depth of
twelve or fifteen inches, so that the young shoot being
thus excluded from the light, will become blanched in
growing through this covering. Sometimes cans made

216 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE.

for the purpose, or large flower-pots, or even wooden
boxes, are inverted over the plants, the object in each
case being to exclude the light. If it is desired to force
Sea Kale, or forward it earlier, the materials used to
make hot-beds, leaves or stable manure are heaped over
the pots or cans in a sufficient quantity to generate the
proper heat to forward or force on the growth of the
plants. The young shoots are cut from the plant before
the leaves are developed, and when cooked, have a flavor
something between asparagus and cauliflower, but by
most persons much preferred to either. The engraving
shows a young shoot when ready for the table.

SHALLOTS, (Allium Ascalonicum.)

A plant of the onion genus, which is cultivated by set-
ting out the divided roots in September in rows a foot
apart, allowing six inches between them. It is entirely
hardy, and fit for use in early spring.

SPINACH, (Spinaeia oleracea.)

Spinach is a vegetable of easy culture. It may either
be sown in spring or fall. If in fall, the proper time is
from the 10th to the 25th of September, in rows one foot
apart ; sow rather thickly. Cover the plants with two
or three inches of hay or leaves on the approach of severe
frost in December. When sown in the fall, the crop of
course is ready for use much earlier than when sown in
spring, as half the growth is made in the fall months.
By the time the seed can be sown in spring, the crop that
has been wintered over will be coming into use. To fol-
low the crop thus wintered, seeds should be sown in the
same manner in spring, as early as the soil can be worked,
and another sowing may be made two weeks later. The
round-seeded variety is best for winter sowing, and the
prickly seeded for spring. About four ounces is enough
for ordinary wants for either season's sowing.

SPINACH, SUBSTITUTES FOB.

217

SPINACH, SUBSTITUTES FOB.

In the southern states, or even in our northern sum-
mers, Spinach runs rapidly
to seed, if sown in hot
weather, and several plants
may be used as substitutes.
Among these are Swiss
Chard, a species of beet,
sometimes called Spinach
Beet, or Perpetual Spinach.
Young plants of the ordi-
nary beet are by some pre-
ferred to spinach ; ordinarily beets need thinning, and
the seed is sometimes sown very thickly, in order that
there may be an abundance of thinnings to use as spinach,
or beet greens ; they are used with the young beet attach-
ed, which should not be thicker than an ordinary lead-
pencil ; if larger, the leaves will be too strong. Another
substitute is

NEW ZEALAND SPINACH, (Tetragonia expansa.)

This is a remarkable plant, of low branching habit,

/ig. 97. — NBW ZEALAND SPINACH.

and grows with surprising luxuriance during hot
10

218

GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

weather. Single plants often measure from five to eight
feet in diameter. The leaves are used exactly as ordinary
spinach. It should not be sown before warm weather
sets in in May, and the plants should be set out in hills
three or four feet apart each way,

SQUASH, (CucurUta Pspo and G maxima.)

The summer varieties are, among others, the White
and Yellow Bush and Summer Crookneck. As with

Fig. 98.— SQUASH— WHITE BUSH.

all plants of this class, it is useless to sow these before
warm weather in May, and the directions given for cu-
cumbers and melons, are alike applicable to the squash,
except that the distances apart of the hills ; these should

Fig. 9'J. — SQUASH — SUMMER CROOKNECK.

be from three to four feet for the bush sorts, and from
six to eight for the other varieties which " run " or make
a long vine. The fall or winter squashes are planted at
the same time, but are allowed to mature or ripen, while

SWEET POTATO.

the summer varieties are used green. They are usually
planted eight or nine feet apart, in hills prepared in the
usual way. These squashes are great feeders, and for
the best results the soil should be well enriched, besides
the special manuring in the hills, as the vines throw out
roots at every joint to assist in feeding and maturing the
heavy crop they usually bear. The popular varieties are

Fig. 100.— SQUASH— MABBLEHEAD.

Hubbard, Marblehead, Yokohama, and Winter Crook-
neck. Most of the winter varieties, if kept in a dry at-
mosphere at a temperature from forty to fifty degrees,
will keep until May. A garret room in a moderately well
he ited dwelling house, will often be a very suitable place
for storing them.

SWEET POTATO, (Ipamcea Batatas.)

It is useless to attempt to grow the Sweet Potato on
anything but a light and dry soil. On clayey soils the
plant not only grows poorly, but the potatoes raised upon
such soil are watery, and poorly flavored. The plants
are raised by laying the roots on their sides on a hot-bed
or bench of a greenhouse, and covering them over with

220

GARDENING FOB PLEASURE.

sand, about the first week in May; by keeping up
an average temperature of 75° or 80°, fine plants will be
produced by June 1st, at which, time they should be
planted in this vicinity. The plants are set in hills three
feet apart each way, or on
ridges four feet apart, and
12 or 15 inches between
the plants, drawing the
earth up to them as they
grow, until the top of the
ridge or hill is four or six
inches above the level.
The soil under the ridges
should be highly manured,
and as the vines grow they
should be kept clear of
weeds ; when late in the
season they show a dis-
position to root at the
joints, they must be
moved every week or so ;
this is easily done by run-
ning a rake handle or
other stick under the vines
and lifting them sufficient-
ly to draw out the small
roots upon the stem. As
is the case with many other
vegetables of which the
plants or sets are raised in
large quantities for sale, it is better and cheaper when
Sweet Potato plants are procurable, to purchase them,
than to attempt to raise the small number required in a
private garden. A hundred plants not costing more than
a dollar, are all that most families would require. The
Nansemond is the favorite variety.

Fig. 101.— SWEET POTATO.

TOMATO — TUKNIP. 221

TOMATO, (Lycopersteum escukntum.)

If any vegetable is grown in a family garden, it is al-
most certain to be the Tomato. Hundreds of people
who have only a few feet of ground at their disposal,
manage to cultivate a dozen or two of tomato-plants,
though they may have nothing else ; so well is it known
that I think few of my readers will require to be told
much about its culture. The Tomato will grow any-
where, and under almost any circumstances, provided
always that it has the necessary high temperature ; it is
essentially a plant of the Tropics, and need never be sown
in a hot-bed here before March, or planted in the open
ground before the middle of May. When cultivated in
private gardens, the tomato-vine should always be pro-
vided with some sort of trellis, or be tacked up against a
fence or wall. By this treatment, not only will a heavier
crop be obtained, but the flavor will be better ; when the
fruit rests on the ground it has often an inferior flavor,
particularly when eaten raw, and is also more apt to de-
cay. A few dozen plants usually suffice for an ordinary
family, and if there are no hot-beds or other glass ar-
rangements on hand, the plants had better be purchased,
as they are sold cheaply everywhere. The favorite vari-
eties are the Trophy, Champion Cluster, and Conqueror.

TURNIP, (Brassica campestris.)

The Turnip, if wanted for an early crop, is sown in
early spring, as directed for beets. The best sorts are the
varieties known as White and Purple-top Strap-leaved
and Yellow Aberdeen. If for winter or fall use, sowing
should be deferred until July or August. The Ruta
Baga or Swedes, being sown in July, and the earlier
winter sorts, such as Yellow Globe or Flat Dutch, are
sown in August.

GAKDEtflNG FOB PLEASURE.
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS.

In concluding the section of this book devoted to veg-
etable growing, we will give a few general instructi&ns
that may have been omitted in the details already given.
In sowing all kinds of seeds, more particularly those of
small size, be careful, if the soil is dry, to "firm" or
press down the surface of the bed or row after sowing,
with a light roller or back of a spade, more especially if
the weather is beginning to get warm. Crops are often
lost through the failure of the seeds to germinate, for
the simple reason that the soil is left loose about the tiny
seeds, and the dry atmosphere penetrates to them, shriv-
eling them up until all vitality is destroyed. Again for
the same reason, when setting out plants of any kind, be
certain that the soil is pressed close to the root. In our
large plantings in market gardening, particularly in sum-
mer, we make it a rule in dry weather to turn back on
the row after planting it with the dibber or trowel, and
press the earth firmly to each plant with the foot ; we
have seen whole acres of celery and cabbage plants lost,
solely through neglect of this precaution. Never work
the soil while it is so wet as to clog, better wait a week
for it to dry than to stir it if wet. In no "work in which
men are engaged is the adage, " A stitch in time saves
nine," more applicable than to the work of the farm or
garden. The instant that weeds appear, attack thorn
with the hoe or rake ; do not wait for them to get a
foot high, or a twelfth part of it, but break every inch of
the surface crust of the ground just so soon as a germ of
weed growth shows itself. And it will be better to do it
even before any weeds show, for by using a small sharp .
steel rake, two or three days after your crop is planted
or sown, you will kill the weeds just as their seeds are
germinating. The newly developed germ of the strongest
•weed is at that time very tender. In my market garden

GARDEN IMPLEMENTS. 223

operations I had one man whose almost exclusive duty
it was to work in summer with the steel rake, and in a
few days after a crop was planted, the surface was raked
over, destroying the thousands of weeds just ready to ap-
pear. Had we waited for the weeds to be seen, so that
they were too large to be destroyed by the raking, four
men could not have done with the hoe the work accom-
plished by this man with the rake.

CHAPTER LL
GAEDEN IMPLEMENTS.

The tool-shed is an important and necessary append-
age to a well kept garden. The following list includes such
implements as are generally needed in private gardens :

THE WHEELBARROW, (Fig. 102). — The wheelbarrow is

Fig. 102.— GARDEN WHEELBARROW.

an important vehicle in the garden, for the moving of
soils, carrying manures, and for conveying the products
of the vegetable garden to the house or place of storage,
and numerous other purposes. It may be purchased of
different sizes and styles, or can be " home-made " by
those possessing a little mechanical skill.

224

FOR PLEASURE.

THE SPADE, (Fig. 103). — The uses of the spade in a
garden are too obvious, and general, to need description.
The best in use are Ames' cast-steel, which are light,
strong, and durable, and work clean and bright.

THE SHOVEL, (Fig. 104).— The shovel is used for load-
ing, and for mixing and spreading composts and short
manures. They are made with long or short handles.

THE DIGGING FORK, (Fig. 105), or Forking Spade, is
used instead of a spade to dig in
manures, to loosen the earth about
the roots of trees, or for taking up
root crops ; being less liable to cut
or injure them than the
spade. It is often

Tig. 103. Fig. 104. Fig. 105. Fig. 106. Fig. 107. Fig. 108.

used instead of the spade, as by its aid the soil can be
more readily broken and pulverized.

THE MANURE FORK, (Fig. 106). — Is made of cast-steel
with from four to six prongs, and is used for mixing,

GARDEN IMPLEMENTS.

223

loading, and spreading manures, work which could not
be efficiently done without it.

THE COMMON on DKAW HOE. — There are several
patterns of draw hoes, but the one in general use is the
common square hoe, as represented in fig. 107. Its
uses in the garden are manifold, and it has frequently to
do duty for several other implements. Its principle uses
are to clean the surface of the ground from weeds, to
open trenches for seeds, and to cover them.

THE PEONG HOE, (Fig. 108). — This is one of the most
useful of all garden tools, and is far superior to the blade
hoe for stirring and pulverizing the soil. It cannot, it
is true, be used where weeds have been allowed to grow to
any considerable hight, but then we claim that in all well
regulated gardens, weeds should never be allowed to grow
so large that they cannot be destroyed by the prong hoe.

THE DUTCH OB PUSH HOE, (Fig. 109), is sometimes
preferred to the preceding
for cutting the weeds be-
tween the rows of vege-
tables, a work which can be
done very quickly by its aid ;

Fig. 109.

Fig. 110.

Fig. 111. Fig. 112. Fig. 113.

it is not so generally useful as the draw hoe, but is better
for the special purposes of destroying weeds.
THE BEEL AND LINE, (Fig. 110), are necessary in

226 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

every well regulated garden, enabling us to plant in
straight and accurate rows. The line should be of strong
hemp, and is wound upon the reel when not in use.

THE PRUNING SAW, (Fig. Ill), is used for cutting off
branches that are too large for the knife, for removing
dead ones, etc. It can be had in various sizes, from
fourteen to twenty inches in length.

THE GARDEN TROWEL, (Fig. 112), is used for setting
the smaller kinds of plants when transferred from pots to
the open ground; for transplanting annuals and many
other uses, it is a very necessary little implement.

PRUNING AND BUDDING KNIVES, (Fig. 113), are ne-
cessary to every gardener. They are of different sizes
and shapes, for the various purposes of grafting, bud-
ding, etc., and are made of the best steel.

GRAPE SCISSORS. — These are slender-pointed scissors,
used for thinning out the berries of foreign grapes when

Fig. 114.— LAWN SCFTHE.

they are about half grown, so that those that are left
may have room to develop. This operation should never
be neglected if large berries and well shaped bunches
are desired.

FLOWER GATHERERS. — A very useful article ; the
scissors cutting off, and at the same time holding fast
the flower or fruit after it is cut, thus enabling one
to reach much farther to cut flowers or fruits than if
both hands had to be used. It is particularly useful in
gathering rose-buds, as the stem can be cut off with but
little danger from the thorns.

LAWN SCYTHES, (Fig. 114). — The lawn scythe is now
but little used, the lawn mower taking its place, unless

GARDEN IMPLEMENTS.

227

MOWER.

on hill-sides or among trees or shrubs, where the lawn

mower cannot be worked.
LAWN MOWERS, (Fig. 115). — The great improvements

made in Lawn

Mowers during the

past few years, and

the low price at

which they may

now be obtained,

have made their

introduction com-

mon to every gar-

den. They are of

many sizes, from

the small machine

that can be easily

worked by a boy,

and admirably adapted for city garden plots, to the

large horse mowers, that may be daily seen in use in our

larger parks. We have in use both the " Excelsior " and

"Archimedean" Lawn Mowers, and have found them

excellent in all respects.

THE GARDEN ROLLER, (Fig. 116), is indispensable to
a well kept lawn, and should always
follow after mowing, keeping the
ground level and compact ; and after
gravel walks have been raked over, the
roller is necessary to smooth them down.

THE WOODEN LAWN EAKE, (Fig.
/ / «KA 117), is used for raking off lawns pre-
vious to and after using the scythe or
lawn mower, and for removing dead
Fig. 116.— ROLLER, leaves and other rubbish.
THE RAKE, (Fig. 118), is used to level the surface of the
ground after it has been spaded or hoed, and to prepare

228

GARDENING FOE PLEASURE.

it for the reception of seeds or plants. Eakes are made
of different sizes, for convenience in using between rows
of plants, with from six to six-
teen teeth. When a crop like
cabbages is newly planted, we
use the rake in preference to
anything else, as raking over the
surface before the weeds start
to grow, destroys the germ of
the weed, never allowing it to
appear at all.

THE GRASS EDGING KNIFE,
(Fig. 119), is used for cutting
the grass edgings of flower-beds,
its rounded edge fitting into
curved lines, for which the
spade would be unsuitable.

Fig. 117. Fig. 118. Fig. 120.

Fig. 121. Fig. 122.

THE SICKLE, (Fig. 120).— This is a most useful imple-
ment for switching around and trimming off grass, in

GARDEN IMPLEMENTS.

229

places where the scythe or lawn mower cannot be used,
or where the place to be cut is small.

HEDGE SHEARS, (Fig. 121), are better fitted for clip-
ping hedges than the Bill Hook, some-
times used for the purpose, particularly
in inexperienced hands. A line should
be set at the hight to which the hedge
is to be cut, as a guide to work by.

HAND-PRUNING SHEARS, (Fig. 122).
— These are very efficient and
useful ; they will cut off a small
branch as clean as if a knife
had been used. They are in-
dispensable in pruning small
fruit-trees and vines, and for
use in the grapery and garden.

POLE OR TREE PRUNING
SHEARS, (Fig. 123). — These
shears are attached to a pole,
and operated by means of a lever
moved by a cord or a wire ;
they enable one to cut off branch-
es from trees, shrubbery, etc.,
that are beyond the reach of
the ordinary pruning shears.
Branches of an inch and a half in diameter may be easily
cut off with this instrument.

GARDEN SYRINGE, (Fig. 124). — The syringe is in

Fig. 123.— TREE PRUNER.

. 124. — GARDEN SYRINGE.

daily use in the greenhouse or conservatory, where syr-
inging is necessary to keep the plants in a flourishing

230

GARDENING FOil PLEASURE.

and healthy condition. They are made of several sizes
and patterns, and fitted with roses for dispersing water
with varying force.

WATERING-POT. — A watering-pot is indispensable in
the greenhouse or conservatory,
where it is daily needed. It
should be obtained of a suit-
able size, from one to four gal-
lons, with a rose for sprinkling,
which may be detached at will.

THE EXCELSIOR PUMP, (Fig.
125), is a very compact and use-
ful implement for greenhouse
and garden work. It is easily
operated, and throws a continu-
ous stream. It is very effective
for watering shrubbery, gardens,
or lawns, and may be used in an
emergency as a fire extinguish-
er and prevent a conflagration.

THE SIDNEY SEED-SOWER,
(Fig. 126). — This is a very useful implement, enabling

. 135.— EXCELSIOR PUMP.

Fig. 126. Fig. 128.

the operator to sow seeds with perfect regularity, especi-
ally in wet or windy weather. It will distribute large or

GARDEN IMPLEMENTS.

231

129.— SMALL GARDEN SET.

small seeds with equal regularity, either broadcast or in
drills or pots.

THE EXCELSIOR WEEDING HOOK, (Fig. 127), is a very

handy implement
for removing weeds
from among small
and tender plants,
and for stirring up
the soil. It can he
used between rows
of seedlings, orna-
mental plants, or
wherever it is desirable to remove weeds, without in-
jury to the plants or soiling the hands.

NOTES' HAND WEEDER, (Fig. 128), is a kind of minia-
ture hand hoe, and is very convenient and useful for
working between plants,
dressing pots, and clean-
ing away weeds, where a
large hoe could not be
used to good advantage.
LADIES' AND CHIL-
DRENS' GARDEN TOOLS,
(Fig. 129).— In all flower
gardens there is a great
deal of hand-work to be
done. This lot of small
implements consisting of
a spade, fork, rake, and
hoe, will be found very
useful in working on
small flower borders.

Fig. 130. — STEP LADDER.

STEP LADDERS, (Fig. 130). — The step-ladder is always
useful in a garden, especially during the fruiting season.
It is made in different sizes, varying from three to ten

232

GARDENING FOB PLEASURE.

feet, and weighing from ten to thirty pounds ; it is made
with flat steps, so that a person may stand upon them
while working, and can he extended or contracted as re-
quired. For use amongst large trees, in the orchard, a
much greater length of ladder is required, and there are
various forms of orchard ladders in use, but the step-
ladder is sufficient for all ordinary garden uses.

HAND-GLASSES. — The uses of these have been men-
tioned under cauliflowers, cucumber, etc. Home-made
hand-glasses, being simply a
small frame covered with a pane
of glass, are very useful, but as
they exclude some light they
are not equal to those made with
glass all around. Hand-glasses
with metal frames and glass
sides and top, are made of differ-
ent sizes and styles, one of the

Fig. 131.— HAND GLASS.

more elaborate of which is shown in fig. 131. Though
somewhat expensive, they will, if carefully used, last
many years.

Trellises, or supports for plants, are needed in the
flower and vegetable garden not only for climbers, but
for keeping plants which have weak
stems within proper bounds. Trel-
lises for pots may be purchased
ready-made, as may those for climb-
ing roses and such plants ; they are
usually made of rattan upon a frame
of light wooden stakes, and some
are made entirely of wire. A per-
son of a mechanical turn can
readily make all that will be need-
ed. A few engravings are given here as suggestions.
Fig. 132 shows a useful support made with a barrel hoop
and staves ; the same plan may be carried out with two

Fig. 132.

GARDEN IMPLEMENTS.

233

Fig. 133.— TOMATO TRELLIS.

or more hoops, and laths, if staves are too heavy. This

will answer for tomatoes, raspberries, and various other

plants. A more
permanent to-
mato trellis is
shown in fig.
133, in which
slats are sup-
ported by &
shaped up-
rights. If put
1 together with
^-^ screws, such a
trellis may be
carefully put
away in the fall

and made to last several years. A rustic trellis, like that

in fig. 134, is often useful in the flower garden, or it

may serve when covered with climbers to divide the

flower from the

vegetable gar-
den. It is made

of sticks of cedar

or other durable

wood, set as

shown in the

engraving, and

tied where the

bars cross one

another with

strong tarred

twine. With

these examples

as suggestions, one will find no difficulty in making more

elaborate supports and with other materials.

Fig. 134.— RUSTIC TRELLIS.

234: GARDENING FOE FLEASUEE.

MONTHLY CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS.

Although I have endeavored throughout the foregoing pages to
be particular in stating the season or date at which each gardening
operation should be done, still it may save time to the novice, and
be otherwise of advantage, to briefly suggest what work should be
done each month.

JANUARY.

GREENHOUSE AND FLOWER-GARDEN. — But little need now be
done hi either; in the greenhouse care must be exercised with the
fires to protect against frost, as this is usually the coldest month
of the year ; it is also that in which there is the least sunshine.
But little ventilating neel be done, but when it does become neces-
sary to do it, caution must be used ; be careful to raise the ven-
tilating sash only so high that the heated air from the green-
house will be able to drive back the outer air to such an extent as
not to chill the plants. For example, occasionally after a very
cold night, where severe firing has been necessary to keep up the
required temperature, say to 60°, it happens that the sun comes
out bright during the following day, so that by noon or before,
the temperature may be at 100° inside the greenhouse, though out-
side it may be nearly at zero ; in such case the raising of the sashes
an inch or two will rapidly lower the temperature of the green-
house, so that an hour or so of such ventilating would be all that is
required. If the greenhousa is heated by flue or even by hot
water, examine nightly, that no combustible material is laid on the
flue or thrown against the chimney of the boiler. As little fresh
air can be given, insects are to be watched this month closely ; by
the use of fire heat a dry atmosphere will be created in which the
red spider luxuriates ; nothing answers so well for its destruction
as copiously syringing the plants at night, and splashing the paths
with water, as it cannot exist to an injurious extent in a moist at-
mosphere. The Aphis, or "green fly," must also be destroyed, cr
it will soon cause great injury to the plants. Tobacco in almost
any form is death to it ; it may be either used by burning the
stems or dusted on as snuff, or syringed on in liquid form ; for full
directions see body of the work. Hyacinths and other bulbs that

MONTHLY CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. 235

have been kept in cellar or other dark, cool place, may now be
brought into the light of the greenhouse, provided they have filled
the pots with roots, if not well rooted, leave them where they are
until they are so, or select such of them as are best, and leave the
others until ready. In the outside flower-garden litcle can be done
except that shrubs may be pruned, or new work, such as making
walks or grading, if weather permits.

FRUIT-GARDEN. — Pruning, staking up, or mulching, can be
done if the weather is such that the workman can stand out. No
plant is injured by being pruned in cold weather, though the
pruner may be?.

VEGETABLE GARDEN. — Nothing can be done this month hi the
northern states except to prepare manure, and get sashes, tools,
etc., in working order, but in sections of the country where there
is but little or no frost, the hardier kinds of seeds and plants may
be sown and planted, such as asparagus, cabbage, cauliflower, car-
rot, leek, lettuce, onion, parsnip, peas, spinach, turnip, etc., etc.
In any section where these seeds can be sown in the open ground,
it is an indication that hot-beds may be begun for the sowing of
such tender vegetables as tomatoes, egg and pepper plants, etc.,
though unless in the extreme southern states, hot-beds had better
not be started before the first of February.

FEBRUARY.

GREENHOUSE AND FLOWER-GARDEN. — The directions for Jan-
uary will in the main apply to this month, except that now some
of the hardier annuals may be sown, and also the propagation of
plants by cuttings may be done rather better now than in January,
for instructions in such matters, see chapter on Propagation.

FRUIT-GARDEN. — But little can be done in most of the northern
states as yet, and in sections where there is no frost in the ground,
it is likely to be too wet to work, but in many southern states this
will be the best month for planting fruit-trees and plants of all
kinds, particularly strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, pear and
apple, while grape-vines will do quite a month later. One of the
greatest wants in many parts of the south is reliable nurseries,
where such things can be procured, and as all such plants are at
this season frozen solid in nurseries at the north, orders for such
things cannot usually be shipped before April ; still though some-
thing may be lost by this circumstance, if proper attention is given
to planting, watering, and shading, (when practicable), good re-

236 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE.

suits may be obtained, as it is always better to take plants of any
kind from a cold climate to a hot one, than from a hot to a cold.
VEGETABLE GARDEN. — Horse manure, leaves from the woods, or
refuse hops from the breweries, when they can be obtained, may
be got together towards the latter part of the month and mixed
and turned to get " sweetened " preparatory to forming hot-beds ;
for detailed instructions see article on hot-beds. Manure that is
to be used for the crops should be turned and broken up as fine as
possible, for it should be known that the more completely manure
of any kind can be mixed with the soil, the better will be the crop,
and of course if it is dug or plowed-in hi large unbroken lumps, it
cannot be properly commingled.

MARCH.

GREENHOUSE AND FLOWER-GARDEN.— Brighter sunshine and
longer days will now begin to show their effects by a rapid growth
of plants in the greenhouse, and also in those of the parlor or
window garden ; examine all plants that are growing vigorously
and are healthy, and if the roots have struck to the sides of the
pot and matted the " ball " of earth, then they must be shifted into
larger sized pots ; if this is long neglected the plants are certain to
suffer in consequence ; for details of operations see chapter on
Potting. The plants propagated last month may now need shift-
ing also, and propagation should continue of all plants that are
likely to be wanted. If propagation is put off later, most plants
would not be large enough if needed for bedding purposes in the
flower-garden in summer. The hardier kinds of annuals may now
be sown ; it is best done in boxes, as recommended elsewhere.
Lawns may now be raked off and top-dressed with short manure
or rich garden earth where manure is not obtainable, and on light
soils flower-beds may be dug up so as to forward the work prepar-
atory to the coming of the busy season.

FRUIT-GARDEN. — In light, dry soils planting may be safely done
in many sections, but we again caution the inexperienced not to
get impatient and begin to plant before the ground is dry ; it is
bad to do so even in light sandy soils, but in stiff and clayey ones
it will be utter destruction. Again at this season, although a tree
or plant will receive no injury when its roots are in the soil, should
a frost come after planting, yet that same amount of freezing
would greatly injure the plant if the roots were uncovered and ex-
posed. Thousands of trees and plants fail every year from this

MONTHLY CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. 237

cause ; they are exposed for sale in our markets with no protec-
tion to the roots, and even the experienced purchaser rarely has
sufficient knowledge to be certain whether the roots of a tree have
been injured by being frozen or dried up by the cold winds of
March. It is always best when it can be done, to purchase direct
from the nearest reliable nurserymen ; they well know the import-
ance of having the roots properly protected, while in two cases out
of three the market huckster neither knows nor cares.

VEGETABLE GARDEN. — This is a busy month. Hot-beds must
now be all started, and all the seeds of the hardier vegetables may
be sown in locations where the frost is out and the ground dry,
the list given for southern states in January may now be used at
the north, while for most of the southern states the tender kinds
of vegetables may now be sown and planted, such as egg-plant,
okra, melon, sweet potatoes, squash, tomatoes, potatoes, etc.

APRIL.

GREENHOUSE AND FLOWER-GARDEN. — Plants whether grown
in greenhouse or in windows, will require increased ventilation
and water this month, and as they will now be growing rapidly,
due attention must be paid to shifting into larger pots when neces-
sary, and also increase the space if possible by putting the hardier
sorts out in frames. If plants are crowded at this season in the
greenhouse, they will grow spindling and weak. It is better to
throw away the common or coarser plants if there is not room for
the finer sorts to develop properly. Towards the end of the month
it may be necessary to partially shade the glass of the greenhouse ;
this may be either done by sheeting hung on rollers from the top,
or more simply and cheaply by making a very thin whitewash of
lime ; this may be spattered over the glass very lightly at first, just
to mark the glass with white spots as thick as if a slight shower
should leave the marks of its drops. The wash is to be spattered
on thicker every week or two, as the season advances. The plant-
ing of all kinds of hardy herbaceous plants and shrubs may now
be done in the flower-garden. Bulbs and all tender plants that
have been covered for protection in winter may now be stripped,
and the beds slightly forked and raked. Sow tender annual flower
seeds in boxes.

FRUIT-GARDEN. — Strawberries that have been covered up by
straw or leaves, should now be relieved around the plant, only
leaving the covering between the plants ; see chapter on Strawber-

238 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

ries. Raspberries, grape-vines, etc., that have been laid down may
now be uncovered and tied up to stakes or trellises, and all new
plantations of these and other fruits should now be made.

VEGETABLE GARDEN. — The covering of asparagus, rhubarb,
spinach, etc., should uow be removed, and the beds hoed or dug
lightly. The hardier sorts of vegetable seeds and plants, such as
beets, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, lettuce, onions, parsley, parsnip,
peas, potatoes, radishes, spinach, turnip, etc., should all be sown
or planted by the middle of the month, if the soil is dry and
warm, and in all cases where practicable before the end of the
month, for if these varieties of vegetables are delayed until the hot
weather in May, they will not be so early, and in most cases will
not produce so fine a crop. It is quite a common practice with
many amateurs to delay garden operations of all kinds until May,
but all the hardier sorts of vegetables are likely to be later and
inferior in consequence. Any one expecting to get early cabbage,
lettuce, or radishes, if planting or sowing is delayed until the time
of planting tomato and egg plants hi May, is certain to be disap-
pointed.

MAT.

GREENHOUSE AND FLOWER GARDEN.— The majority of plants
in the greenhouse or window garden should now be in their finest
bloom. Firing may now be entirely dispensed with in the green-
house, though care must yet be exercised in ventilating in the first
part of the month, as we still have cold winds in this section.
By the end of the month all of the plants that are wanted for the
summer decoration of the flower borders may be planted out. In
doing so, when the ball of earth has been completely matted with
roots, it will be better to bruise it slightly between the hands, so
that the water will pass freely through the " ball," as it often hap-
pens that it is so hard and dry as to prevent the water from pene-
trating it, and the growth is impeded in consequence. Water co-
piously after planting if the weather is dry. When the greenhouse
is not to be used during the summer months, camellias, azaleas, and
plants of that character should be set out-doors under partial
shade, but most of the other plants usually kept in the greenhouse
or window garden in winter, may be set in the open border, where
the pots should be plunged to the rkn in ashes or sand, keeping
them slightly apart from each other, to prevent crowding. Where
there are indications that the pot has become filled with roots, the
plant should bo shifted into a size larger just as it is done inside

MONTHLY CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. 239

the greenhouse ; as the plants make growth, they with few excep-
tions should be pinched back to cause a stout and branching
form. Lawns should now be mown and edgings trimmed
nicely, and all flower-beds hoed and raked, for if weeds are not
kept down as they first appear, treble the labor will be required to
eradicate them next month. Annuals that have been sown in the
greenhouse or hot-bed may now be planted out, and seeds of such
sorts as Mignonette, Sweet Alyssum, Phlox Drainmondii, Portu-
laca, etc., etc., may be sown in the borders.

FRUIT-GARDEN. — Where it has not been convenient before, most
of the smaller fruits may yet be planted the first part of the month.
Ply the hoe vigorously to keep down weeds. If any of the nu-
merous varieties of caterpillars, slugs, or worms make their appear-
ance on the young shoots of vines or trees, a free application of
tobacco dust will dislodge most of them. It is best to use it as a
preventive, for if they once get a foothold, the crop may be ruined.

VEGETABLE GARDEN.— Thin out all crops sown last month,
that are now large enough, and hoe deeply all planted crops, such
as cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, etc. Plant out all tender vegeta-
bles, viz : tomatoes, egg and pepper plants, sweet potatoes, etc.
Plant seeds of lima beans, corn, melons, okra, cucumbers, etc., and
succession crops of peas, spinach, lettuce, beans, etc.

JUNE.

GREEEHOUSE AND FLOWER-GARDEN. — The greenhouse may
now be used for hot-house or tropical plants, if such 'are de-
sired during the summer months. It should now be well shaded
and fine specimens of fancy caladiums, dracaanas, palms, ferns,
and such plants as are grown for their beauty of foliage will make
it very attractive. Hyacinths, Tulips, and other spring bulbs may
now be dug up, dried, and placed away for next fall's planting,
and their places filled with such plants as Coleus, Achyranthes,
and the various " white-leaved plants " that are suited for late bed-
ding. Lawns will now require to be mowed weekly in all well-
kept places. It is as much an indication of slovenliness to see a
door-yard that has any pretensions to be called a lawn, with the
grass uncut, as it would be to see a dust begrimed carpet in the
parlor.

FRUIT-GARDEN. — If strawberries have not been mulched with
hay or straw in winter, the cut grass from the lawn is a convenient
thing to place between the rows to keep the fruit from getting

240 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

sanded by dashing rains. Nearly all the small fruits, such as
gooseberries, raspberries, etc., etc., are much improved by having
a mulching of some sort placed around the roots, which should be
done this month.

VEGETABLE GARDEN. — This is usually the busiest month in the
garden, crops mature and have to be gathered, and while doing
so, weeds are apt to steal a march on you, and may destroy entirely
some of your hard work of former months, unless you attack them
in their embryo stage, that is just when breaking through the soil.
A man will hoe and rake over six times the surface of soil when
the weeds are in this stage that he would if weeds were six inches
high, and in this matter more than anything else I know of in
gardening, does a " stitch in time save nine." Beans, peas, beets,
corn, cucumbers, lettuce, etc., may yet be sown for succession
crops, and late plantings of Irish potatoes and sweet potatoes will
yet do well on suitable soils. Tomatoes should be tied up to trel-
lises or stakes, if fine flavored and handsome fruit is desired.

JULY.

GREENHOUSE AND FLOWER-GARDEN. — But little may be said of
the greenhouse this month. Watering, ventilating, and fumigat-
ing, (or the use of tobacco in other forms for destruction of aphis),
must be attended to. Keep the atmosphere of the greenhouse
moist. The plants from the greenhouse that may have been
plunged out-doors, must be watched when they require repotting,
and where the roots have run through the pots, they should also
be occasionally turned round, to break them off, for if this is
not done now, it would seriously injure the plant in fall when
the roots have run through the pot and deep into the soil, as they
often do. Plants such as dahlias, roses, gladioluses, as well as
many herbaceous perennial and annual plants, will now require
staking ; be careful to proportion the size of the stake to that of
the plant, and do riot tie it too tightly. Stakes painted green look
best, and the square are nearly as good as the round ones, and
much cheaper. Carnations and other plants that are throwing up
flower-stems, if wanted to flower in whiter, should be cut back.

FRUIT-GARDEN. — If there are any signs of mildew on the grape-
vine leaves, dust them over with dry sulphur, choosing a still,
warm day. The fruit will now be gathered from the strawberry
vines, and if new beds are to be formed, the system recommended
of layering the plants in small pots is the best ; see Strawberries.

MONTHLY CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. 241

Where apples, pears, peaches, etc., have set fruit thickly, thin out
one-half or two-thirds of the young fruit, as by doing so you will
get at least an equal weight and much finer fruit. The same is
true of grape-vines and all other fruits that have set thickly;
where thinning out is practicable, it will always be beneficial to
practice it.

VEGETABLE GARDEN. — Plants of cabbages, cauliflowers, celery,
and all similar varieties of vegetables wanted for fall or winter use
are best planted this month, though in some sections they will do
if left until next. See directions given under these separate heads.
Sweet corn, beans, cucumbers and lettuce may yet be planted for
late crops, and in some sections ruta-baga turnips for the main
whiter crop. Tomatoes should be kept tied up to stakes or trel-
lises, and sweet potatoes must be hoed so as to prevent the vines
rooting at the joints.

AUGUST.

GREENHOUSE AND FLOWER-GARDEIT. — The instructions for
July apply with but little variation in these departments this
month.

FRUIT-GARDEN. — Strawberries that were planted in spring, and
also those that have fruited will now be making " runners " or
young plants freely. All runners should be kept cut off close to
the old plant, so that the full force of the root is expended in ma-
turing the " crowns" or fruit buds of the next season's crop. If
plants are wanted for fresh plantations, about the required number
can be allowed to run, but should be layered in pots, as recom-
mended under Strawberries. Cut away the old stems of raspber-
ries and blackberries that have borne their fruit, and thin out the
young shoots to three or four canes to each hill or plant, if tied to
stakes and topped when 4 or 5 feet high, they will make stronger
canes for fruiting next year.

VEGETABLE GARDEN.— Planted crops, such as cabbage, cauli-
flower, and celery, should be hoed deeply. We do not recom-
mend the earthing up of celery this month. Onions will in many
sections now be ready for harvesting; this condition will be
known by the tops becoming yellow and falling down ; they are
best dried by placing them in some dry shed hi thin layers. For
sweet potatoes, see directions of last month. Spinach may be
sown for early fall use, but it is yet too early to sow for the winter
crop. Bed-top, White Globe, and Yellow Aberdeen turnips should
11

242 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

now be sown. Ruta-baga turnips sown last month will need
thinning.

SEPTEMBER.

GREENHOUSE AND FLOWER-GARDEN.— Towards the end of the
month in many sections, the more tender plants will require to be
put in the greenhouse, or housed in some way, but be careful to
keep them as cool as possible during the day ; they would be bet-
ter outside yet if it was safe to risk them. Cuttings of all bedding
plants may now be made freely, if wanted for next season, as the
young cuttings rooted in fall make better plants for next spring's
use than the old plants. This is true of what is known as bedding
plants, such as geraniums, fuchsias, verbenas, heliotropes, etc., etc.
But with roses and other plants of a woody nature, the old plants
are usually the best. Holland bulbs, such as hyacinths, tulips,
etc., etc., and most of the varieties of lilies may be planted this
month ; see detailed instructions under Holland Bulbs. Violets
that are wanted for winter will now be growing freely, and the
runners should be trimmed off as recommended for strawberries
last month. Seeds of pansies, daisies, mignonette, sweet alyssum,
candytuft, etc., should now be sown hi the early part of the month.

FRUIT-GARDEN. — New plantations of strawberry plants may
now be made from the runners that have been layered in pots ; the
sooner in the month they are planted, the stronger they will be for
next season ; these plants will soon make runners that must be
trimmed off to throw the strength into the crowns for next season's
fruiting. Attend to raspberries and blackberries as advised last
month, if not then done.

VEGETABLE GARDEN. — Seeds of cabbage, cauliflower, and let-
tuce to raise plants to be placed in cold frames, should be sown in
this latitude from the 10th to the 20th of this month ; the main
crop of spinach or sprouts that is wanted for winter or spring use,
should be sown about same dates. Celery may now have the
earth drawn to it with the hoe preparatory to earthing-up by the
spade. Onions that were not dried and harvested last month,
must be done this, or it will be too late. The early or flat sorts of
turnips may yet be sown the first week of this month.

OCTOBER.

GREENHOUSE AND FLOWER-GARDEN.— In almost all northern
localities, all tender plants yet outside should be got under cover

MONTHLY CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. 243

the early part of this month. Avoid the use of fire heat as
long as possible ; unless the nights become cold enough to chill the
plants inside of the house, they are better without fire heat. When
there is indication that the night is likely to be cold, let down the
sashes that have been raised for ventilation, early in the afternoon,
and thus shut up the heated air until next day. If there is a cold
frame or pit at hand, the hardier sorts of plants, such as roses, car-
nations, camellias, azaleas, etc. , will do better if placed there until
middle of November, than in the ordinary greenhouse. Treated
in this manner they make strong, healthy roots, that enable them
to withstand the forcing process better when placed in the green-
house. Look out for and destroy insects ; see methods already
given. The planting of fall bulbs of all kinds may continue dur-
ing this month. Dahlias, tuberoses, gladiolus, cannas, caladiums,
tigridias, and all tender bulbs or tubers that are planted in spring,
should be taken up before the end of the month, dried and stowed
away in some place free from frost during winter.

FRUIT-GARDEN. — Strawberries that have been layered in pots
may yet be planted this month ; great care should be taken to trim
off runners from early plantings. All kinds of fruit-trees and shrubs
may be set out ; if planting is deferred to the last of the month,
the ground around the roots should be mulched to the thickness of
three or four inches, with leaves, straw, or rough manure, as a
protection to the roots against the frost.

VEGETABLE GARDEN. — This is one of the busiest fall months in
the kitchen garden, celery will now be in full growth, and will re-
quire close attention to earthing-up, and during the last part of the
month, the first lot may be stored away in trenches for winter;
see Celery; beets, carrots, parsnips, squash, sweet potatoes, and all
other roots not designed to be left in the ground during winter,
should be dug by the end of the month. The cabbage, cauliflower,
and lettuce plants from the seed sown about the middle of last
month, should now be pricked out in cold frames. If lettuce is
wanted for winter use, it may be now planted in the greenhouse,
and will be ready for use by Christmas. Rhubarb and asparagus,
if wanted for use in winter, should be taken up in large clumps
and stowed away in pit, frame, shed, or cellar for a month or two,
when it may be taken into the greenhouse and packed closely to-
gether under the stage, and will be fit for use from January to
March, according to the temperature of the house.

£44 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

NOVEMBER.

GREENHOUSE AND FLOWER-GARDEN. —All plants should now
be in-doors; a sharp look-out must be kept for cold snaps.
These often come very unexpectedly in November, and as many
plants are injured by frost in this as there are in the colder
months, when the enemy is more closely watched for. When fire
heat is freely used, be careful to keep up the proper supply of
moisture by syringing, sprinkling the paths, etc. In the flower-
garden nothing is now to be done except to clean off dead stalks
and straw up tender roses, vines, etc., and wherever there is time,
to dig up and rake the borders, as it will greatly facilitate
spring work. All beds where hyacinths or other fall bulbs have
been planted, had better be covered with rough litter or leaves
to the depth of two or three inches. If short, thoroughly de-
cayed manure can be spared, a good sprinkling spread over the
lawn will help it to a finer growth in spring.

FRUIT-GARDEN. — In cold sections the hay or straw mulching
recommended in the chapter on the Strawberry may be put on
during the last of this month. Grape-vines and fruit-trees gener-
ally should be pruned, and if wood of the vine is wanted for cut-
tings, or cions of fruit-trees for grafts, they should be tied in small
neat bunches and buried in the ground until spring.

VEGETABLE GARDEN. — All celery that is to be stored for
winter use, should be put away before the end of the month in all
places north of Richmond, Va. ; south of that it may be left in
most places hi the rows where grown if covered up. Directions
for storing celery for whiter are given under Celery. The
stalks of asparagus beds should be cut over, and as asparagus some-
times becomes a weed, it is better to burn the stems if there are
berries on them. Spread a heavy dressing of rough manure three
or four inches thick on the beds. All roots that are yet in the
ground and not designed to be left there all winter, must be dug
up in this latitude before the middle of the month, or they may be
frozen in until spring ; onions, spinach, sprouts, cabbage, or lettuce
plants that are outside should be covered with two or three inches
of leaves, salt hay, or straw, to protect during winter. Cabbages
that have headed may be usually preserved against injury by frost
until the middle of next month, by simply pulling them up and
packing them close together in a dry spot in the open field with
the heads down, and roots up ; on the approach of cold weather in
December, they should be covered up with leaves as high as the tops

MONTHLY CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. 245

of the roots, or if the soil is light, it may be thrown over them if
leaves are not convenient; cabbages so packed will keep until
March, if the covering has not been put on too early. Whenever
it is practicable, all empty ground should be dug or plowed this
month, trenching or subsoiling whenever time will permit. All
such operations when performed in the fall, not only benefit the
soil, but greatly facilitate work at the hurried season in the spring.
The cold frames where cabbage, lettuce, or cauliflower plants have
been planted will now require regular ventilation by lifting up the
sashes in warm days, and on the approach of very cold weather,
straw mats or shutters would be a great protection to the plants ;
for the cauliflower this protection is absolutely necessary here.

DECEMBER.

GREENHOUSE AND FLOWER-GARDEN. — We are now fairly into
whiter, and close attention must be given to protecting all
tender plants. It is one of the commonest complaints, especially
from ladies, that their plants " looked so nice until one cold night
in December " defeated the whole care of the year by killing or
wounding hundreds of the cherished favorites of the greenhouse
or window garden. There is no rule but vigilance, and as extra
strong fires will be kept up, look out again nightly for all combus-
tible matter near the flue or chimney. If you find the thermom-
eter in the greenhouse or parlor where your plants are kept, falling
down to 34 or 35 degrees, the chances are that there will be frost
in the house ; the best protection in such cases is either to set the
plants under the benches or on the walk if in the greenhouse, or
move them from the cold point if in the parlor; if the plants
are low and uniform in hight, covering them with paper or
sheeting will usually save them from injury even if the thermom-
eter falls to 26 or 28 degrees. Another plan is to dash water on
the pipes or flue in the greenhouse on cold nights, the steam arises
to the glass, freezes there, and stops up all crevices. All mulching,
strawing up, or other modes of protecting against frost in use in
the flower-garden, must be finished this month.

FRUIT-GARDEN.— Grape-vines, raspberries, etc., hi sections where
protection from severe frost is of advantage, should be attended
to this month, by laying them down as near the ground as possi-
ble, and covering them with rough litter or leaves, or with a few
inches of soil.

VEGETABLE GARDEN.— The final covering of celery in trenches,

246 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE.

or roots in pits ; the spinach crop in ground, or any other article
in need of protection, must have it done before the end of this
month. Manure and compost heaps should now be forwarded as
rapidly as possible, and turned and mixed so as to be hi proper
condition for spring. Snow that accumulates on cold frames or
other glass structures, should be removed, particularly if the soil
that the glass covers was not frozen before the snow fell ; if frozen,
it may remain on the sashes longer, for the plants if frozen are, of
course dormaot, and would not be injured by being deprived of
light for eight or ten days.

INDEX.

Angle Worm 119

Annual Flowers 112

Annual Flowers, List of 112

Ants 118

Aphis, Destroying 64

Aphis, Ground or Blue 117

Apple 170

Apple, Varieties of 171

Apricot 170

Apricot, Varieties of 170

Artichoke, Globe 180

Artichoke, Jerusalem 181

Asparagus 178

Basket Balloon Frame 73

Basket, Wire 73

Baskets, Hanging 72

Bean, Bush 181

Bean, Lima 182

Bean, Pole 182

Bedding, " Carpet Style "of, 31

Beet 183

Blackberry 161

Blackberry, Varieties of 162

Bone-Dust 22

Borecole or Kale 184

Boxes for Seeds ; 40

Broccoli 185

Brussels Sprouts 186

Budding 47-56

Bulbs, Fall or Holland 36

Bulbs in Moss 37

Bulbs in Pots 36-37

Bulbs, Tropical 58

Cabbage 189

Caladiums, Growing 58

Camellias, Grafting 52-55

Camellias, Propagating 44

Carrot 190

Cauliflower 187

Celeriac 195

Celery 191

Cellar and Greenhouse Combined. . 99
Centaureas, Propagating 39

247

Chard, Swiss 21?

Cherry 165

Cherry, Varieties of 166

Chives 196

Climbers, List of Hardy 106

Cordon Training of Pear Trees — 172

Corn 196

Corn Salad 196

Cress 196

Cress, Indian 207

Cress, Water 196

Crocuses, Planting 36

Cucumber 197

Currants 162

Currants, Varieties of 163

Cuttings, Propagating Plants by . . . 43

Cuttings, Proper Condition of 43

Cyclamen, Propagating 39

Designs for Gardens.. 27

Double Flue 94

Drain, Board 12

Drain for Eoad-bed 16

Drain, Bubble 11

Drain Tile 11

Driveway 15

Drive, Width of 15

Egg Plant 198

Endive 199

Ferneries 83

Fertilizers, Adulteration of 20

Fertilizers, Concentrated 18

Fertilizers, Cost of 19

Fertilizers, Special 21

Figs 164

Figs, Varieties of 165

Flowers, Annual 60

Flowers for Shady Spots 1 14

Flowers, Law of Color in 128

Flower-Bed, Ornamental 35

Flower-Bed, Scroll-Pattern for 34

Flower-Beds, Carpet Style of 33

Flower-Beds, Designs for 31

Flower-Stands 81

248

GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

Flue, Double 94

Flue, Heating by 93

Garden, Drainage of 10

Garden, Preparation of Ground for. 13

Garden, Protection by Hedges 10

Garden, Soil and Location 9

Garden, Vegetable 177

Garden Walks 14

Gardens, Designs for 25

Gardening, Cottage 175

Gardening, Parlor 77

Gardening, Window 75

Garlic 200

Glasses for Hyacinths 38

Glazing 145

Gooseberry 168

Gooseberry, Varieties of 164

Graft,Side 54

Graft,Whip 64

Grafting 47_53

Grafting-Wax 55

Grape Cuttings 143

Grapes, Hardy 133

Grapes, Pruning and Training. ... 139

Grapes, Varieties of 143

Grapery 90

Grapery, Cold 144

Grapery, Hot-House 150

Grapery, Lean-to 146

Grasses, Ornamental Ill

Grass-Seed for Lawn 24

Grass-Seed, Mixing Oats with 25

Greenhouse and Cellar Combined.. 101
Greenhouse Attached to Dwellings. 87

Greenhouse, Detached 90

Greenhouse Plants, List of. 79

" Green Fly," Killing 64

Guano, How to Use 18

Guano, Mixing with Earth 18

Guano, Peruvian 22

Guano, Quantity to Apply 19

Hanging-Baskets, Filling 74

" Hay-Seed " for Lawn 24

Heating by Double Flues . 94

Heating by Hot Water 95

Hedges for Protecting Gardens 10

Herbaceous Perennials, Hardy 107

Herbaceous Perennials, Hardy, List

of 109

Herbs, Sweet 199

Horseradish 200

Hot-Beds 102

Hot-Beds, Ventilating 103

Hot-House or Forcing Grapery 150

Hot-House Plants, List of 80

House, Approach to 15

Hyacinths in Glasses 33

Hyacinths, Planting 35

Implements, Garden 223

Digging Fork 224

Draw Hoe 225

Excelsior Pump 230

Excelsior Weeding-Hook 231

Flower Gatherers 226

Garden Roller.. 227

Garden Syringe 229

Garden Trowel 226

Grape Scissors 226

Grass Edging Knife 228

Hand-Glasses 231

Hand-Pruning Shears 229

Hedge Shears 229

Ladies Garden Tools. 231

Lawn Mowers 227

Lawn Scythes 226

Manure Fork - 224

Noyes1 Hand-Weeder 231

Pole-Pruning Shears 229

Prong Hoe 225

Pruning and Budding Knives226

Pruning Saw 226

Push Hoe 225

Rake 227

Reel and Line 225

Shovel 224

Sickle 228

Sidney Seed-Sower 230

Spade 224

Step-Ladders 231

Trellises 232

Watering-Pot 230

Wheelbarrow 223

Wooden Lawn Rake 227

Insects 115

Angle Worm 119

Ants 118

Brown and White Scale 119

Green Fly 116

Ground or Blue Aphis 117

Mealy Bug 65,118

Red Spider. 118

Rose Bug 116

Rose Slug 116

Thrips 119

Instructions, General 222

Jardinieres .82

INDEX.

249

Kohlrabi 201

Lath Screens 126

Lawn 22

Lawn, Grass-Seed for 24

Lawn, Sodding a 23

Lawns, Planting 30

Lawn-Mowers 23

Layering, Propagation by 46

Leek 201

Lettuce 202

Lily of the Valley, Forcing 84

Location of Garden 9

Manures 16

Martynia 202

Mealy Bug 65

Mealy Bug, Destroying 65

Melon, Musk 202

Melon, Water 20-3

Mildew 120

Mulching 122

Mushrooms .. 204

Mustard..... 204

Narcissuses, Planting 36

Nasturtium 207

Nectarines 169

Nectarines, Varieties of 169

Oats with Grass Seed 25

Okra 207

Onions 208

Parsley 208

Parsnips 209

Pea 209

Peach 168

Peach, Varieties of 168

Pears 171

Pears, Varieties of 172

Pear-Trees, Cordon-Trained 172

Pepper 211

Pepper Grass 196

Pit, Sunken 98

Pits without Artificial Heat 98

Plant Protector, Bryants' 197

Plants for Summer Decoration 69

Plants for Wardian Cases 83

Plants, Frozen 121

Plants, Growing from Cuttings 42

Plants, Growing from Seeds 39

Plants, Hot-House 63

Plants in Eooms 124

Plants, Potting 60

Plants, Potting from the Open

Ground 78

Plants, Temperature for 80

Plants, Unhealthy 67

Plants, Winter Flowering 62

Planting in Circles x. 31-53

Planting Flower-Beds 30

Plant-Stand, Folding 81

Plum 166

Plum, Varieties of 167

Potato 211

Potato, Sweet 219

Pots, Draining 67

Pots for Plants 61

Pots for Plants, Size of 60

Pots, "Plunging" 79

Potting Plants 60

Propagation by Layering 40

Propagating, " Saucer System " of. 44

Propagating Woody Plants 44

Propagating by Cuttings 43

Propagating by Seeds 39

Pruning for Shape 187

Pruning Grape-vines 141

Pruning Hot-House Grapes 148

Pruning, Spur 140

Pumpkin 211

Quince 165

Quince, Varieties of 165

Radish 212

Raspberry 158

Raspberry, Varieties of 160

Raspberries, Black Cap 161

Raspberries, Black Caps, Varieties

of 161

Red Spider 65

Re-potting Plants 61

Rhubarb 212

Road Drain 16

Rose Bug 116

Rose Slug 116

Roses, Propagating 44

Salsify 213

Salsify, Black 214

Saucers for Pots 81

Scale, Brown and White 119

Scorzonera 214

Screens for Plants 126

Sea Kale 215

Seeds, Tropical 59

Seeds, Annual 112

Seeds, Propagation of Plants from. 39

Seedlings, Damping off 41

Shading 125

Shallots ..215

Shoots, "Blind" - .. 44

250

GARDENING FOR PLEASURE.

Shrubs, Lists of 104

Smoke-flue 93

Soil for Seeds 40

Soil, Potting 60

Spinach 216

Spinach, New Zealand 217

Spinach, Substitutes for 217

Squash 218

Strawberry, Forcing 157

Strawberry, Growing 153

Strawberry Runners in Pots 154

Strawberry, Varieties of 157

Sweet Potato 219

Thrips 119

Tobacco- Water for Plants 64

Tomato 221

Tomato Seeds, Starting 59

Trees, List of Evergreen 106

Trees, Pruning Fruit 133

Tulips, Planting 36

Turnips 221

Walks, Garden 14

Wardian Cases 82

Wash for Glass 127

Watering Potted Plants 62

Window Box 67

Worm, Angle 119

Monthly Calendar of Operations. . .234

January 234

February "••....235

March 236

April 237

May 238

June 339

July 240

August 241

September 242

October 242

November 244

December 245

GARDENING FOR PROFIT:

A GUIDE TO THE SUCCESSFUL CULTIVATION OF THE

MARKET AND FAMILY GARDEN.

BY PETER HENDERSON.

This work has had a constant and remarkable sale ever since it was issued, and
the later enlarged and revised edition is as well received as was the first. It was
the first work on Market Gardening ever published in this country. Its author is
well known as a market gardener of many years1 successful experience. In this
work he has recorded this experience, and given without reservation, the methods
necessary to the profitable culture of the

It is a work for which there was an urgent demand before its issue, and one
which commends itself, not only to those who grow vegetables for sale, but to the
cultivator of the

to whom it presents methods quite different from the old ones generally practiced.
It i s an ORIGINAL AND PURELY AMERICAN work, and not made up as books on gar-
dening too often are, by quotations from foreign authors.

Every thing is made perfectly plain, and the subject treated in all its details,
from the selection of the soil to preparing the products for market.

CONTENTS.

Men fitted for the Business of Gardening.

The Amount of Capital Required, and

"Working Force per Acre.

Profits of Market Gardening.

Location, Situation, and Laying Out.

Soils, Drainage, and Preparation.

Manures, Implements.

"Uses and Management of Cold Frames.

Formation and Management of Hot-beds.

Forcing Pits or Greenhouses.

Seeds and Seed Raising.

How, "When, and "Where to Sow Seeds.

Transplanting Insects.

Packing of Vegetables for Shipping.

Preservation of Vegetables in "Winter.

Vegetables, their Varieties and Cultivation.

In the last chapter, the most valuable kinds are described, and tho culture
proper to each is given in detail.

Sent post-paid, price $I.5O.
ORANGE JTTDD COMPANY, 751 Broadway, New-York;

PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE;

A Gkdde to the Successful Propagation and Cultivation

OF

FLORISTS' PLANTS.'

Bv PETEK HENDERSON, BERGEN Cm, N. J.,

ATTTHOB Or *48UOKNINO FOB PBOTIT."

MR. HENDERSON is known as the largest Commercial Florist
m the country. In the present work he gives a fall account of hu
modes of propagation and cultivation. It is adapted to the want*
of the amateur, as well as the professional grower.

The eoope of the work may be judged from the following

TABLE Of CONTENTS.

Aspect asd Soil.

Laying out Lawn and Flow-
er Gardens.

Designs for Flower Gardens.

Planting of Flower Beds.

Soils for Potting.

Temperature and Moisture.

The Potting of Plants.

CDld Frames— Winter Pro-
tection.

Construction of Hot-Beds.

Greenhouse Structures.

Modes of Heating.

Propagation by Seeds.

Propagation by Cuttings.

l*ropagation of Lilies.

Uulture of the Rose.

Culture of the Verbena.

Onltnre of the rnberose

Orchid Culture.
Holland Bulbs.
Cape Bulbs.

Winter-Flowering Plants.
Construction of Bouquets.
Hanging Baskets.
Window Gardening.
Rock-Work.
Insects.

Nature's Law of Colors.
Packing Plants.
Plants by Mail
Profits of Floriculture.
Soft- Wooded Plants.
Annrals.

Hardy Herbaceous Plants.
Greenhouse Plants.
Diary of Operations for each
Day of the Year.

Beautifully Illustrated. Sent post-paid. Price, $1,50,

ORANGE JUDD COMPANY,

751 Broadway, New-York.

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